We just put in a new Katech ported oil pump. Obviously the pump is dry. How long does it take to prime up to get some oil pressure back? We've revved it and got to about 25PSI, but it'll drop right back down. Any ideas on how long it takes before it's fully primed up?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong>We just put in a new Katech ported oil pump.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I just got the car home, about a 10 mile drive. The pressure will stay at 20-30 psi if I keep the rpms above 1500, but if I let it drop to idle, the oil pressure goes down below 10psi.

Any ideas? I'm going to call Katech tomorrow, and see if they can think of anything.

Thanks

 

Did you take the o-ring out of the old pump and install it in the new one?

 

When you put the pump on, you can actually rip that o-ring. I did it, and it will never make any oil pressure. Ask Glen98zm6 about this.

 

My installer accidently ripped the oring when installing my ARE oil pump. He put in two orings to make sure it sealed properly. Now I have 50-75psi.

Kyung

 

Just rember that the kaytech oil pump isnt gonna incresse pressure like the other ones do. Kaytech does not shim the oil pumps. Its just a stock ported oil pump. I kind of wished I would of went with a MTI or ARE pump.

ALbert

 

You tore the rubber O-ring. I did a few oil pump installs and never had an issue until recently. It seems the o-ring will be less likely to be damaged if you put it on the pickup snout, rather than put it in the oil pump itself (ie, put the rubber on the *****, not the vagina).

The symptom you are describing is exactly what happens when you have a bad oil pump o-ring on an ls1.

 

The o-ring remained on the pickup tube when I removed the old oil pump. It looked ok, no splits or cracks in it. I'm pretty sure that we can check it out again. On a C5 it's a pain in the *** to get in there. Nice thinking on the General's part, lets put the rack in front of the crank bolt! Thanks for the info so far.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong>The o-ring remained on the pickup tube when I removed the old oil pump. It looked ok, no splits or cracks in it. I'm pretty sure that we can check it out again. On a C5 it's a pain in the *** to get in there. Nice thinking on the General's part, lets put the rack in front of the crank bolt! Thanks for the info so far.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Wait, so is this Miles' car or your car? Can you describe your oil pressure alittle more? Like what does it do? I may be in the same situation as you, take a look at my thread I just started this morning as well. https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...c;f=1;t=009061

 

It's Miles car. I helped him do the install at my place.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong> On a C5 it's a pain in the *** to get in there. Nice thinking on the General's part, lets put the rack in front of the crank bolt! Thanks for the info so far.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No need to tell me, I put my C5 together, fired it all up, and boom..10psi oil pressure. I WAS PISSED. It took me only 2 hours to get back to the point the oil pump was off tho, its a lot easier the second time, I promise. In my case it was the O-ring.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong> On a C5 it's a pain in the *** to get in there. Nice thinking on the General's part, lets put the rack in front of the crank bolt! Thanks for the info so far.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No need to tell me, I put my C5 together, fired it all up, and boom..10psi oil pressure. I WAS PISSED. It took me only 2 hours to get back to the point the oil pump was off tho, its a lot easier the second time, I promise. In my case it was the O-ring.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">2 hours? Do you have any quick instructions on how to get the steering rack out of the way? I think I'm going to check out my o-ring as well. What did your o-ring look like? Was it pinched or ripped? What was your oil pressure at when driving around with the bad o-ring?

<small>[ November 17, 2002, 08:36 PM: Message edited by: akw408 ]</small>

 

Here's some general instructions for you. Plan about 2-3 hours if you have to tear the radiator out and all that stuff. I received these instructions from another individual yesterday.

Removing the rack is not as hard as some make it out to be. You first thing you need to do is pull the car into the garage dead straight. Then make sure the steering wheel is locked and mark the steering rack shaft. The steering column has a sensor on it that tells the PCM the angle of steering rotation. If this sensor becomes out of sync you will get PCM codes.
1) Disconnect the 13mm bolt that holds the steering shaft to the steering rack.
2) Remove the 18mm nuts that hold the tie rods.
3) Reaching down from the top side (drivers side) you can disconnect the two 18mm nuts that fasten the lines to the rack. Make sure you use a tubing wrench.
4) Remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the power steering cooler to the sub frame.
5) Remove the four 13mm bolts and the large 18mm bolt from the drivers side of the rack unit.
6) Remove the other 18mm bolt on the passenger side.
7) Disconnect the connector for the Magna-steer.
8) Know suppport the car under the frame behind the front wheels so the front craddle can be slightly lowered.
9) You will have to drop the two straps that hold the sway bar into place.
10) Now loosen the four nuts that hold the craddle to the frame.
11) I then take a pry bar and pry down the drivers side corner of the craddle and stuff another large screw driver in there to keep it held down aprox. 3/8".
12) You may have to pry up on the rack on the passenger side to get it out of it's mounting place.
13) Once lifter out the rack should be free. Start feeding it out towards the drivers side wheel well.
14) It will take a little twisting to get it out past a few brake lines and to get it to clear between the craddle and frame.
I usually do it by myself. Another person in the engine compartment and one in the drivers wheel well can greatly speed up the removal and reinstall. Its too bad we

 

I have the whole proceedure documented and photographed, with labelled photos on my hardrive. It'll be up on ls1tech.com/howto within the next couple of days. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Its a 1-2 hour process once you've done it before.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by derty:
<strong>
8) Know suppport the car under the frame behind the front wheels so the front craddle can be slightly lowered.
10) Now loosen the four nuts that hold the craddle to the frame.
11) I then take a pry bar and pry down the drivers side corner of the craddle and stuff another large screw driver in there to keep it held down aprox. 3/8".
13) Once lifter out the rack should be free. Start feeding it out towards the drivers side wheel well.
14) It will take a little twisting to get it out past a few brake lines and to get it to clear between the craddle and frame.
I usually do it by myself. Another person in the engine compartment and one in the drivers wheel well can greatly speed up the removal and reinstall. Its too bad we</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Also, all those steps are not necisary with my method. The cradle does not need to be dropped at all. The rack goes out the passenger side the way I do it, and the cradle/crossmember stay 100% in place, no need to losen it or support the engine.

 

We couldn't get the steering box to rotate enough around the power steering pump. This was actually way easier than trying to get it to rotate through there. No matter what we did it wouldn't go out the passenger side. I'd be interested to see what you've got, because if it works I'd try it!

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Just rember that the kaytech oil pump isnt gonna incresse pressure like the other ones do. Kaytech does not shim the oil pumps. Its just a stock ported oil pump. I kind of wished I would of went with a MTI or ARE pump. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">It does flow more volume and my Katech pump registers 70+ PSI at WOT.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by jmX:
<strong>I have the whole proceedure documented and photographed, with labelled photos on my hardrive. It'll be up on ls1tech.com/howto within the next couple of days. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Its a 1-2 hour process once you've done it before.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Looking forward to your seeing procedure. Even if you're not done with the whole thing, I'd be more than happy to try it. I'd really like to get this low oil pressure issue solved.