catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

well i decided to cruise around some today since the weather was nice, car drove perfect. until it was time to go to work

im taking a right outa my street and i hear a loud snap/clunk in the rear of the car and the whole thing shuttered but kept driving so i pulled over and checked my lugs/axels etc and nothing.

does it again and i know exactly whats wrong...my 10 bolt rearend is taking a **** on me.

our mechanic friend came over and we are for sure its a problem within the rearend..could be somethin simple like with teh posi or it might be time to swap out for a new moser 12 bolt

any suggestions, 9'' or 12 bolt. any ideas identifying the problem?

bryced1

sucks man, youll get it fixed and back up and runnin though.

TryingT/A

iTrader: (5)

go for the 9", spending money on the 10 bolt means spending money on it later on.

keliente

iTrader: (22)

Aww, and you didn't even get to break it in a cool way, like while drag racing. I bet that you have a torsen diff and it finally just pooped out on you. You could grab a diff from a used fbody and call it a day for now, or think about upgrading to a 12 bolt/9 inch.

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, I would fix the stock rear and go to the track and intentionaly break it, much more gratifing that way.

I dont have either 12 bolt or 9" in my street car but of the two I reccomend the 9" if you plan on changing the gear ratio more than once because having a removable center section makes for easier gear swaps where youdont have to drop off the whole car or yank the entire axle out

ChocoTaco369

by the dyno numbers in your sig, it's pretty safe to say you're an M6. simple, if you have traction control (4 channel ABS), get the 9 inch rear. if you don't have traction control (3 channel ABS), get the 12-bolt. this is assuming you only drive on the street. if you hit the track a lot, then get the 9 inch regardless. an M6 CAN break the 12-bolt, but it takes a lot of power and track use from what i hear. the 9 inch is nearly bulletproof. nearly.

screw the 10-bolt. if you were an automatic i'd say fix it, but if you're a manual you'll break it again.

NVR KNO

damn dude, that sucks. sorry to hear. your first real mod i guess is going to have to be a rear end. not bad, just means you can beat on the car more and not worry about it breaking. i just got done putting kyles, NA$TY-TA, 12 bolt in my car. either way you go you'll be happy. we still need to get together sometime and get those pics with you me n travis.

catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE:

today i took off the differential cover and insspected it.

first thing i noticed was a huge clump of metal shaving collecting on the magnet

rotated the gears some and we isolated the problem

a tooth on the spider gear snapped off when i took the turn, flung around and scratched the ring and pinion gears up to where they will make lots of noise if ran.

sooo

im gonna need a new posi unit.........any suggestions on a good one that will hold to some big power?

and i need a new set of ring and pinion: more than likely going with 4.10s or 3.73s

let me know some suggestions

anyone with a m6 fbody with 3.73s or 4.10s wanna let me get a feel for 'em

catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

heck yea, we may not have the fastest but id put money that they are the cleanest.

im usually open whenever, just pm me on vadriven when you want

99zman

iTrader: (23)

i soon will be putting in 4:10's and im hopping for the best.. if you need another diff you can get a stocker at the junkyard or summit sells a new trutrac diff the 7.5 for $365 or you can go to neweraperformance wich is a sponsor here and he sells a kit with a new torsen diff and he also just sell the aubrn diff for $410. its your call be people are gonna tell you its not going to hold big power. its really a luck of the draw if it holds or not and depends on you driving stlye. hope this helps ya.

Element

iTrader: (5)

4.10s in an M6 car is fun - feels like they should have been in there stock. Probably get some whine out of them, and they're easier to break, but then isn't everything in the 10 bolt easy to break?

00slowredz

if i had an m6, i'd have at least 4.10s....they just go really good with 6 gears man. i've rode in a car with 4.30's and also 4.56's and just a suggestion but i probably wouldnt go higher then 4.30's

bryced1

updates man, you get the fish runnin yet?

Zepher

A good posi, gears, bearings, and install kit are going to run you about $800 or so + labor if you need a shop to do it. I would spring for a stronger rear, Dana 60, 9" or 12 bolt, in that order.

catfSSh

iTrader: (1)

i get it back tommorow, then tuesday it goes to micar for the new hood and front fascia



i had to get a set of bfg kdw mounted on my rims so we had to run a spare for a few miles. i knew it would mess up something but my dad insisted it wouldnt so we made a deal that if it did, hed pay for repairs.

well... it did and thats why i couldnt say lets spend 2500 for a new rearend instead of 1480 for new posi/gears

SMOKKINU

iTrader: (4)

So let me get this straight, you spent more then half of the cost of a Strange S60 (The cheapest and the strongest of the 3 options for an FBody) on rebuilding your 10 bolt that is garunteed to break yet again....so in the end, by the time you DO decide to get a upgraded rearend, like a Strange S60, you'll have spent almost $4,000 on your rearend alone....


where as if you had done it now, you would have spent $2,400 tops. that INCLUDES installation....less if you do it yourself, which isnt that hard to do since the rear comes in a cratem, ready to bolt in. 3 hr job...easy.


goodjob.

Proud2bSS

iTrader: (2)

Ed Zachary!

My early mopars were so nice for that!!!