Valve train has broken apart TWICE in less than 800 miles!
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Valve train has broken apart TWICE in less than 800 miles!
I need some ideas on why my valvetrain is repeatedly breaking. I am not racing the engine, nor have I even dynoed it yet; in fact, I haven't even switched to synthetic.
The motor is a solid roller stroker LT4 engine that was built by a reputable shop. No expense has been spared with this engine, it has the best of everything.
After a few hundred miles, the valve train was making quite a bit of noise. I removed the valve covers and discovered that two rocker arms were destroyed with metal pieces EVERYWHERE. I drained the oil and meticulously removed all visible metal fragments. The engine builder said he "discovered" what happened (something to do with the rocker arms themselves?) and would replace the rockers with newer, stronger rockers and obviously re-adjust the valve train. He even installed new push rods.
I picked the vehicle up and it drove fine for a little over 100 miles. Yesterday, I'm on the freeway cruising at only 60 mph, and the valvetrain begins to get slightly louder, like it did when I first had this issue. I thought to myself not again, I'll have to remove the valve covers and see if anything visibly wrong. Within a couple of minutes, my engine all of the sudden sounded like a jack hammer was being operated under the hood. It was back firing and missing and the car lost power and died.
After I got the car home with a tow truck, I removed the valve covers and discovered that cylinder #8 was missing a lash cap. The rocker was also so loose, that I could put the lash cap back on AND fit a pencil in between the cap and the roller tip. Cylinder #3 was really bad, the rocker arm was sideways and the pushrod was bent approximately at a 70 degree angle coming out the head! On cylinder #5, the rocker arm was just laying in there as if it was detached (you can spin the rocker around) and the push rod isn't even touching it; the lash cap was missing on this spring as well.
I'm wondering what the problem is. This street/strip motor was built with the express instruction that daily driveability is required.
Any thoughts? I'll answer the questions as best as I can regarding component information.
The motor is a solid roller stroker LT4 engine that was built by a reputable shop. No expense has been spared with this engine, it has the best of everything.
After a few hundred miles, the valve train was making quite a bit of noise. I removed the valve covers and discovered that two rocker arms were destroyed with metal pieces EVERYWHERE. I drained the oil and meticulously removed all visible metal fragments. The engine builder said he "discovered" what happened (something to do with the rocker arms themselves?) and would replace the rockers with newer, stronger rockers and obviously re-adjust the valve train. He even installed new push rods.
I picked the vehicle up and it drove fine for a little over 100 miles. Yesterday, I'm on the freeway cruising at only 60 mph, and the valvetrain begins to get slightly louder, like it did when I first had this issue. I thought to myself not again, I'll have to remove the valve covers and see if anything visibly wrong. Within a couple of minutes, my engine all of the sudden sounded like a jack hammer was being operated under the hood. It was back firing and missing and the car lost power and died.
After I got the car home with a tow truck, I removed the valve covers and discovered that cylinder #8 was missing a lash cap. The rocker was also so loose, that I could put the lash cap back on AND fit a pencil in between the cap and the roller tip. Cylinder #3 was really bad, the rocker arm was sideways and the pushrod was bent approximately at a 70 degree angle coming out the head! On cylinder #5, the rocker arm was just laying in there as if it was detached (you can spin the rocker around) and the push rod isn't even touching it; the lash cap was missing on this spring as well.
I'm wondering what the problem is. This street/strip motor was built with the express instruction that daily driveability is required.
Any thoughts? I'll answer the questions as best as I can regarding component information.
Last edited by Built LT1; 11-08-2007 at 03:59 PM.
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The engine builder himself built and set up everything. I don't know the push rod length or the brand of rockers. However, the rockers and pushrods have been replaced with new ones, the difference now is that the second set of rockers are made of steel instead of aluminum.
I don't know whether they're self-aligning or not. I think they do have guide plates. I have recently found out that the stock springs (the ones that come with AFR 210 heads) were left on instead of the K-Motion; apparently they had ample spring pressure for the custom solid cam?
Last edited by Built LT1; 11-09-2007 at 10:04 PM.
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#9
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Seems like the valvetrain geometry is out of wack. Pushrods might be too short or something to that effect. Need to make sure you have guide plates with stud mount rockers, or it will **** the rockers up like what you're talking about. Might want to consider taking it to someone that knows what they are doing!
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might have something to do with the valve springs. If the valves are floatting, the pistons hit the valves and boom **** gets broken..IE push rods, rocker arms, valves..just a shot in the dark
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It's not that those springs aren't good for most of the off the shelf grind cams out there, but I was totally surprised that springs on a set of race readies would handle a solid roller cam that has almost .650 lift and over 250 (exhaust side) degrees of duration at .050.???
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Yes.
I'm not sure if makes a difference from a mechanical aspect, but as far as things unique to the LT1/4 engine, he made a few mistakes. For example, installing the opti-spark incorrectly, and ordering factory LT1 intake gaskets (read way too small) instead of the GM performance parts LT4 "race" intake gaskets, which were much larger and fit fine.
I'm not sure if makes a difference from a mechanical aspect, but as far as things unique to the LT1/4 engine, he made a few mistakes. For example, installing the opti-spark incorrectly, and ordering factory LT1 intake gaskets (read way too small) instead of the GM performance parts LT4 "race" intake gaskets, which were much larger and fit fine.
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The engine builder has the car now. He's a stand up guy and is going to make it right. Hopefully, he'll ascertain the cause and get the engine back to where it should be.
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What the hell happend to your High dollar K-Motion valve springs?
It sounds like your builder is trying to pull a fast one. You should get your **** and
run. If I paid for something to be on my motor, and I get it back and the stock **** is still on it, I would be ******* mad. You should find a new shop!
Phill
Don't get fucked for a 3rd time
It sounds like your builder is trying to pull a fast one. You should get your **** and
run. If I paid for something to be on my motor, and I get it back and the stock **** is still on it, I would be ******* mad. You should find a new shop!
Phill
Don't get fucked for a 3rd time
Last edited by onephatZ28; 11-14-2007 at 04:33 PM.
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He's been honest with everything so far.
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It just suck because you did not have this much trouble with the engine that Chuck built
you, and you got that engine hot alot of times.You just had alot of trouble with the trans.
you, and you got that engine hot alot of times.You just had alot of trouble with the trans.