leds gone wrong in DRL's
 

I recently bought some LEDS for my DRL's. I also bought and adjustable flasher made by Keep it Clean as outlined in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...-problems.html. But upon installing the LEDS, I realized I didnt need the flasher at all as they blinked normally and at the right speed.

So all was fine for awhile. Everything worked. But now, #1 my DRLS dont come on at all.
#2, when I turn my markers on, only the passenger side lights up continously.
#3, Both still blink! Although the drivers side acts burnt out when markers are turned on, it still blinks when putting the left turn signal on

The bulbs I purchased are these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3157-...item58846f76a3

Whats going on? Bad bulb? Fuse blown? Does the flasher have to be installed after all? Do the these bulbs by any chance draw too much power?

no if anything they dont draw enough power, thats why when people have leds their lights blink fast cause the comp thinks its not gettin the right amount of power or the light it burned out... im not sure what your talkin about this flasher... but if i were you i would just put a reg bulb in there cause unless its a whole led light set up, the bulb is bright anyways with the stock lenses... thats just my .02 someone can chime in and correct me if im wrong...

They have wired in resistors so they're drawing more power than normal LED's. And the flashing has nothing to do with the computer. The flasher is load dependent. So the smaller the draw, the faster it blinks. The adjustable flasher is not load dependent. Its fully electronic.
I do not want to switch to a regular bulb as I like the hyper-white color. Matches my marker lights and my HID's.

never mind figured it out

im curious. . . what was wrong?

I'm curious what the problem was too. But I'm gonna take a stab at it as I understood these. The blinkers to rely on the load of the bulb, but it's not the voltage it needs, its the amperage. Yes the LED's do pull 12V but they only pull a few mA instead of the couple of full amps that a regular bulb pulls.

I may be doing an LED conversion for the DRL's, the Tail Lights, and the rear blinkers with individual LED's and resistors. My understanding is you need to put Load Resistors inline to keep the power level so the blinkers work properly (Don't need 'em for brake lights)

Small correction - in parallel, not in line (which sounds like in series).
If you get an electronic flasher though you won't have to mess with the load resistors.

I just meant tied into the blinker wiring in general. But yea, they get wired in parallel.

Figured you knew but just in case someone else read it wrong :)

You have to have an electronic or LED flasher for them to flash correctly without the load emulators. You can keep your original flasher if you use the load emulators also. One thing about switching the flasher so it will blink properly without the emulators if your car has cruise you have to use the emulator or the cruise will not work. It will flash fine, but no cruise. This was the case with my 99. However on my 97 the ABS didn't work without the emulators. I don't know why the different symptoms of each car. Hope this helps.

To be honest, the problem was the bulb came half way out of the socket. So oddly enough, with a bad connection, it only blinked. Weird. These bulbs I bought on eBay are real pieces of crap though. Already some leds in both lights died out. I think I might replace them with something with more quality from superbrightleds.com.

wow, that was a simple fix. i kind of figured the ebay bulbs would be garbage. but not this quick.

if u get a chance, can u post some pics of the leds at night??

yeah i wont be home all weekend but i'll post some up sunday night :drive:

here is a link to how i did my one off led marker lights. i might go back and make another set once i get back from iraq.... but just so u can get some ideas

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...very-easy.html