Ask a Professional Detailer
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2
Might want to look into the new Griots Garage DA polisher or a Porter Cable 7424XP. That's my $.02
Final Polish PO85U Cut - 2.5 Gloss - 4.5
Super Finish "Nano" PO106FA Cut - 2.5 Gloss -5
Micro Polish* PO87MC Cut - 2 Gloss - 4.5
They all produce amazing gloss. "Nano" is best for hard clear coats. 85U is great for softer ones. 87MC is kind of in between.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Next, you will need Meguiar's PlastX (may be available at a local parts or hardware store). Use this with a rotary on a high speed to produce amazing results.
But, this work will not last forever. The lenses are coated from the factory with a sealant, which you sanded off. They will get hazy much more rapidly if nothing is done. Clear coat will work, but eventually fade and turn into a mess, and you'll have to re-sand them. A perfect and permanent solution would be Opti-coat, which can also be used on paint finishes and wheels. It's a clear 'resin' solution which seals the surface permanently from weathering. Jeff (GoFast) uses a professional version of Opti-coat called Opti-guard- which dries faster, and is not available to the general public- on client cars.
I am also going to grab some Meguiars Plast-X to use on the rotary buffer.
I tried a cheap headlight repair kit before with the small pieces of sandpaper and hand buffed them. They looked 'okay' for a few weeks then hazed right over. I want to do it again, right, and seal them properly.
So since its tax season i really want to get into a nice polisher.
So far i am thinking of getting the Adams PC 7424XP (3rd) polisher kit. Do you recommend this or is there a better polisher kit that you recommend that is at a great budget?
Last edited by SickZ28; Jan 13, 2012 at 05:55 PM.
You mentioned minimum and maximum temperatures to apply or not apply certain products. How about humidity? Is there a % where you will not bother with compound/polish/sealant? Or a temp/dewpoint spread? I know visible moisture (fog) can appear with a spread around 3 degrees C, which would totally ruin a day of detailing.
You mentioned rain water being pure except for acid rain. Water vapor needs something to condense on to become a droplet. Either pollen, dust, or pollutants will work. Once the droplet starts it can serve as a condensation point and needs no further "junk" to grow. They can however pick up anything that gets in their way. Air quality reports from the weather channel will typically let you know if rain is going to leave spots or not. Although no rain is ever completely pure. Probably not the most useful info, but more of a fun fact.
Bare aluminum wheel cleaning can be a pain. My wheels are AFS polished aluminum C5 ZO6 replicas and are pictured in my sig. I try to polish them once a year using mothers mag and aluminum which you've mentioned before. I use Eagle One aluminum wheel cleaner on them with every wash and I've found that to be the best brake dust remover so far besides polishing them. Simple soap and water does not loosen brake dust like the Eagle One stuff will. Is there anything that would keep these in better shape between polishings? I typically spend about 2 hours per wheel to get them where I want them once a year. After reading this whole thread it looks like I need to wash them after polishing and hit them with a good sealant too.
Thanks again for all the time you put in making this thread a success. I'm now off to read the 5 tabs I opened while reading this thread lol.
Next, you will need Meguiar's PlastX (may be available at a local parts or hardware store). Use this with a rotary on a high speed to produce amazing results.
But, this work will not last forever. The lenses are coated from the factory with a sealant, which you sanded off. They will get hazy much more rapidly if nothing is done. Clear coat will work, but eventually fade and turn into a mess, and you'll have to re-sand them. A perfect and permanent solution would be Opti-coat, which can also be used on paint finishes and wheels. It's a clear 'resin' solution which seals the surface permanently from weathering. Jeff (GoFast) uses a professional version of Opti-coat called Opti-guard- which dries faster, and is not available to the general public- on client cars.


