Ask a Professional Detailer
Banned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,127
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From: IL
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I just did my first detail on my black SS. The car has never looked so good thanks to you and you're advice. Took me forever to detail it. Too bad it's a black car and only last a day clean. I have a question, to clean off the dust after I drive it. Can I use a car duster type of thing or just blow it off with air. Thank you again.
But, this work will not last forever. The lenses are coated from the factory with a sealant, which you sanded off. They will get hazy much more rapidly if nothing is done. Clear coat will work, but eventually fade and turn into a mess, and you'll have to re-sand them. A perfect and permanent solution would be Opti-coat, which can also be used on paint finishes and wheels. It's a clear 'resin' solution which seals the surface permanently from weathering. Jeff (GoFast) uses a professional version of Opti-coat called Opti-guard- which dries faster, and is not available to the general public- on client cars.
After that follow up with Megs 105/205 on a 3-4" wool pad, then Lake Country 4" orange pad. Finish with Lake Country white 4" pad with the Megs 205. Then you'll need to coat them with Opti-Coat 2.0 (consumer version) to protect the work you just put into them. FYI, Camaro lenses are VERY tricky to do and my least favorite as the plastic is on the very hard side. TAKE YOUR TIME, do it right. Don't rush it.
Jeff- Any knowledge of Honda clear coat? My wife owns a 2000 Accord EX in a forrest green type color. The paint is definitely neglected, plenty of swirls,etc. Would the 105/205 combo work well with an orange flat pad? Should I order the Mezerna twins? I have two bottles of both 105/205 so I'd like to start using it, but if the Mezerna works better for this application then I wouldn't hesitate to place an order. We're looking to sell the car in the spring and I need it in tip top shape!
Menzerna is worth the $, but for the honda, the Megs will do just fine.
I'm about to pull the trigger on some headlight UV protectant. I remember you mentioning to buy either Opti-Coat or CQuartz. Which do you prefer?
I am also going to grab some Meguiars Plast-X to use on the rotary buffer.
I tried a cheap headlight repair kit before with the small pieces of sandpaper and hand buffed them. They looked 'okay' for a few weeks then hazed right over. I want to do it again, right, and seal them properly.
I am also going to grab some Meguiars Plast-X to use on the rotary buffer.
I tried a cheap headlight repair kit before with the small pieces of sandpaper and hand buffed them. They looked 'okay' for a few weeks then hazed right over. I want to do it again, right, and seal them properly.
so i decided to use my buddies buffer with the whool pad to detail my car and i ended up leaving some whool pad marks on the black paint.
So since its tax season i really want to get into a nice polisher.
So far i am thinking of getting the Adams PC 7424XP (3rd) polisher kit. Do you recommend this or is there a better polisher kit that you recommend that is at a great budget?
So since its tax season i really want to get into a nice polisher.
So far i am thinking of getting the Adams PC 7424XP (3rd) polisher kit. Do you recommend this or is there a better polisher kit that you recommend that is at a great budget?
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Hello, I've just read through all 34 pages since I'm stuck in a hotel with nothing to do. I'd like to thank you for putting such time and effort into your responses, especially for the price we're (not) paying! I do have a few things to add and ask however.
You mentioned minimum and maximum temperatures to apply or not apply certain products. How about humidity? Is there a % where you will not bother with compound/polish/sealant? Or a temp/dewpoint spread? I know visible moisture (fog) can appear with a spread around 3 degrees C, which would totally ruin a day of detailing.
You mentioned rain water being pure except for acid rain. Water vapor needs something to condense on to become a droplet. Either pollen, dust, or pollutants will work. Once the droplet starts it can serve as a condensation point and needs no further "junk" to grow. They can however pick up anything that gets in their way. Air quality reports from the weather channel will typically let you know if rain is going to leave spots or not. Although no rain is ever completely pure. Probably not the most useful info, but more of a fun fact.
Bare aluminum wheel cleaning can be a pain. My wheels are AFS polished aluminum C5 ZO6 replicas and are pictured in my sig. I try to polish them once a year using mothers mag and aluminum which you've mentioned before. I use Eagle One aluminum wheel cleaner on them with every wash and I've found that to be the best brake dust remover so far besides polishing them. Simple soap and water does not loosen brake dust like the Eagle One stuff will. Is there anything that would keep these in better shape between polishings? I typically spend about 2 hours per wheel to get them where I want them once a year. After reading this whole thread it looks like I need to wash them after polishing and hit them with a good sealant too.
Thanks again for all the time you put in making this thread a success. I'm now off to read the 5 tabs I opened while reading this thread lol.
You mentioned minimum and maximum temperatures to apply or not apply certain products. How about humidity? Is there a % where you will not bother with compound/polish/sealant? Or a temp/dewpoint spread? I know visible moisture (fog) can appear with a spread around 3 degrees C, which would totally ruin a day of detailing.
You mentioned rain water being pure except for acid rain. Water vapor needs something to condense on to become a droplet. Either pollen, dust, or pollutants will work. Once the droplet starts it can serve as a condensation point and needs no further "junk" to grow. They can however pick up anything that gets in their way. Air quality reports from the weather channel will typically let you know if rain is going to leave spots or not. Although no rain is ever completely pure. Probably not the most useful info, but more of a fun fact.
Bare aluminum wheel cleaning can be a pain. My wheels are AFS polished aluminum C5 ZO6 replicas and are pictured in my sig. I try to polish them once a year using mothers mag and aluminum which you've mentioned before. I use Eagle One aluminum wheel cleaner on them with every wash and I've found that to be the best brake dust remover so far besides polishing them. Simple soap and water does not loosen brake dust like the Eagle One stuff will. Is there anything that would keep these in better shape between polishings? I typically spend about 2 hours per wheel to get them where I want them once a year. After reading this whole thread it looks like I need to wash them after polishing and hit them with a good sealant too.
Thanks again for all the time you put in making this thread a success. I'm now off to read the 5 tabs I opened while reading this thread lol.
Interesting point about the rain, something I didn't know. Very interesting. I guess certain areas (ie Industrial) and certain times of year (ie allergy times) will have an effect on it. I was speaking in general terms, but yes rain isn't 100% pure.
Since it doesn't get very humid out here in the San Francisco Bay Area in CA, I haven't really had to deal with it effecting my detailing, so I can't really comment on that...
For the wheels, I'd recommend Sonax Full Effect for your wheels. Not cheap, but THE best wheel cleaner out there. And for polishing them, give Chemical Guys Metal Shine a try. IMO its better than the Mothers stuff. Changing my official recommendation.
My 2 cents...
Menzerna Super intensive polish PO83(if needed)
Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FA
Menzerna Final Polish PO85U
Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
The Blackfire sealant is very easy on & off and the Souveran wax is the same - depth and shine are awesome!
Menzerna Super intensive polish PO83(if needed)
Menzerna Nano Polish PO106FA
Menzerna Final Polish PO85U
Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax
The Blackfire sealant is very easy on & off and the Souveran wax is the same - depth and shine are awesome!
Corvette clears are very hard and the listed Menzerna polishes are specifically designed to work on hard clear coats. Have fun and post pics!
Thank you for taking the time to make this. I just did my first detail on my black SS. The car has never looked so good thanks to you and you're advice. Took me forever to detail it. Too bad it's a black car and only last a day clean. I have a question, to clean off the dust after I drive it. Can I use a car duster type of thing or just blow it off with air. Thank you again.
Don't ever use a duster on it again. If you have spent hours correcting the finish on your car, protect that investment by washing it properly instead of "dusting" it or "wiping it down". Thats just how its gotta be with black....
Get some good foam applicators for wax application. As long as you keep it clean and free of debris, you won't scratch it. You can also get a red LC pad for the PC to apply sealants (my fav).
On a personal note, my apologies for being absent lately! Typically winter means business slows down and I have more time for the forums....this has NOT been the case this winter!!! I've got some REALLY cool writeups coming for you guys to enjoy! Maybe use some pics for the wallpaper on your computer....I know I do!
Banned
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 0
From: IL
I'd get the Menzerna ceramic kit (SIP/106FA "Nano") or the Meguiars 105/205 kit. Or if you REALLY want to be set up, get the Menzerna kit and then just buy a 32oz bottle of 105 and 205 as well. You'll be ready for anything!
Get some good foam applicators for wax application. As long as you keep it clean and free of debris, you won't scratch it. You can also get a red LC pad for the PC to apply sealants (my fav).
Get some good foam applicators for wax application. As long as you keep it clean and free of debris, you won't scratch it. You can also get a red LC pad for the PC to apply sealants (my fav).
There's no way hand motions can replicate what the PC can do. Definitely get the PC, you won't regret it.
After how many washes do you wash your mitts? Do you just use dawn soap and lukewarm water?
Also for really grimy areas like panels behind tires that hold a lot of tar and mud do you use a different mitt for these so you don't dirty the "cleaner" ones? Kind of like using a separate mitt for cleaning the wheels.
Also for really grimy areas like panels behind tires that hold a lot of tar and mud do you use a different mitt for these so you don't dirty the "cleaner" ones? Kind of like using a separate mitt for cleaning the wheels.