Write Up: C6 Steering Wheel in an F-body
#381
Staging Lane
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Location: Mass
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Thanks! I used the Grant 3196 installation kit. I could use an air bag however what you see on the steering wheel currently is just the cover theirs no air bag. i could purchase one for $250 but i'm good without it i don't street race plus its a weekend car not daily driver. i can tell you this that steering wheel feels good. I need the cage that houses the air bag so i can get the horn to work properly.
Did this method move the wheel closer to the driver? Ive been thinking of this idea for a couple weeks now and just now stumbled in on this thread. My plan is to use a 2017 Corvette or D shaped Camaro wheel in my 1991 Camaro. I do not care about the air bag at all. I also do not want to take the column apart to swap shafts since my car has 50K miles on it and I dont want to make permanent changes to it.
#382
[QUOTE=BOTTLEDZ28;19565817]Did this method move the wheel closer to the driver? Ive been thinking of this idea for a couple weeks now and just now stumbled in on this thread. My plan is to use a 2017 Corvette or D shaped Camaro wheel in my 1991 Camaro. I do not care about the air bag at all. I also do not want to take the column apart to swap shafts since my car has 50K miles on it and I dont want to make permanent changes to
Yes it moves torwrds you by very little maybe by and im guessing about 1 inch but maybe less. It does feel way better i am so glad i got done, it feels like a new car, well my entire front end is new except the front shocks but the car feels more direct and the wheel just gives it that perfect feel. The old one was to thin and it flexed i hated that.
Yes it moves torwrds you by very little maybe by and im guessing about 1 inch but maybe less. It does feel way better i am so glad i got done, it feels like a new car, well my entire front end is new except the front shocks but the car feels more direct and the wheel just gives it that perfect feel. The old one was to thin and it flexed i hated that.
#383
So I have literally read through all 20 pages of this thread and there's quite a bit of impressive information here. I'm thinking of taking this project on myself, only I also want radio controls to work. Here's the issue though. My 99 Z28 didn't come factory with the radio controls.
I know I will need a clock spring from an 00 - 02 F-Body with radio controls. Will there be any additional wiring necessary for the radio controls to work (besides the adapter modules that LT4-Vert used inside his wheel to get his to work, I am speaking more so wiring that didn't come with my car out of the factory since it didn't have radio controls.)
I've been reading in and out of the process to actually remove the steering shaft and the steering knuckle but still not 100% clear. It "SOUNDS" like there's going to be alot of small pieces everywhere. How difficult was it to remove the steering shaft? Also the process of removing the steering knuckle, when you say its tedious, is there any way that any of this stuff can be installed improperly and misalign the wheel?.
Also, where did you guys source your Airbag Covers from? They seem to come with the Airbag intact and that seems to cost more than the steering wheel itself. Cheapest I could find is $350...
I know I will need a clock spring from an 00 - 02 F-Body with radio controls. Will there be any additional wiring necessary for the radio controls to work (besides the adapter modules that LT4-Vert used inside his wheel to get his to work, I am speaking more so wiring that didn't come with my car out of the factory since it didn't have radio controls.)
I've been reading in and out of the process to actually remove the steering shaft and the steering knuckle but still not 100% clear. It "SOUNDS" like there's going to be alot of small pieces everywhere. How difficult was it to remove the steering shaft? Also the process of removing the steering knuckle, when you say its tedious, is there any way that any of this stuff can be installed improperly and misalign the wheel?.
Also, where did you guys source your Airbag Covers from? They seem to come with the Airbag intact and that seems to cost more than the steering wheel itself. Cheapest I could find is $350...
#384
so... in regards to the radio controls i may have found a new angle to look into there... some c5 vette guys have managed to take c6 clocksprings and addapt them to work with c5 controls... not sure how that would translate to an f-body but it is something to look into.
#387
11 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
*Corrected* I used an 04 bag
2004 Silverado single stage air bag worked. No air bag DTC's It was a little tight in the saturn air bag cover but it was a direct bolt in. I installed an 01-02 Fbody clock spring (radio controls) so I have extra pins to wire up the wheel buttons. Im going to relay them to the ypipe cutouts and the rear borla cutout.
The LT1 body cars will need the updated 01+ clock spring. The lower dash pigtail can swap the yellow lock body onto the new CS connector afer a slight trim on the cs side.
100% working air
2004 Silverado single stage air bag worked. No air bag DTC's It was a little tight in the saturn air bag cover but it was a direct bolt in. I installed an 01-02 Fbody clock spring (radio controls) so I have extra pins to wire up the wheel buttons. Im going to relay them to the ypipe cutouts and the rear borla cutout.
The LT1 body cars will need the updated 01+ clock spring. The lower dash pigtail can swap the yellow lock body onto the new CS connector afer a slight trim on the cs side.
100% working air
Last edited by CamaroRick; 04-26-2017 at 01:06 PM.
#388
11 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
Corrected I used a 2004 Silverado 2500 HD Single Stage bag and igniter and swapped it in the 3 spoke cover. It barely fits as the 3 spoke has more material in the emblem area than the donor bag cover has. The plate and tabs are identical tho. The bags seem roughly the same dimension when apart but it pushes out the 3 spoke cover a little.
It wasnt exactly easy. Take your time. The upper shaft can accidentally be installed 180* Hardest part is the pivot lock arms
Go to a local salvage yard i got my bag cover for $60 and got the (2004 HD single bag) online for $50 (couldnt find local But still got a deal). I got the upper shaft from a 2010 Express van for like $12 The wheel was $12 If u can find a deployed c6 bag cover you could swap the emblem while swapping bags (thin aluminum tabs)
The clock spring to air bag side needs to be carefully trimmed where the wires come out. (just the plastic support) I used a dremel and carefully cut it enough to snap it off clean without nicking the wires.
So I have literally read through all 20 pages of this thread and there's quite a bit of impressive information here. I'm thinking of taking this project on myself, only I also want radio controls to work. Here's the issue though. My 99 Z28 didn't come factory with the radio controls.
I know I will need a clock spring from an 00 - 02 F-Body with radio controls. Will there be any additional wiring necessary for the radio controls to work (besides the adapter modules that LT4-Vert used inside his wheel to get his to work, I am speaking more so wiring that didn't come with my car out of the factory since it didn't have radio controls.)
I've been reading in and out of the process to actually remove the steering shaft and the steering knuckle but still not 100% clear. It "SOUNDS" like there's going to be alot of small pieces everywhere. How difficult was it to remove the steering shaft? Also the process of removing the steering knuckle, when you say its tedious, is there any way that any of this stuff can be installed improperly and misalign the wheel?.
Also, where did you guys source your Airbag Covers from? They seem to come with the Airbag intact and that seems to cost more than the steering wheel itself. Cheapest I could find is $350...
I know I will need a clock spring from an 00 - 02 F-Body with radio controls. Will there be any additional wiring necessary for the radio controls to work (besides the adapter modules that LT4-Vert used inside his wheel to get his to work, I am speaking more so wiring that didn't come with my car out of the factory since it didn't have radio controls.)
I've been reading in and out of the process to actually remove the steering shaft and the steering knuckle but still not 100% clear. It "SOUNDS" like there's going to be alot of small pieces everywhere. How difficult was it to remove the steering shaft? Also the process of removing the steering knuckle, when you say its tedious, is there any way that any of this stuff can be installed improperly and misalign the wheel?.
Also, where did you guys source your Airbag Covers from? They seem to come with the Airbag intact and that seems to cost more than the steering wheel itself. Cheapest I could find is $350...
Go to a local salvage yard i got my bag cover for $60 and got the (2004 HD single bag) online for $50 (couldnt find local But still got a deal). I got the upper shaft from a 2010 Express van for like $12 The wheel was $12 If u can find a deployed c6 bag cover you could swap the emblem while swapping bags (thin aluminum tabs)
The clock spring to air bag side needs to be carefully trimmed where the wires come out. (just the plastic support) I used a dremel and carefully cut it enough to snap it off clean without nicking the wires.
Last edited by CamaroRick; 04-26-2017 at 12:49 PM.
#390
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
CamaroRick- Did the f-car air bag connector plug right into the Silverado bag, or did you need to splice on the Silverado connector to the f car clockspring? I had decided to leave the bag issue alone. The only other person Ive seen make the bag work was another member here that used the Express van bag, it looked quite stuffed in there. Any pics of the Silverado bag in the 3 spoke bag cover?
Lastly in 07 they had the new gen truck or the prior gen sold as a Silverado classic. Which body style was it from. New gen would have the aluminum bow tie plate, prior gen would have had the bowtie molded in the cover.
Lastly in 07 they had the new gen truck or the prior gen sold as a Silverado classic. Which body style was it from. New gen would have the aluminum bow tie plate, prior gen would have had the bowtie molded in the cover.
#393
11 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
CamaroRick- Did the f-car air bag connector plug right into the Silverado bag, or did you need to splice on the Silverado connector to the f car clockspring? I had decided to leave the bag issue alone. The only other person Ive seen make the bag work was another member here that used the Express van bag, it looked quite stuffed in there. Any pics of the Silverado bag in the 3 spoke bag cover?
Lastly in 07 they had the new gen truck or the prior gen sold as a Silverado classic. Which body style was it from. New gen would have the aluminum bow tie plate, prior gen would have had the bowtie molded in the cover.
Lastly in 07 they had the new gen truck or the prior gen sold as a Silverado classic. Which body style was it from. New gen would have the aluminum bow tie plate, prior gen would have had the bowtie molded in the cover.
Here is a picture of the bag needed. Keep in mind they had dual stage bags with the same cover (I went on a Junkyard air bag removal rampage and came up empty) I suspect they are slightly rare to find in a salvage yard. I checked 2 locations.
#394
11 Second Club
iTrader: (24)
Heres the description from the ebay auction. There may be a better fitting bag available that no one has found yet but it did fit decently.
As Listed on Ebay:
"Part also fits
EDIT
AVOID 2007-2014 due to TAKATA RECALL
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver, exc. 1500 HD; single port connector
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver, 1500 HD
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, single port connector
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver, 1500 HD
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver, exc. 1500 HD; single port connector
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, Crew Cab
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, exc. Crew Cab; 2500 HD
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver
SILVERADO 3500 PICKUP 2003 - 2006 driver
SILVERADO 3500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2003 - 2006 driver, 8500 GVW (opt C5F)
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2007 - 2007 driver
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2003 - 2006 driver, 8600 GVW (opt C6P)
EXPRESS 3500 VAN 2003 - 2007 driver"
As Listed on Ebay:
"Part also fits
EDIT
AVOID 2007-2014 due to TAKATA RECALL
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver, exc. 1500 HD; single port connector
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver, 1500 HD
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, single port connector
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver, 1500 HD
SILVERADO 1500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver, exc. 1500 HD; single port connector
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, Crew Cab
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2003 - 2004 driver, exc. Crew Cab; 2500 HD
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver
SILVERADO 2500 PICKUP 2005 - 2006 driver
SILVERADO 3500 PICKUP 2003 - 2006 driver
SILVERADO 3500 PICKUP 2007 - 2007 classic style (creased door skin), driver
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2003 - 2006 driver, 8500 GVW (opt C5F)
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2007 - 2007 driver
EXPRESS 2500 VAN 2003 - 2006 driver, 8600 GVW (opt C6P)
EXPRESS 3500 VAN 2003 - 2007 driver"
Last edited by CamaroRick; 05-09-2018 at 07:29 PM.
#396
So basically if I were to go on eBay and buy one of these, how will I know if its a single stage or dual stage? or..is that what you're saying that we might not know?
#399
Nice job guys and good info here.
Does the donor column NEED to be an 00-02 for the clock spring or can it be a 98 or 99 with radio controls? Are the clock springs different for 98 and 99 and 00-02?
Does the donor column NEED to be an 00-02 for the clock spring or can it be a 98 or 99 with radio controls? Are the clock springs different for 98 and 99 and 00-02?
#400
I kind of have an idea and wanted your opinions.
I was sitting here brainstorming solutions for the AirBag situation, and I know a few of you have gotten other model vehicle airbags to work in the F-Body and C6 steering wheel without issues while the majority of us are concered for..obvious reasons..
Don't quote me on this, this is only the information that I've obtained by reading this thread so I could be a bit off..
My understanding is THIS:
A.) When you turn the key, a low voltage? or low amperage? current is sent into the airbag to confirm its intact to TEST the system. If the test passes and the voltage or current expectation is met, then the Airbag light stays OFF.. and of course if it fails then the Airbag light comes on - thus why people who remove it have to put a resistor in place to simulate the airbags resistance...
B.) When you are involved in an accident that triggers the necessary conditions to deploy the airbags, a HIGH amperage current is sent through the SAME CIRCUIT and this is what deploys the airbags.. ..which is why there is a danger of another vehicles airbags deploying in test mode...
So.. my possible solution to this.. to eliminate the possibility of the airbags prematurely deploying, while still keeping the system intact and functional..and the possibility of using just about ANY airbag is this... (and this is all assuming that my theory of how the airbags work to begin with is correct.)
What if an intermediate module could be designed..that sits between the vehicles airbag connector harness (steering column) and the actual airbag itself (steering wheel)...The module would be like a circuit board designed to do the following things...
#1 Acting with the function of a switch that is by default OFF at all times unless certain criteria are met (I'll go into details further down.) INTERUPTING the circuit between the vehicle harness and the actual physical airbag UNLESS the event of an accident occurs...
#2 The circuit board would be configured to simulate the resistance of your STOCK F-Body Airbag, and loop back to ground as to let the computer know not to turn on the Airbag light... so the computer does not see a problem.. while in truth even during TEST mode when you crank, the only device that receives power is the MODULE, NOT THE AIRBAG, the AIRBAG IS COMPLETELY BYPASSED so the airbag never see's the test mode current making it impossible for it to deploy prematurely.
#3 It will consistently test the voltages (or amperage, whichever is the determining factor between test and actual deployment of the bag) .. If an actual accident occurs, when the circuit gets hot enough to reach deployment conditions of an airbag, the module SWITCHES power to the AIRBAG .. Deploying your airbag as it normally should.. (although the module should also retain power)
So it would look similar to this ...
[Note that the diode is necessary because the ground could backfeed back to the airbag and ground itself into the steering shaft, deploying the airbag prematurely anyway. A slight issue with this is diodes create small voltage drops (less than 1 whole volt) which may be an issue for the actual deployment of the airbag.]
Opinions? I'm sure something of this sort of module should be able to be constructed...and at the very worst..the airbags simply just won't deploy..instead of deploying prematurely.
From my understanding, you MUST have an 00 - 02 clockspring for the radio controls to work regardless of the model year your car is...
I was sitting here brainstorming solutions for the AirBag situation, and I know a few of you have gotten other model vehicle airbags to work in the F-Body and C6 steering wheel without issues while the majority of us are concered for..obvious reasons..
Don't quote me on this, this is only the information that I've obtained by reading this thread so I could be a bit off..
My understanding is THIS:
A.) When you turn the key, a low voltage? or low amperage? current is sent into the airbag to confirm its intact to TEST the system. If the test passes and the voltage or current expectation is met, then the Airbag light stays OFF.. and of course if it fails then the Airbag light comes on - thus why people who remove it have to put a resistor in place to simulate the airbags resistance...
B.) When you are involved in an accident that triggers the necessary conditions to deploy the airbags, a HIGH amperage current is sent through the SAME CIRCUIT and this is what deploys the airbags.. ..which is why there is a danger of another vehicles airbags deploying in test mode...
So.. my possible solution to this.. to eliminate the possibility of the airbags prematurely deploying, while still keeping the system intact and functional..and the possibility of using just about ANY airbag is this... (and this is all assuming that my theory of how the airbags work to begin with is correct.)
What if an intermediate module could be designed..that sits between the vehicles airbag connector harness (steering column) and the actual airbag itself (steering wheel)...The module would be like a circuit board designed to do the following things...
#1 Acting with the function of a switch that is by default OFF at all times unless certain criteria are met (I'll go into details further down.) INTERUPTING the circuit between the vehicle harness and the actual physical airbag UNLESS the event of an accident occurs...
#2 The circuit board would be configured to simulate the resistance of your STOCK F-Body Airbag, and loop back to ground as to let the computer know not to turn on the Airbag light... so the computer does not see a problem.. while in truth even during TEST mode when you crank, the only device that receives power is the MODULE, NOT THE AIRBAG, the AIRBAG IS COMPLETELY BYPASSED so the airbag never see's the test mode current making it impossible for it to deploy prematurely.
#3 It will consistently test the voltages (or amperage, whichever is the determining factor between test and actual deployment of the bag) .. If an actual accident occurs, when the circuit gets hot enough to reach deployment conditions of an airbag, the module SWITCHES power to the AIRBAG .. Deploying your airbag as it normally should.. (although the module should also retain power)
So it would look similar to this ...
[Note that the diode is necessary because the ground could backfeed back to the airbag and ground itself into the steering shaft, deploying the airbag prematurely anyway. A slight issue with this is diodes create small voltage drops (less than 1 whole volt) which may be an issue for the actual deployment of the airbag.]
Opinions? I'm sure something of this sort of module should be able to be constructed...and at the very worst..the airbags simply just won't deploy..instead of deploying prematurely.
From my understanding, you MUST have an 00 - 02 clockspring for the radio controls to work regardless of the model year your car is...
Last edited by Need4Camaro; 05-27-2017 at 01:40 AM.