firebird967

Just sharing my experience installing these lights on my daily drive car.

I know some of you are against this mod. It was not about looking current, or just wanting what others had. My headlights were so bad, it was like driving by candle light. Maybe this is a symptom of an electrical problem. I don’t know at this point. I don’t think I could do the projector mod myself.

With information from this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...onversion.html, I purchased these HID lamps from DDM Tuning.
35 watt, 5000k, 9006 bulb
I already had LMC low beam housings.
Having already replaced the connectors for the LMC’s, this was really plug & play.
For now, the ballasts are resting sort of in front of the lights, on a ledge under the bumper. I’ll probably use heavy duty double stick tape. Hopefully the wires won’t interfere with the lights opening and closing. They are in the up position now because I’m having a motor issue with one side.

As you can see, the beam is U shaped. I don’t see this on anyone else’s photos.
Has anyone experienced this?
Did I wind up with the wrong LMC’s? They were difficult to purchase. You can’t just add them to your cart. You have to choose a year and vehicle from a list, and see that the part number matches.






It’s also difficult to aim my lights. My driver side is cranked all the way, and I cannot get it to match the pass. side. I know there are many variables, mainly the flip lights, but you’d think it could be compensated.

They worked fine for 4 days.

Typically, I turn the switch and there is a brief flash, then they dim slightly and come up to full power in about 30 seconds.
Today, day 5, when I turned them on, they flash. Not flicker; flash.
My DRLs work, and always have with these headlights.

I am at a loss and so frustrated with these headlights right now. Between the new motor that closes and gets stuck, to now these lights that suddenly don’t work right…

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

The high beam housing doesn't have the reflector cap. The low beam housing has the reflector cap.

firebird967

Correct. That's what I bought and what I used.

firebird967

Update. I turned on the headlights this afternoon to check. Driver came on steady. Passenger didn't come on at all. Its ballast was hot, and it was making a whining noise. I certainly unplugged it.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I'd suspect a bad bulb. Maybe try a LED bulb instead.

kyphur

iTrader: (5)

I have both the high and low HID's from DDM tuning in my 02 WS6 along with the LMC truck housings. They were working fine before I took the engine out of the car and I don't remember having that "W" look to mine. When I get everything back up and running (and if I remember) I'll take some pics of my setup and the lights on. The "flash" and then dimming is normal for HID's also. They did it in my old 01 Camaro with the DDM HID's also.

ramairjohn2000

iTrader: (3)

I got hids that I couldn’t get to work either with the way our headlights flip it just doesn’t for right and they got super hot also. I have housings though so hopefully in the future there will be a better brighter option

pdxmotorhead

Option: ( Little long hope this helps, you can find this pre-built or DIY like I do.. )
Put in a circuit bypass for your headlights,, this requires 2 30A relays, 1 for low beam one for high beam.
That will express feed full demand current to your lights.

Run a #8 wire off the main power block where the + cable connects to the fuse box.
This cable will provide the heavy circuit power to the relays,
I strip the insulation back about 2" and separate the wire strands so I can use two connectors,
then re-insulate with shrink wrap and crimp 2 female connectors on to create a "Y"

Use whichever headlight connections are easiest to get at. (Driver or passenger.)
Mount your relays to a safe location near that headlight assembly and make sure
they are together so your wire harness above can connect to both.
You want the relays as close to the headlights at possible.

You'll be Use the low beam power to trigger one relay.
Use the high beam power to run the other.
You'll likely need to add wire, You can use a suitable male crimp onconnector to plug in to the
existing socket for the low or high beam whichever your wiring first. I plug them in,
and fold them back and tie wrap them then from a comercial electrical store you can get 1" or
whatever size shrink tube you need to cover the connection and seal it shut.

Buy a new set of connectors for the new headlight inserts.
You'll just need the housings so if you can find the ones that are not wired that's best/easiest.
I use the plastic connector housing , but pull the stub wires and connectors out of the
housing (I use secret tool #75 for this.... Paperclip)
Use #10 wire to make a harness for the low beam and high beam circuits both wires
get crimped in to 1 connector to attach to the output on one relay.
The other ends get a female that fits the housing from above for the light connection.

Find a really good ground, one way is to add a ground block to wherever the neg battery connection is located on your engine,,
Ground your headlight grounds to this as well as the relay trigger grounds.

So I do this on rally cars when I update to 100W/150W Halogens in the headlight buckets..
You wont believe how much brighter your standard headlights are when not running though the marginal factory wiring.
This also allows the bulbs to pull full current without heating up all the connections the factory harness has.
Fewer connections = less power loss. I use the Euro Bosch inserts when I can get them they have GLASS lenses
and take the heat way better. Cibie makes glass too, and they are nice but can be hard to find in the US..

Good luck.