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Door Panel Crack Repair

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Old 05-12-2007, 05:09 PM
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Default Door Panel Crack Repair

Has anyone had any luck with the repair of the door panel cracks. I found a thread on another LS site where the author used #4 machine screws, washer, & nut in an oval hole to allow the panel to flex. He also removed all but one of the factory installed staples. After radiusing the crack he used JB weld w/ some plastic as backing. I used two-part urthane epoxy and #6 machine screws. Waiting on the epoxy to set then trial fit the door panel. Hope the #6 screw are not too big.
Old 05-12-2007, 05:20 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-firebird-1967-2002/440767-cracked-interior-door-panel-don-t-quote-pics.html

what ur lookin for is in this sticky
Old 05-16-2007, 09:30 AM
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Dave, how did the panels fit after the modifications? Can the screws scratch the glass in any way? How does the door panel (stress wise) with the window down?
Old 05-16-2007, 06:46 PM
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Rocky,
I'm currently working nights for this week and haven't been able to finish the mod. I have the panels expoxied and screws in the passenger side panel. I'm hoping to be done on this assignment by the weekend. With luck, I should be able to trial fit everything and get some answers back to you. I did notice that the vinyl repair kit doesn't hide the crack well in the plastic. It would not adhear to the plastic. Several threads mention using the vinyl/leather repair kit to match the texture and hide the crack on the interior. Not sure how they got it to work, but it wouldn't for me.
Old 05-17-2007, 10:29 AM
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I actually did this to my WS6 and I too, used bolts. But mine were #4-40 that I cut down. I was just wondering if you've had any negative affects from the screws. I haven't yet, and don't expect to, but I thought I'd ask anyway. I do, however, think that this is a permanent fix and that no more cracking will occur, but only time will tell.

I hadn't seen the other site that shows the screws. Have a link for it?

Update:

I found the link. http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=340995

Crazy, I did the EXACT same thing to mine!

Last edited by Rocky Rotella; 05-17-2007 at 10:36 AM.
Old 05-17-2007, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocky Rotella
I actually did this to my WS6 and I too, used bolts. But mine were #4-40 that I cut down. I was just wondering if you've had any negative affects from the screws. I haven't yet, and don't expect to, but I thought I'd ask anyway. I do, however, think that this is a permanent fix and that no more cracking will occur, but only time will tell.

I hadn't seen the other site that shows the screws. Have a link for it?

Update:

I found the link. http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread...hreadid=340995

Crazy, I did the EXACT same thing to mine!
When I went to the nearest hardware store, I was unable to find #4-40 bolts and nuts. I used #6 and trimmed down. Hopefully, there will not be any issue with fit.
Old 05-24-2007, 09:40 PM
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Rocky,
I trial fitted the passenger door panel this evening. I raised the window a couple of times. No signs of rubbing with the #6 bolts/nuts. Hopefully this will cure furture cracking.

Dave
Old 05-26-2007, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave1970
After radiusing the crack he used JB weld w/ some plastic as backing. I used two-part urthane epoxy and #6 machine screws. Waiting on the epoxy to set then trial fit the door panel. Hope the #6 screw are not too big.
What do you mean by radiusing the crack?
Old 05-27-2007, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by prince xizor
What do you mean by radiusing the crack?
At the end of the crack, put a radius like a circle there. It helps increase the surface area and reduce stress risers in that area.

Dave
Old 05-27-2007, 02:54 PM
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I used little bolts & nuts on mine, I had them on hand & they fit perfect, no rubbing. I didn't pull every single staple, only the ones that you can see stress on the plastic. I think I will be okay for a while.



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