Polished my accumulator. Getting better.
#1
Polished my accumulator. Getting better.
Since I am installing a new accumulator, I figured I might as well shine it up a bit. This is my third attempt at aluminum polishing. My TB was first, and that definitely was a waste of time. MAF ends came out better. This is my greatest success so far.
#7
Thanks for the compliments. I have a 1HP bench grinder and that really helps. I removed both sides of the guard on the shaft/arbor the buffing wheel is on. That makes is easier to get in tighter spaces. Now with that end open, there is nothing preventing me from stepping up to a 10” wheel instead of using an 8” wheel. That will make things even easier. In fact, I ordered new 10” wheels last night since I had to place an order at Eastwood for compound. Metal polishing has a learning curve. I still have problems with items like TB’s with many nooks and crannies, but I am confident I can make easier pieces look like chrome. Specialized Stainless will be getting an order from me soon. Instead of paying the up-charge for polished pieces, I am just going to buy brushed and polish them myself. I think I could even do this as a side job and make 75 cents/hr when all was said and done.
I am replacing my compressor because I cracked the housing when I was reinstalling it after motor mount replacement. I still do not know why it cracked. Bolts were not over-torqued or torqued unevenly.
I have not even driven my car this year as I am dragging my a**. Need to make a push to get the car finished up.
Shudog, yes, the system will have to be evacuated, leak-checked, and recharged. Found a shop that will do it for around $100.
chrysler kid, that is great yours was easy to polish. My new accumulator had enough scratches, machine marks, and surface craters (porosity) that I needed to start with 220 grit.
I am replacing my compressor because I cracked the housing when I was reinstalling it after motor mount replacement. I still do not know why it cracked. Bolts were not over-torqued or torqued unevenly.
I have not even driven my car this year as I am dragging my a**. Need to make a push to get the car finished up.
Shudog, yes, the system will have to be evacuated, leak-checked, and recharged. Found a shop that will do it for around $100.
chrysler kid, that is great yours was easy to polish. My new accumulator had enough scratches, machine marks, and surface craters (porosity) that I needed to start with 220 grit.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Resident
iTrader: (23)
Originally Posted by shudog
Did you take that out of the car just to polish it? Do you have to recharge the system after removing that cannister? Sure looks nice. I'm jealous.
#11
Originally Posted by travisnd
Not bad, though I prefer to chrome it!
edited to add
My car is super clean, but I am worried I have already spent too much money on engine bay bling. In my eyes, the engine bay needs to be repainted. I have tossed around the idea of repainting it while the engine is partially stripped, but I really do not want to use spray cans; have no spray guns; nor much experience with them.
#15
TECH Fanatic
damn travis that is the nicest engine bay I have seen in a while, I love the gloss black air box with the great SS air lid, what do you use to clean your engine bay
#19
Originally Posted by Cobra2WS6
I dont understand how you guys get them looking so good. I have used a wheel and mother polish and it looks nothing like that