Must have upgrades for street/strip 4l80e
06-08-2015, 12:06 AM
#1
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Must have upgrades for street/strip 4l80e ok so I'm finally going to an automatic. i have a 06 4l80e, reverse is out of it, no big deal its getting rebuilt anyways and i only paid 100 bucks for it.
background on the car, through the m6 is was at 450rwhp and 445rwtq but i know autos suck up more hp, not a big deal, its about e.t. numbers for me. I'm making a few changes, a custom cam, bigger headers, retune. also its getting a 300 shot. either two stage or progressive, unsure yet.
so what are the must have upgrades for this to hold up. Also I'm going with a full manual valve body. I know you need a good converter, i haven't decided on what company yet. i know a good transmission cooler and deep pan is basically a must. i will also have a temp gauge.
now i know i need a rebuilt kit. I'm guessing alto reds and koleen steels? upgrade to a 34 sprag? should i upgrade the drum or input shaft? replace the front pump? this is the type of info i need.
the car sees more street time then track time. i might go a handful of times per year and this isn't my daily driver. thanks for you input.
background on the car, through the m6 is was at 450rwhp and 445rwtq but i know autos suck up more hp, not a big deal, its about e.t. numbers for me. I'm making a few changes, a custom cam, bigger headers, retune. also its getting a 300 shot. either two stage or progressive, unsure yet.
so what are the must have upgrades for this to hold up. Also I'm going with a full manual valve body. I know you need a good converter, i haven't decided on what company yet. i know a good transmission cooler and deep pan is basically a must. i will also have a temp gauge.
now i know i need a rebuilt kit. I'm guessing alto reds and koleen steels? upgrade to a 34 sprag? should i upgrade the drum or input shaft? replace the front pump? this is the type of info i need.
the car sees more street time then track time. i might go a handful of times per year and this isn't my daily driver. thanks for you input.
06-10-2015, 11:07 AM
#4
i prefer borgwarner over the reds..the sprag will have trouble maybe at around 700hp behind a car aswell as the stock input shaft..all 80e come with 34 element sprag the only upgrade there is is the 36 element with the superdrum witch is expensive..a good well built stock unit with a shiftkit and dual feed mods should hold a good 700-800 to the tires in a car
06-11-2015, 02:43 AM
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i prefer borgwarner over the reds..the sprag will have trouble maybe at around 700hp behind a car aswell as the stock input shaft..all 80e come with 34 element sprag the only upgrade there is is the 36 element with the superdrum witch is expensive..a good well built stock unit with a shiftkit and dual feed mods should hold a good 700-800 to the tires in a car
06-11-2015, 10:01 AM
#6
hit up jakes performance and get there stage 2 rebuild kit..that has all the instructions on how to build the 80e for a good 700hp also shows you how to do the dual feed and has acouple other little tricks
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06-11-2015, 10:16 AM
#8
Yea, I would call a shop and talk to someone. My trans is built by North Texas Converter.
I can tell you I have a billet input, billet intermediate shaft, trans brake, modified valve body, 36 element aluminum super drum, billet intermediate pressure plate, billet overdrive carrier, and i am sure a whole bunch of other mods that I am not aware of.
I do however make over 1000rwhp and shooting for 1400rwhp in the next few weeks.
I can tell you I have a billet input, billet intermediate shaft, trans brake, modified valve body, 36 element aluminum super drum, billet intermediate pressure plate, billet overdrive carrier, and i am sure a whole bunch of other mods that I am not aware of.
I do however make over 1000rwhp and shooting for 1400rwhp in the next few weeks.
06-19-2015, 12:50 AM
#10
ok so I'm finally going to an automatic. i have a 06 4l80e, reverse is out of it, no big deal its getting rebuilt anyways and i only paid 100 bucks for it.
background on the car, through the m6 is was at 450rwhp and 445rwtq but i know autos suck up more hp, not a big deal, its about e.t. numbers for me. I'm making a few changes, a custom cam, bigger headers, retune. also its getting a 300 shot. either two stage or progressive, unsure yet.
so what are the must have upgrades for this to hold up. Also I'm going with a full manual valve body. I know you need a good converter, i haven't decided on what company yet. i know a good transmission cooler and deep pan is basically a must. i will also have a temp gauge.
now i know i need a rebuilt kit. I'm guessing alto reds and koleen steels? upgrade to a 34 sprag? should i upgrade the drum or input shaft? replace the front pump? this is the type of info i need.
the car sees more street time then track time. i might go a handful of times per year and this isn't my daily driver. thanks for you input.
background on the car, through the m6 is was at 450rwhp and 445rwtq but i know autos suck up more hp, not a big deal, its about e.t. numbers for me. I'm making a few changes, a custom cam, bigger headers, retune. also its getting a 300 shot. either two stage or progressive, unsure yet.
so what are the must have upgrades for this to hold up. Also I'm going with a full manual valve body. I know you need a good converter, i haven't decided on what company yet. i know a good transmission cooler and deep pan is basically a must. i will also have a temp gauge.
now i know i need a rebuilt kit. I'm guessing alto reds and koleen steels? upgrade to a 34 sprag? should i upgrade the drum or input shaft? replace the front pump? this is the type of info i need.
the car sees more street time then track time. i might go a handful of times per year and this isn't my daily driver. thanks for you input.
Not Alto Reds and not Kolene steels. Factory Borg Warner Hi Energy frictions and plain, factory steels will be more than suitable.
34 sprag is standard equipment on most 4L80Es. It would be nice to have an upgraded solution on every build, but it's costly. You will *probably* be fine without upgrading it.
With a 300 shot, a billet input shaft and a billet forward hub are a must.
Why do you want a FMVB?
The front pump is not likely to need replacing. A few hydraulic mods and an upgraded boost valve, as well as wet stoning the surface are recommended. Same with the valve body and case VB faces.
Dual feed the 3rd gear clutches. You can do it better than TransGo's kit. Hydraulic mods will be key
06-19-2015, 01:49 AM
#11
I built a 4L80E earlier this year with the intention of putting it behind an 800hp turbo motor but it will be going behind my LQ9 instead. I put a full set of alto power packs in mine but I don't think you'll need them.
But with the nitrous on your's you'll want to be running a billet front hub and hard input shaft - but stock frictions should be OK. You might want to fit a wider carbon band as well - post 99 style.
I bought the parts for mine from PATC, but I know that Jakes get a lot of positive feedback - if you are thinking of manual VB then I'd speak to Jakes....
But with the nitrous on your's you'll want to be running a billet front hub and hard input shaft - but stock frictions should be OK. You might want to fit a wider carbon band as well - post 99 style.
I bought the parts for mine from PATC, but I know that Jakes get a lot of positive feedback - if you are thinking of manual VB then I'd speak to Jakes....
06-20-2015, 12:18 AM
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Deep pan is not basically a must, but go ahead if you would like, no real harm aside from less clearance.
Not Alto Reds and not Kolene steels. Factory Borg Warner Hi Energy frictions and plain, factory steels will be more than suitable.
34 sprag is standard equipment on most 4L80Es. It would be nice to have an upgraded solution on every build, but it's costly. You will *probably* be fine without upgrading it.
With a 300 shot, a billet input shaft and a billet forward hub are a must.
Why do you want a FMVB?
The front pump is not likely to need replacing. A few hydraulic mods and an upgraded boost valve, as well as wet stoning the surface are recommended. Same with the valve body and case VB faces.
Dual feed the 3rd gear clutches. You can do it better than TransGo's kit. Hydraulic mods will be key
Not Alto Reds and not Kolene steels. Factory Borg Warner Hi Energy frictions and plain, factory steels will be more than suitable.
34 sprag is standard equipment on most 4L80Es. It would be nice to have an upgraded solution on every build, but it's costly. You will *probably* be fine without upgrading it.
With a 300 shot, a billet input shaft and a billet forward hub are a must.
Why do you want a FMVB?
The front pump is not likely to need replacing. A few hydraulic mods and an upgraded boost valve, as well as wet stoning the surface are recommended. Same with the valve body and case VB faces.
Dual feed the 3rd gear clutches. You can do it better than TransGo's kit. Hydraulic mods will be key