Calling all AUTOS! *LS1 A4 Newbie insite*
#41
11 Second Club
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: North Dallas
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I need a stall (have the Tranny Cooler) for my daily driver - mods:
SLP Lid with K&N Filter
Ported LS6 OP
Pacesetter Ceramic Coated 1 3/4 Longtubes
Pacesetter 3" ORY
Magnaflow Catback
!EGR !AIR !CAT !DSMAF
UDP
Transgo HD2 Shift Kit
B&M Tranny Cooler
Kenny Brown Double Diamond SFCs
K Member
AAM 3.73's in stock 10"
Having 2.0+ 60's on BFG DSG3 F1's and figure a stall + DR's could significantly help that, but I'm worried about snapping my rear after reading on here. Are my concerns valid?
Last edited by Head Hunter; 09-14-2010 at 09:15 PM.
#45
Eng: ms3 cam, fast92/92, lt, ory, slp#2, cai, 100 shot
trans: beast shell, corvette servos and yank 3600
rear: Richmond 373, mickey Thompson d.r.
the setup runs ******* great! even better from about 30mph in 1st gear(thats where all the torque is at) ran 11.4 at 119 1.6 60ft
trans: beast shell, corvette servos and yank 3600
rear: Richmond 373, mickey Thompson d.r.
the setup runs ******* great! even better from about 30mph in 1st gear(thats where all the torque is at) ran 11.4 at 119 1.6 60ft
#46
Good stuff guys, ive been thinking about a stall on mine but I am just worried about daily drover issues. You guys say it drives like stock ? Doesn't it raise the rpm required to move the car?
#47
With my 4,000 rpm stall I have to rev it just alittle above idle to get moving from a light...maybe a couple hundred rpms over stock....I daily drive mine about 50 miles a day....don't worry you'll love it
#49
If in not allowed to post a nonsponsor link in sorry, a mod can delete this. Read this
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/223.cfm
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/223.cfm
#50
FLT level 5 trans, FTI 3600 RPM street/strip converter, full GForce engineering spool rearend with stock 3.46 gears, gforce bolt together 300m inner stubs, gforce anti wheel hop half shafts. Motor is a Ed curtis level 5 243 ported heads and custom grind cam with a FAST LSXR 102mm combo with Ed C pushrods and Lunati/Morel link bar lifters. Car is in the upper 400 rwhp on pump 93, waiting for the 110 leaded tune to be finished up here by this weekend so I will post numbers then. The combo is a beast to say the least, the cam power range is 3200 rpm through redline so you can imagine the freight train feeling you get when you hammer down.
#52
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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I have a 99SS, yet to install the Fast 102mm intake manifold, and fast bigmouth 92mm throttle body. I got a SLP lid induction kit, I was wondering if the Fast 92mm throttle body will fit the rubber bellow from the SLP kit? (rubber piece between the MAF, and throttle)Just trying to mitigate and issues before the install?
#53
Staging Lane
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Orlando, FL
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Daily Driver Sleeper
01 Firebird Formula A4, cloth int, t-tops
Built by Next Level Performance, Orlando, FL
4L60E built by Transmissions Plus, Kissimmee, FL
Motor : Blueprinted 383ci 11:1, 6-bolt main, windage tray, forged eagle rods, forged mahle pistons, forged crank, oil pump from a '11 CTS-V, 5/16 Magnum pushrods, dual valvesprings w/Ti retainers, LS6 intake, LS6 heads, competition valve job, LS6 cam, K&N air cleaner, stock exhaust (except for hollowed out cats)
Driveline : FTI3500, locally built 4L60E for +600hp, big trans cooler, PST Custom driveshaft, 1350 yoke, Strange S60 4.10
Suspension : BMR k-member, BMR upper&lower front CA, BMR rear lower CA, adj torque arm, rear panhard bar, stock struts
NT555R 315/35R17 on the back
Dyno at 345rwhp / 391 rwtq
12.38 @ 109 / 1.709 60' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXfD1lhF0Ig
I know, the 4.10 is a bit extreme, but I never get over 65 mph (normal driving) on a daily basis. As it turns out, the mods that most do first, I end up doing dead last (exhaust, induction, big cam). This motor still makes so much torque for being heavily restricted by the airflow, the 4.10 helps when you lay in to the throttle in 2nd. Gets 16mpg city, 25 highway, 1900 rpm @ 50mph, 3000 @ 80 on a very street friendly 3500 stall. Bought the car stock with 64000 mi, now has 101500. It's nice to know exactly everything that's in this car, and reassuring when I beat on it!
Built by Next Level Performance, Orlando, FL
4L60E built by Transmissions Plus, Kissimmee, FL
Motor : Blueprinted 383ci 11:1, 6-bolt main, windage tray, forged eagle rods, forged mahle pistons, forged crank, oil pump from a '11 CTS-V, 5/16 Magnum pushrods, dual valvesprings w/Ti retainers, LS6 intake, LS6 heads, competition valve job, LS6 cam, K&N air cleaner, stock exhaust (except for hollowed out cats)
Driveline : FTI3500, locally built 4L60E for +600hp, big trans cooler, PST Custom driveshaft, 1350 yoke, Strange S60 4.10
Suspension : BMR k-member, BMR upper&lower front CA, BMR rear lower CA, adj torque arm, rear panhard bar, stock struts
NT555R 315/35R17 on the back
Dyno at 345rwhp / 391 rwtq
12.38 @ 109 / 1.709 60' http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXfD1lhF0Ig
I know, the 4.10 is a bit extreme, but I never get over 65 mph (normal driving) on a daily basis. As it turns out, the mods that most do first, I end up doing dead last (exhaust, induction, big cam). This motor still makes so much torque for being heavily restricted by the airflow, the 4.10 helps when you lay in to the throttle in 2nd. Gets 16mpg city, 25 highway, 1900 rpm @ 50mph, 3000 @ 80 on a very street friendly 3500 stall. Bought the car stock with 64000 mi, now has 101500. It's nice to know exactly everything that's in this car, and reassuring when I beat on it!
Last edited by Philip Pugeau; 04-02-2012 at 07:50 PM.
#57
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
ug stalled but having sooo much trouble hooking on poorly prepped track, less then ideal conditions and other crap that i just cant ever get a track that is drag friendly and clean lol
best i got on my stock set up was 14.00 @ 100 dont know my 60 from then
now i have
98 ta with full wright if not more with the chassis and suspention upgrades (full UMI front to back)
Stock LS1 with LS6 intake manifold and LS6 PCV valley cover. OBX Longtube headers with catted ypipe, flowmaster muff, stock Auto with revmax 3200 stall. stock 2.73 geears.
with a muddy wet track, 14.5 spinning all the way thru 1st and 2nd shifting back to 1st and finally hooking. my 60 was 1.65 if thats even important. did 14.5 @ 99 mph. Jimbos'ss was there with me and we just could not hook at all. he was running 13's and i think 12s and he has more mods then i do.
best i got on my stock set up was 14.00 @ 100 dont know my 60 from then
now i have
98 ta with full wright if not more with the chassis and suspention upgrades (full UMI front to back)
Stock LS1 with LS6 intake manifold and LS6 PCV valley cover. OBX Longtube headers with catted ypipe, flowmaster muff, stock Auto with revmax 3200 stall. stock 2.73 geears.
with a muddy wet track, 14.5 spinning all the way thru 1st and 2nd shifting back to 1st and finally hooking. my 60 was 1.65 if thats even important. did 14.5 @ 99 mph. Jimbos'ss was there with me and we just could not hook at all. he was running 13's and i think 12s and he has more mods then i do.
#58
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (24)
when do people recommend upgrading the trans? and or is it strong enough to withstand a little extra power? i know it's always a gamble, but just looking for an idea.
i will be full bolt ons, torquer V2, and 150 wet shot, SS3600 stall. stock rear end. i am wanting to get some new wheels/tires and a set of heads, but if i need to replace my trans first...i guess i have to...lol
i will be full bolt ons, torquer V2, and 150 wet shot, SS3600 stall. stock rear end. i am wanting to get some new wheels/tires and a set of heads, but if i need to replace my trans first...i guess i have to...lol
#60
02 ss auto-- rear end trouble plz help
2002 ss~ stock
mileage- 96,500
motor-runs great
trans- brand new (AUTO 4L80E) - LESS THAN 15K ON IT
rear end************ trouble************
the rear end is making a noise that i know is not healthy!!!
Sound is more predominate when driven for a while (beyond 50 miles in a single trip)
instead of try to tinker with it, i just want to replace the whole thing.
Where should i start?
Would a 12 bolt be a good idea?
Ps i don't claim to know much about these motors ( learning as i go)
any advice would help, thanks!
mileage- 96,500
motor-runs great
trans- brand new (AUTO 4L80E) - LESS THAN 15K ON IT
rear end************ trouble************
the rear end is making a noise that i know is not healthy!!!
Sound is more predominate when driven for a while (beyond 50 miles in a single trip)
instead of try to tinker with it, i just want to replace the whole thing.
Where should i start?
Would a 12 bolt be a good idea?
Ps i don't claim to know much about these motors ( learning as i go)
any advice would help, thanks!