Is 3200 enough stall for my Z28?
09-13-2010, 02:29 PM
#1
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Is 3200 enough stall for my Z28? Car is a 2000 Z28 with 67k miles and the following...
Stock 4L60-E
Stock 3.23 10-bolt
TR224-112
Patriot Stage 2 LS6 heads
LS7 Lifters
Comp 7.4 pushrods
SLP Lid
K&N
Smooth Bellow
GMAF
Pacesetter LTs and ORY
Corsa catback
Simple question, is 3200 enough to help out this cam. I might be willing to go to 3600 if someone can argue the point successfully. I want the car to quit fighting the brakes and not be a total pig from a dig, but don't want 10mpg or my trans to die prematurely.
Before the 4000+ stall people jump in, this car is a daily driver in every sense of the words. I get groceries in it, drive to work in it, and take it on 1000 mile road trips to Las Vegas. This car is also used for autocross much much more often than the 1/4 mile, and a 4k+ stall converter just would be ridiculous for the kind of controlled driving/throttle you need in the sport.
I'll include my dyno graph too. Thanks in advance for any input!
Stock 4L60-E
Stock 3.23 10-bolt
TR224-112
Patriot Stage 2 LS6 heads
LS7 Lifters
Comp 7.4 pushrods
SLP Lid
K&N
Smooth Bellow
GMAF
Pacesetter LTs and ORY
Corsa catback
Simple question, is 3200 enough to help out this cam. I might be willing to go to 3600 if someone can argue the point successfully. I want the car to quit fighting the brakes and not be a total pig from a dig, but don't want 10mpg or my trans to die prematurely.
Before the 4000+ stall people jump in, this car is a daily driver in every sense of the words. I get groceries in it, drive to work in it, and take it on 1000 mile road trips to Las Vegas. This car is also used for autocross much much more often than the 1/4 mile, and a 4k+ stall converter just would be ridiculous for the kind of controlled driving/throttle you need in the sport.
I'll include my dyno graph too. Thanks in advance for any input!
Last edited by Silver2KZ; 09-13-2010 at 03:26 PM.
09-13-2010, 02:42 PM
#3
09-13-2010, 03:05 PM
#6
let's see,you want
better from a dig
not have bad mpg
good mpg for trips
good autocrossing performance
a lock-up converter will retain good trip mpg.
city mpg is 'right foot dependent'.
you didn't say anything about tires or suspension and both areas/items affect autocrossing and from a dig.
from a dig-3600 to 4000 convertor
for autocrossing-a relatively low STR convertor.
better from a dig
not have bad mpg
good mpg for trips
good autocrossing performance
a lock-up converter will retain good trip mpg.
city mpg is 'right foot dependent'.
you didn't say anything about tires or suspension and both areas/items affect autocrossing and from a dig.
from a dig-3600 to 4000 convertor
for autocrossing-a relatively low STR convertor.
09-13-2010, 03:06 PM
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You've discovered my reason for posting this thread.
3 years ago the car went 13.322 @ 104.59mph in 54 degree weather, 18 relative humidity. Only mods at the time were SLP lid, air filter, and the Corsa exhaust.
Fast forward to last week, first time I had been back to the 1/4 mile since the pass above, and it went 13.172 @ 106.49 in 99 degree weather, 31 relative humidity.
Ironically, both passes were on an identical 1.971 60' time on Kumho street tires.
I think all my time, effort, and money in heads/cam/lts/tune etc should be worth more than 2 tenths and 2 mph.
I guess anyone thinking of heads/cam package before a stall converter in an A4 should be pointed to this thread. Doh
3 years ago the car went 13.322 @ 104.59mph in 54 degree weather, 18 relative humidity. Only mods at the time were SLP lid, air filter, and the Corsa exhaust.
Fast forward to last week, first time I had been back to the 1/4 mile since the pass above, and it went 13.172 @ 106.49 in 99 degree weather, 31 relative humidity.
Ironically, both passes were on an identical 1.971 60' time on Kumho street tires.
I think all my time, effort, and money in heads/cam/lts/tune etc should be worth more than 2 tenths and 2 mph.
I guess anyone thinking of heads/cam package before a stall converter in an A4 should be pointed to this thread. Doh
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09-13-2010, 03:06 PM
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3200 should be plenty for a 224 cam... if your strong into autox id call a sponsor and have them them recommend one for you. I bought my stall from circle d and it seems they are one of the vendors with tons of different stall sizes and applications.. id give them a shot.
and dont worry... i did everything *** backwards too.. heads cam, then headers, then stall converter. oh well live and learn! im very surprized your only trapping 106 with nearly 400 rwhp though...
and dont worry... i did everything *** backwards too.. heads cam, then headers, then stall converter. oh well live and learn! im very surprized your only trapping 106 with nearly 400 rwhp though...
09-13-2010, 03:12 PM
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let's see,you want
better from a dig
not have bad mpg
good mpg for trips
good autocrossing performance
a lock-up converter will retain good trip mpg.
city mpg is 'right foot dependent'.
you didn't say anything about tires or suspension and both areas/items affect autocrossing and from a dig.
from a dig-3600 to 4000 convertor
for autocrossing-a relatively low STR convertor.
better from a dig
not have bad mpg
good mpg for trips
good autocrossing performance
a lock-up converter will retain good trip mpg.
city mpg is 'right foot dependent'.
you didn't say anything about tires or suspension and both areas/items affect autocrossing and from a dig.
from a dig-3600 to 4000 convertor
for autocrossing-a relatively low STR convertor.
Notable suspension mods include LGM super springs (600lbs front, 220rear), revalved Bilstein HDs non-adj, offset upper control arms, 1LE sway bars, BMR torque arm, BMR LCAs (relocated), Unbalanced Engineering "on-car" adjustable Panhard rod, and every bushing I could find replaced with a poly version. Hoosier A6 335/35-17 rear, 315/35-17 front for autox, Kumho XS 315/35-17 rear, 275/40-17 front for street and 1/4 mile passes.
09-13-2010, 03:28 PM
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