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best converter for bolt on car

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Old 07-01-2012, 08:01 AM
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I would say a Yank SS3600 or SS4000.I personaly have the SS4000
Old 07-01-2012, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by andy-lswon
I was thinking a yank ss 3600. Now besides a tranny cooler, what all else would I need
id get a deeper pan and shift kit. get it tuned too.
Old 07-01-2012, 09:25 PM
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I pmd both yank and circle d and yank recommended the ss4000. Still waiting on a response from circle d
Old 07-01-2012, 10:01 PM
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I loved my old Yank PT4400 on my bolt-on car. I would do something in the 4000-4500 range personally!
Old 07-02-2012, 08:20 AM
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I was gonna go with the ss3600 until yank told me that. Texas speed recommended the 3600 so I'm torn in decisions right now haha
Old 07-02-2012, 02:28 PM
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Also, yank or circle d if you see this and could give your opinions, do either of you sell a kit with a flexplate and tranny cooler included?
Old 07-02-2012, 03:44 PM
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Andy, we are technicaly closed this week but are still running emails. You should check with us as well.The most popular bolt on DD converter with good driveability is the SRLS0086 which is a 3600. See our summer sale ad.https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-out-sale.html

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Old 07-04-2012, 11:59 AM
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Reconsider doing dig runs instead of rolls. I can't think of anything I'd rather have less for a roll racer than a stock cam'd A4. I'm sure everyone around town loves racing you, especially from a 40 when your starting off @ 1.63:1 and most of your torque converters multiplication has died out.

Embrace the dig! You need your full off the line torque multiplication from the converter and 3.06:1 first gear! If the M6s are bitching about not being able to launch, than do a 10-15 MPH roll. That way everyone is rolling, and it will be easier for them to rev up and launch without a dead weight car to move. Be prepared to pedal the gas and get it to hook. Manual shift first into second so it doesnt dump you into second at low speed if you pedal the gas. Once fully in second, push to D and teach them the meaning of pain.

.$02c

Back to topic, I ran a 4,200 Circle D 9.75" on boltons with good results. 12.28@110 in 2,000DA with headers, lightly ported stock intake and tune. Full weight, stock suspension. Big stalls are good times and beg you to install big cams which are better times

Whatever the case, plan your stall speed around the rest of your build. Going to buy a medium 236-ish cam in the future? Then you'll probably want a 3,400-3,800. Want to run a big cam and gears...etc? 4,000+

My preference is Circle D. Expert experience, outstanding customer service. Circle D has been an excellent partner in crime for my friends and I in this go fast game.

Good luck with your build.
Old 07-04-2012, 03:12 PM
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Most of the races I do are from around a 15 mph roll. After talking to a very helpful member on here I'm going with the circle 2e which is a 4000 stall. I like how you put that about making them feel the pain haha
Old 07-04-2012, 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the kudos CoolAid. Andy, you will love the 2E for you application, thanks again!!

Chris
Old 07-04-2012, 04:02 PM
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PTC 10" race converter around 4k is what you need, I absolutely loved mine when I was full bolt ons and ive had a vig3600. Yank SS3600 and a Yank PT4400. The PTC is better than all of those in my experience not to mention being a ton cheaper
Old 07-05-2012, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by andy-lswon
Most of the races I do are from around a 15 mph roll. After talking to a very helpful member on here I'm going with the circle 2e which is a 4000 stall. I like how you put that about making them feel the pain haha
Good to hear you low roll when you have to. Enjoy the Circle D, you won't be disappointed. Consider a beasty cooler like a Derale Atomic-Cool or B&M Hi-Tek to keep it alive and kicking. Check out my trans tuning sticky in this section for some pointers on tuning the lockup if you have tuner access.

Cheers.


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Old 07-05-2012, 07:24 AM
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A4's suck at roll racing period. Ive had 3 autos from a stock stall, to a ss3600, to a 4000 vig. The vig is the loosest around town but to be honest the shift extension on both the yank and the vig is pretty much the same. Weird. Custom is the best converter. I would call Chris at circle d and have him spec you one. I bet it will be anything from 3500-4000 considering the stock LS1 torque peak of like 4400.
Old 07-07-2012, 11:51 PM
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I went with the 2e. Now just looking into shift kits and whatever else I need to help the trans live
Old 07-08-2012, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by CoolAid
Embrace the dig! You need your full off the line torque multiplication from the converter and 3.06:1 first gear! If the M6s are bitching about not being able to launch, than do a 10-15 MPH roll. That way everyone is rolling, and it will be easier for them to rev up and launch without a dead weight car to move. Be prepared to pedal the gas and get it to hook. Manual shift first into second so it doesnt dump you into second at low speed if you pedal the gas. Once fully in second, push to D and teach them the meaning of pain.
i dont ever drop gears like your saying to. heard it can **** up a tranny. i personally do low rolls 20-25 with it in D. but then again i rarely race.
Old 07-08-2012, 12:18 AM
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Im got a junky tci super street fighter in my bolt on 98z. Its pretty loose for daily driving but does ok at the track and roll racing.

My next one will be a Yank.
Old 07-30-2012, 02:13 PM
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Now I'm trying to choose what cooler to go with
Old 07-30-2012, 02:14 PM
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