shippershack

You guys with the larger stalls....do you have trouble with your engine cutting out in parking lots? I've got a Vig 3200, and I'm thinking it drags down the engine to the point of cutting out. Any advice? A regear?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

No such problem occurring with my Yank SS3600.

ramairetransam

iTrader: (18)

its a tune issue if your stalling in a parking lot or anywhere.

Monte4ever

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the stall is not loose enough. It may need to be adjusted (restall) if it is dragging down the motor to the point of stalling out. Is it pushing thru the brakes?

mrvedit

What idle speed is the engine trying to maintain?
A cam like that will need 900 or 950.
As ramairetransam says, it will need a tune if it is lower; also assume it was tuned after installing the cam.

However, if this problem suddenly started, it is possible that you overheated the TCC in the converter and it is now dragging.

Scoggin Dickey

iTrader: (34)

I disagree on the necessary idle speed, it should not need 900+ for a 228/232 cam. 750-800 is all it should need if tuned properly.

A converter shouldn't "drag" the engine down, it should do quite the opposite. If this car tuned well? Does it surge? Does it drop real low when you give it a little gas and just let off? It could be a mechanical problem, but it's not the most likely scenario.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

As mentioned, check the tune. A 3200 stall is not big at all, and even if it was a 5000 stall, it shouldn't drag the engine as you described.

Camaro396

iTrader: (14)

A bigger stall should do the opposite being looser, it should free up engine RPM instead of dragging it down. I can sit at a light in 1st gear with my foot off the brake and the car doesn't move with my 8" converter.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

In my opinion it should be a tuning issue or mechanical issue as stated by Scoggin Dickey also. That still isnt that big and even if it was a bigger stall it shouldnt drag as you are explaining. I would consider talking to your tunner and have him take a look at it.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

There's no way a 3200 RPM converter is dragging
your idle down. What's happening is the lighter
mass is aggravating and exposing the instability of
the idle RPM control loop. You changed the natural
frequency of the system and other mods probably
were destabilizing but the "flywheel mass" covered
them up, some. Before.

shippershack

I'm two, week-long tunes into the process, and still they think that my Vig 3200m which I bought open-box (new, but not installed) geared for an LS1 like mine, but not my specific setup perhaps...they think the stall is what is pulling the engine revs down to stall out. I idle way too high most of the time as she surges constantly around 1200-1500....and it takes forever to her to come down to 900ish. The tuner state that they can't get enough air at idle with the Fast 92 TB to have a reliable idle,and for it to start reliably when cold....becuase if it drops below 60 degrees, I can't start it without giving her gas....opening up the TB. I adjust the screw on the TB to open her...starts a bit better now, but I stall like crazy in parking lots with changing gears, or when I brake quickly from 50mph to stop...she stalls out too. That and she cut out after I revved her in neutral going 40mph. Frustrating and scary to drive as the steering locks up when she cuts out.
Jimmy Blue, you gave me advice in the tuning forum. It sounds like you know your stuff. Do you tune? I many need another look at it by another tuner. They think a different TB with a larger idle air port and a re-stall by Vig would solve it? Any other ideas?

TwitchZ28

iTrader: (3)

Idk man. I have this issue somewhat. Do this real quick.

Pull your tps sensor out, key the car up but don't start it, leave it there for 10 seconds, repeat 4-5 times until it throws a check engine code. Then reset the code and see if the issue goes away for a bit.

I get that problem sometimes when the Idle air control tries to re-learn the idle while rolling or something and it starts dipping to 500rpm, then surging to 1200, over and over then levels out. It's in the tune man. If resetting your tps codes fixed it temporarily then it's in the tune, and it's the idle air control.

mrvedit

As everyone here is saying, a higher stall puts LESS load on the engine not more. Sorry, but sounds like you are getting bad local advice; if they don't know that a higher stall will NOT pull down your idle, I doubt they know how to tune a performance car. Jimmy's idea that the much-lower mass/weight of the a bigger stall is exposing a bad tune sounds reasonable.

If your engine is constantly surging, then the tune is definitely off. Lots of people here have figured out how to tune the FAST TBs and get the idle right.

I misread your cam specs when I suggested 900-950 idle speed. But it shouldn't be that hard to target 900 rpm, and once that is perfect, go lower with a bit more fiddling. I realize this is a bit more difficult if you have someone else tune for you.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

the 9-10 inch stalls definitely idle harder. youre losing almost half the rotating mass compared to a stock converter. the idle will def take some time to work with on transitions especially. ive been chasing this on my buddies car for a bit but its hard to dial in the the base airflow table when wants to keep changing randomly after a period of time. itll be great for 2-4 weeks then suddenly hate life. im wondering if an old IAC valve is too blame as well.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Your problems are 100% tune related.

Going off that last post, find a new tuner!!

Nick Williams

iTrader: (2)

Take your car back to them. Have them change the throttle body to one one of mine. Get the converter re-stalled.

If it still doesn't idle and start without throttle input, I will pay the bill in full and you won't be out of one cent.

shippershack

Nick that sounds like a deal. I like that you stand behind your product! The Fast 92 Throttle body design must be flawed if a semi-simple setup like mine is doomed. I do believe that these guys know their tuning, and that is why I drove 5 hours times 3 to get to their shop. They are stand up guys and still recommend them. If it comes down to the TB swap and re-stall, then great...prayers answered. It just sucks that I can't drive the car after all the headaches and expense I've been through as it is tough to get excited about new horsepower when you can't drive it safely. I guess the lesson here is don't buy a torque converter unless it is made specifically for your build and stay away from Fast 92 TB due to their crappy idle air port flow design. A couple lessons I am learning. Anybody want to buy a slightly used, practically new, Fast 92 TB? Looks I'm swapping for a Nick Williams design and re-stall...hope Vigilante honors the one free re-stall in the first year. Does anyone know if that is still good if you are not the original owner of the TC?

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Nick, I don't understand. I see no way this is the TBs fault... This seems 100% tune related, which in case no matter the intake/TB combo, it isn't going to run correctly.

Why offer a deal as such with very little chance of it actually working?

Nick Williams

iTrader: (2)

You guys don't know all the details and I don't care to get into writing a novel about it. Basically the IAC passage on his throttle body has a limited working range and airflow capability. It is all the way open on cold starts and almost shut when at hot idle. Adjust the set screw or drill a hole in the blade all you want, you won't change that problem. Throw in the fact that the converter is wrong and then you really have an issue.

Do you really think I would offer that deal if I wasn't sure?

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Since the TB is ****.. How much?