Transmission option for current build
 

I have come to a stand still and dont know what route to take with my transmission. Performabuilt has a stage 3 4l60e transmission that can handle up to 800 rwhp, but if my ride gets close to those numbers in a full weight car 3650 empty, how long would it last in texas heat?
Should I be ok, or should I think about going 4l80? The l80 requires so much more, and would like to know if the wait to save $ would be worth it. Or just go with l60 from performabuilt and be on the road again.

Advice and suggestions are more than welcome... thx!

Do it once 4l80,the 60 is not going to last at those numbers.

If I was at or above 600hp I'd go 80e without a second thought

80 no question about it. Do it once and do it right.

80e...

Thanks guys... I was hoping the 60 would hold from a sponsor. Well, the bird might just have to sit a while longer.
And now the research on how to make 80e conversion!... ugh!!

It's not that a sponsor can't build one to hold that, I feel FLT and RPM is capable. But they're super expensive and at that point it makes more sense to get a built 4L80 for longevity and return on the dollar.

80 wont even break a sweat holding that power vs a 60 has to be built to the hills to "maybe" hold that power and if it does its only a matter of time until it goes. Just my .02

How many junkyard 60s do you know of that will hold 800rwtq in a 45-5000lb truck with only a shift kit?! Lol

Just for comparison... what does a Built 4l80e swap go for?

Correct me if im wrong on the $$$ amounts
Built 4l80e $2600
Black box $400
Stall $1200
Modded drive shaft $600
Extra computer stuff $200
Brackets and miscellaneous $350
Popping a wheelie... Priceless, lol... jk.
So lets say around $5, 500 so far... right? And lets not forget all the exhaust custom bends and all the banging in of the tunel.
Yeah.. lets call it $6k.

Or

I can test out FLT's newly revamped level 7 4l60e that can handle 800 rwhp with no problems, and its drop in with no mods required.
Set back $3,800-$3,900 bucks and even tho it has a 6mo warranty, I could always send it back for repairs or to freshen it up at minimal cost. I know this because I talked to one of the guys that work their, not chuck I think his name was, Adam? And explained the ins and outs and why he thought my set up and non daily driven ride would be good with the 60. The reason I called was to ask about built 4l80s and ended up with a full run down on the new program the have for the l60s since Jan-Feb of this year.

I am still weighing both out... and also have to consider cost. My ride wont always be maxed on hp... It will see the occasional kill mode n2o shot. And very tamed when NA.

Lets keep the debate going... maybe a sponsor will jump in the convo. Still shopping around.

Built 4l80e $2600------$2100 - $2600
Black box $400--------Got mine for free with the build
Stall $1200------------ Same cost as a 60 $700
Modded drive shaft $600----Reuse stock just change the yoke.
Extra computer stuff $200-- MVB
Brackets and miscellaneous $350?????
Popping a wheelie.

Plus I like gear ratios of the 80 over the 60.

Its cheaper to do an 80e once than have a 60 blow up on you.

If i were to do it again i would have went with a th400/80e from the get go and saved myself the headache and car being down for another month

Why black box? If your going full auto you dont need that.

Drive shaft you just need to change the yoke on the stock shaft

Dont know anyone that had to change there exhaust setup either.

4L80E Conversion Costs:

Stage 2 transmission with no discounts- $2600
Shipping- $150
Converter- $450-1250 (non billet 245mm converter would be $450, billet converters start at $850, triple discs are more.)

You'll need in addition:
Crossmember ($175-240)
Yoke ($75-up)
Ujoint- $20
Conversion harness ($200) you can save this and do it yourself but will most likely need an extension.
Dipstick $75
Reprogramming (free if you have the software already, more if not).

I'm telling you from experience get the 80!!! just look at my sig and yes i still have the 4L60E lol saving money to get the 80. ill tell you how bad the 60E is, i had headers, lid and a tune my tranny blew up on the drag strip, to rebuild it it coasted me almost 3 grand i now have a 3600 stall in it well after a few years it started slipping and didnt really notice it till i got the cam put in it then all my gears was going out coasted another 1100 to fix it then after a few days it went out again the yoke broke that time it was free since it is under warranty. So get the 80E or spend enough money fixing the 60E when you could have had the 80e in the first place and not worry about it breaking on you.

It looks like I may start shopping around for a 4l80 at this point...

thats good or a well built TH400 probably would be cheaper if you dont mind only having three gears.....

I dont know how ugly it is not having OD, so use to it by now, I do the occasional cruise on this car and know I'll need it then.

I'm also looking as well especially since Yank now offers the SS series converters for the 80E. I've read somewhere on here that the 80E doesn't have an aggressive 1st gear as compared to the 60E though. I personally am looking into getting an RPM built unit.

Other than the holding ability, the gear split would be my # 1 reason to go l80. With the ultra low 1st gear in the 60,traction can be an issue, then after you blow the tires off in first, you have a huge split to 2nd that can drop you out of the peak TQ. Its like comparing the older 2004R to a 700R4, IMO the 200 splits are much better.

I'm a huge fan of doing it right the first time!!! You'll wind up spending more in the long run once things start to break.