Should I go to a ss4000 from a ss3600. Now considering a fti converter
#21
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I am in this conversation right now with some people on The Bullet and Chris at Circle D. I am sending mine back for a re-stall. Even if you do get a custom converter built, once you get to a certain point, you have to decide if you are after a converter maximized for nitrous or one that is optimal for N/A.
From what people have been sharing with me, for street/strip LS motors like ours, the tighter (higher STR) 3600 converter vs the loser(lower STR) 4000+ converter is pretty much the decision you will be up against for a street strip style LS car anyway.
It appears we cannot have our cake and eat it too.
For me, I think I am going to have the converter as lose as possible and still handle a 200 shot. I am guessing the is going to be the higher STR 3600-3800 sized converter.
From what people have been sharing with me, for street/strip LS motors like ours, the tighter (higher STR) 3600 converter vs the loser(lower STR) 4000+ converter is pretty much the decision you will be up against for a street strip style LS car anyway.
It appears we cannot have our cake and eat it too.
For me, I think I am going to have the converter as lose as possible and still handle a 200 shot. I am guessing the is going to be the higher STR 3600-3800 sized converter.
#22
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I think I'm wanting to go the same route as you, I want it to run as hard as possible N/A but be able to handle a 150 shot. I've even considered running a looser/4k converter and only spray a 100 shot. Most of the time the car is street driven and rarely sees the track. Nitrous is hardly used but I like to know its there if needed.
#26
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Me neither. I am drinking a Samual Smith's Ale right now.
Lemons, do you have a car these days or what? Last time I talked to you you were building a car and then it got wrecked or something? Then you were buying a Vette? Then you bought a daily driver F-body and started spending money on that? What's the story these days?
Lemons, do you have a car these days or what? Last time I talked to you you were building a car and then it got wrecked or something? Then you were buying a Vette? Then you bought a daily driver F-body and started spending money on that? What's the story these days?
#27
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im running an 80 in my car with the ss3600 and 373 gears and it seems to have trouble leaving na but leaves decent on a 150 shot. ive considered restalling to a 4000 as well. my buddy runs a pt4000 and that car leaves hard as hell na
#29
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No way a 3600 is tighter than stock I've had an FTI in my car for about 5 years and it's worked flawlessly as of now and I love it. 3800 looks good to me why not be in the middle? 4000 is too much for DD IMO
#30
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I think thats what im going to go with. I don't drive mine every day so I could probably handle a 4k but I don't want to blow through the converter a ton on spray. 3800 sounds like a perfect mix
#33
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Few of my friends have some circle d , a phoenix etc. and theirs seem to be loose and rev up pretty good before they take off
My car came from Missouri actually maybe close to you I cant remember, ill have to look.
My car came from Missouri actually maybe close to you I cant remember, ill have to look.
#36
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I have a FTI 3800 converter(2.1 str) spec'd for a power adder. With 3.73 gears it takes about an extra 500rpm to get the same acceleration as the stock stall. Basically to get the same acceleration at 2k with the stock stall it takes 2500rpm with the FTI. Shift extension is great, if I shift at 6200, the rpm drops back to around 5k. I absolutely love it, best mod I have done to the car next to the kooks true duals which eliminated that nasty kackle/rasp at 2500rpm that ls motors are known for.
#37
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I also have an FTI converter, its a 9.5" billet triple disc 3800 (2.15 STR) nitrous spec converter for my 4L85E tranny. My 98 SS with Moser 12 bolt, 4L85E tranny , and all the aftermarket suspension and 3 1/2" exhaust is no lightweight by any means 3775-3800 lb raceweight.
The FTI converter being spec'd for nitrous is a little tight for an all motor pass. During this summer I have made about 24 passes on motor with it, best so far has been 1.63 60 ft on a 11.27 @ 121.17 mph pass. The converter has very good street manners though, not bad to drive around at all. I had asked Greg to give me the best all around converter he could as far as driveability and motor vs nitrous track passes. I think he did well with this converter. I have only made 4 nitrous passes so far, but I do not have the nitrous coming in early enough to really take advantage of the converter and see what it is capable of yet. I have had two passes on the( 150 shot) juice that have been 10.375 @ 131.04 mph on a 1.55 60 ft, and another at 10.376 @ 131.59 mph on a 1.61 60 ft.
If I get my nitrous coming in sooner I feel confident that it will 60 ft in the low to mid 1.4s. I would like to see better 60 ft times on motor, but for something that is truly driveable I cant really complain too much. After I get a 9.90 slip on the nitrous I might take the converter out and let Greg loosen it up some to get some some more aggressive 60 ft times on motor and try to get some 10.90s on motor during the good weather we will have coming in the next few months.
The FTI converter being spec'd for nitrous is a little tight for an all motor pass. During this summer I have made about 24 passes on motor with it, best so far has been 1.63 60 ft on a 11.27 @ 121.17 mph pass. The converter has very good street manners though, not bad to drive around at all. I had asked Greg to give me the best all around converter he could as far as driveability and motor vs nitrous track passes. I think he did well with this converter. I have only made 4 nitrous passes so far, but I do not have the nitrous coming in early enough to really take advantage of the converter and see what it is capable of yet. I have had two passes on the( 150 shot) juice that have been 10.375 @ 131.04 mph on a 1.55 60 ft, and another at 10.376 @ 131.59 mph on a 1.61 60 ft.
If I get my nitrous coming in sooner I feel confident that it will 60 ft in the low to mid 1.4s. I would like to see better 60 ft times on motor, but for something that is truly driveable I cant really complain too much. After I get a 9.90 slip on the nitrous I might take the converter out and let Greg loosen it up some to get some some more aggressive 60 ft times on motor and try to get some 10.90s on motor during the good weather we will have coming in the next few months.
Last edited by floman; 10-05-2013 at 10:04 AM.
#38
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I have a FTI 3800 converter(2.1 str) spec'd for a power adder. With 3.73 gears it takes about an extra 500rpm to get the same acceleration as the stock stall. Basically to get the same acceleration at 2k with the stock stall it takes 2500rpm with the FTI. Shift extension is great, if I shift at 6200, the rpm drops back to around 5k. I absolutely love it, best mod I have done to the car next to the kooks true duals which eliminated that nasty kackle/rasp at 2500rpm that ls motors are known for.
I also have an FTI converter, its a 9.5" billet triple disc 3800 (2.15 STR) nitrous spec converter for my 4L85E tranny. My 98 SS with Moser 12 bolt, 4L85E tranny , and all the aftermarket suspension and 3 1/2" exhaust is no lightweight by any means 3775-3800 lb raceweight.
The FTI converter being spec'd for nitrous is a little tight for an all motor pass. During this summer I have made about 24 passes on motor with it, best so far has been 1.63 60 ft on a 11.27 @ 121.17 mph pass. The converter has very good street manners though, not bad to drive around at all. I had asked Greg to give me the best all around converter he could as far as driveability and motor vs nitrous track passes. I think he did well with this converter. I have only made 4 nitrous passes so far, but I do not have the nitrous coming in early enough to really take advantage of the converter and see what it is capable of yet. I have had two passes on the( 150 shot) juice that have been 10.375 @ 131.04 mph on a 1.55 60 ft, and another at 10.376 @ 131.59 mph on a 1.61 60 ft.
If I get my nitrous coming in sooner I feel confident that it will 60 ft in the low to mid 1.4s. I would like to see better 60 ft times on motor, but for something that is truly driveable I cant really complain too much. After I get a 9.90 slip on the nitrous I might take the converter out and let Greg loosen it up some to get some some more aggressive 60 ft times on motor and try to get some 10.90s on motor during the good weather we will have coming in the next few months.
The FTI converter being spec'd for nitrous is a little tight for an all motor pass. During this summer I have made about 24 passes on motor with it, best so far has been 1.63 60 ft on a 11.27 @ 121.17 mph pass. The converter has very good street manners though, not bad to drive around at all. I had asked Greg to give me the best all around converter he could as far as driveability and motor vs nitrous track passes. I think he did well with this converter. I have only made 4 nitrous passes so far, but I do not have the nitrous coming in early enough to really take advantage of the converter and see what it is capable of yet. I have had two passes on the( 150 shot) juice that have been 10.375 @ 131.04 mph on a 1.55 60 ft, and another at 10.376 @ 131.59 mph on a 1.61 60 ft.
If I get my nitrous coming in sooner I feel confident that it will 60 ft in the low to mid 1.4s. I would like to see better 60 ft times on motor, but for something that is truly driveable I cant really complain too much. After I get a 9.90 slip on the nitrous I might take the converter out and let Greg loosen it up some to get some some more aggressive 60 ft times on motor and try to get some 10.90s on motor during the good weather we will have coming in the next few months.
#39
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Well 1 thing is for sure. If you do not like it I do stand behind my product 100%!!!. We custom build these converters for your application. there is more than 1 way to achieve the desired stall and each will have different driving characteristics. As far as the person who posted that we slowed his car down, Please send it back and I will make it right or refund your money. We try very hard to hit the combination perfectly the first time but there are also other things to consider such as where the camshaft timing is in the motor, tune, and if we were told the truth of the combo in the first place. Then sometimes we flat out MISSED. This is where we pride our self with customer service and make it right!! I promise you will be happy.
Greg
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
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FTI Converter build sheet
FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
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FTI Converter build sheet
#40
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Well 1 thing is for sure. If you do not like it I do stand behind my product 100%!!!. We custom build these converters for your application. there is more than 1 way to achieve the desired stall and each will have different driving characteristics. As far as the person who posted that we slowed his car down, Please send it back and I will make it right or refund your money. We try very hard to hit the combination perfectly the first time but there are also other things to consider such as where the camshaft timing is in the motor, tune, and if we were told the truth of the combo in the first place. Then sometimes we flat out MISSED. This is where we pride our self with customer service and make it right!! I promise you will be happy.
Greg
Greg
Thats what I like to hear Greg, you just made my decision very easy. You'll definitely be hearing from me soon.