MTchevy1

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys. I have a fresh 4L60e in my s10 behind a 5.3. I'm using a B&M pro ratchet shifter. When I leave the shifter in drive, it shifts great through all the gears. When I shift manually from 1-2, the shift is instant. When I shift 2-3, there's like a 2 second delay before it actually shifts. The shift feels normal, no slip, it just isn't instant. Would a shift kit correct this? Or anything I can change in my tune?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Normal. You can't manually shift a 4l60 on the 2/3 because of the retarded delay.

MTchevy1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. So there's no way to get rid of that delay? What do people normally do with these transmissions? Set the WOT shift point where you want it and then just leave it in drive?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Basically yes. Or anticipate the delay and click the shifter early if you like. I generally start in D for stoplight or freeway rolls. For mid level stuff (say 20-45mph) I will go in 2nd and hold. Once we go WOT I click to D early and let the computer do an auto 2/3 shift. As long as you click early enough in the rpms the computer will resume command in time for it to make the shift correctly. If you wait too long, you get a delay and often end up on the rev limiter. Understand, this delay happens even when the computer shifts, but it can anticipate it and the tuner tunes for it. As an example, I command my 2/3 at 6100. It typically completes the shift between 6400-6450 when warm/hot. With a 6500 limiter I was cutting it very close AND i found when the trans temp was below 120 degrees it couldn't complete the shift in time and I saw the limiter often. By raising my limiter to 6700, now I have a wider cushion and can give the trans the extra split second it needs during the odd slower shift or cold fluid shift.

CAMSTER

iTrader: (10)

I'm familiar with the 4l65 and didn't take past the first try to learn just can't beat the transmission so racing no mater the speed is in D as oppose to OD.

There's a lot to be had by tuning transmission, where the gain is.

Down shifting manually plays in disrupting TCM and trannie does this itself faster than manual.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Downshifting manually allows the clutches to grab before applying power to them. Easier on the trans by far in my humble opinion.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Tune the trans to shift how you want WOT and race in OD if it's stock, better option is install a Trans Go HD1 kit and a Sonnax HD 2-3 shift valve and then race it in D.

I have a ratchet shifter as well and while it's fun for playing around, let the computer do the racing.

mrvedit

A lot of people don't understand that unlike a TH350/TH400, moving the shifter up does not force an immediate upshift. It only gives the computer "permission" to upshift when it sees fit. The tuned MPH for the throttle position must be reached before the upshift occurs.

Thunderstuck507's comment about racing in OD is also correct.

And 01ssreda4's comment about manually downshifting before going WOT is also a good idea for max trans life. However his experience with the tuned shift points is the opposite of mine, perhaps because I am using a '02 PCM. I set my shift point to e.g. 7100 and it then shifts at 6900 without reaching the 7000 cut off. It seems the PCM anticipates a slow (stock) shift, but I built my trans for super fast shifts.

Jake the SSnake

iTrader: (11)

Im fighting this too. I have it pretty good in OD, but it really drags it out in D. I've already got it set for like a 900 rpm window and it still isnt enough some times.

mrvedit

Read again what Thunderstruck507 said - race in [OD] and not in [D3].
When you race in [D3] (without the special valve), the overrun clutches also engage during the 2-3 shift, diverting fluid/pressure away from the 3/4 clutch which may cause it to slip.
That is exactly why it is shifting better for you in [OD] than [D3].

Jake the SSnake

iTrader: (11)

It's a built trans and its supposed to have the Sonnax valve from what i remember. Maybe it doesn't though?

mrvedit

Here is an easy way to tell:
Put the shifter in [D3] and speed up to 3rd gear. Then coast or slightly brake to slow down. If the valve is installed, then as the car slows down enough for the trans to shift into 2nd gear, you will definitely feel the downshift. This is because the overrun clutch stays engaged during the 3-2 shift and the engine is forced to suddenly speed up. (Think of an abrupt downshift with a manual trans.)

Jake the SSnake

iTrader: (11)

Awesome, I will definitely do this next time out. Thanks!

savage388

Very interesting, Ive always wondered why when I leave my shifter in d I feel it kind of jerk from 3-2 when I'm off the gas. Previous owner had it built but had no clue what was done to it.
Sorry for the hijack, but I'll agree you'll definitely know if you have the valve, you can't miss it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need to verify your mph is set right. I've heard it will give fits if its not set close. The tricky part is coordinating your mph vs rpm. Example on a 2/3 shift: we wanna shift at 6500 rpms, that equals 70 mph. If we command say 6200 it will complete in time. What mph is 6200? Say its 64 mph. Then we want to set our shift mph for say 61 or 62 so the mph requirement is met first (around 6k rpm), then the rpm criteria is met second and the trans will shift based on that. Mph must be met first. And yes when I get it tuned on the ragged edge in OD, it hits the limiter in D. So I tune in D because that's where I race and its the slower of the two. My trans builder recommend racing in D, but I was doing it before he suggested it. No trans failures to date.

Mrvedit, FYI, I'm running an 02 operating system so it should function the same as yours.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I always raced mine in D previous to installing the Sonnax valve and my 3-4 clutches (alto red eagle) were shot after a couple years. I installed the Sonnax valve and that was enough to make it not slip until a torque converter failure forced me to pull and go through the trans (even though 3 of the clutches were completely down to metal and coned it was working thanks to the valve).

I replaced the 3-4 clutches with BW Hi Energy set up as Mrvedit suggests, installed a wide carbon band, and put it back together with new seals and such. All the other clutches looked new.

Jake the SSnake

iTrader: (11)

Ok, I see what you're saying. I was using a gear calculator at first but it was quite a bit off due to my 4000 stall I'm guessing. I may have my "mph" shift points too low, if that's possible. I'll try to coordinate the lower rpm with the speed. Either way I've got lots of things to try. Thanks for the help and sorry for hi-jacking the thread

mrvedit

I have personally not found the WOT shift mph as critical as 01ssreda4.
I simply set it to correspond to about 6200 rpm and then change the WOT shift RPM to the desired values, typically around 7000.
I do make sure the part throttle shift table at the 94% and 100% columns has the same MPH values as the WOT shift table.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^yes that's important as well. Want to make sure everything matches.