4l60e vibration in park and leaking oil seal
01-01-2015, 05:09 PM
#1
4l60e vibration in park and leaking oil seal Last year I had the trans fully rebuilt in my 2002 Camaro SS after blowing it up on the street. I had the shop put in a new rear main seal made by Fel-pro. As soon as I left the shop I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel around 1500 rpm that was very noticeable mostly in park and now about 8 months later while the car is in storage and i am starting it occasionally the rear main seems to be leaking pretty good again.
My question is: what might be causing the vibration? The new PTC 3600 stall, bad original flexplate with 128,000 miles on it, also what route to go if the seal is bad such as brand of seal and install method.
Thanks in advance!
My question is: what might be causing the vibration? The new PTC 3600 stall, bad original flexplate with 128,000 miles on it, also what route to go if the seal is bad such as brand of seal and install method.
Thanks in advance!
01-13-2015, 08:51 AM
#3
Moderator
The 4L60E rarely causes vibration; extremely rarely in Park. With vibration in Park, I would suspect the converter, flexplate or even engine. Was the trans mount changed? Poly mounts will greatly amplify any minor vibration.
Since your rear seal is leaking again I would think about replacing the slide yoke; any driveshaft shop can do that for you. Replacing the rear seal does not require removing the trans, only the driveshaft and unbolting the tail housing.
Since your rear seal is leaking again I would think about replacing the slide yoke; any driveshaft shop can do that for you. Replacing the rear seal does not require removing the trans, only the driveshaft and unbolting the tail housing.
01-13-2015, 12:06 PM
#4
TECH Addict
Mrvedit I think he is saying that the rear engine seal is leaking after having the shop replace when the trans was rebuilt.
If the vibration is there even when the trans is in park, most likely it is the torque converter that is vibrating. You can try unbolting the torque converter, push it back from the flexplate as far as possible and start engine. If the vibration went away I would suspect the torque converter is out of balance. You can try this two times; it’s a long shot but may work. Unbolting the torque converter turn it until the next lug aligns up with the hole in the flexplate and bolt it up again and see if the vibration went away.
As for the rear main seal maybe it wasn’t installed correctly, the rear cover is out of alignment or the vibration has something to do with the crankshaft and is also causing the seal to leak.
If the vibration is there even when the trans is in park, most likely it is the torque converter that is vibrating. You can try unbolting the torque converter, push it back from the flexplate as far as possible and start engine. If the vibration went away I would suspect the torque converter is out of balance. You can try this two times; it’s a long shot but may work. Unbolting the torque converter turn it until the next lug aligns up with the hole in the flexplate and bolt it up again and see if the vibration went away.
As for the rear main seal maybe it wasn’t installed correctly, the rear cover is out of alignment or the vibration has something to do with the crankshaft and is also causing the seal to leak.
01-13-2015, 08:34 PM
#5
Moderator
Ah, rear engine seal.
Since I am currently building an LS3, I have been reading about that tricky seal.
It has a "reverse lip" which means the lip has to go toward the front of the engine, plus it has to be installed dry. If the lip flips backward you will have a major leak. A special installer helps, although GM parts supplies it with a simple plastic installer.
Here is a thread on it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-oil-seal.html
If the mechanic just pushed it on like any old seal, it will leak.
Since I am currently building an LS3, I have been reading about that tricky seal.
It has a "reverse lip" which means the lip has to go toward the front of the engine, plus it has to be installed dry. If the lip flips backward you will have a major leak. A special installer helps, although GM parts supplies it with a simple plastic installer.
Here is a thread on it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-oil-seal.html
If the mechanic just pushed it on like any old seal, it will leak.
Trending Topics
02-10-2015, 08:57 PM
#9
I found this thread also... Would anyone be able to shed some light on the different bolt sizes? I am wondering if I should just buy a yank 3600...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-change.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ll-change.html
02-24-2015, 10:17 PM
#11
Moderator
I think you just need to take it apart; the problem might then be obvious.
You didn't answer my question whether you have the original trans mount or a new one, and if a new one, whether it is OEM or Poly?
With the trans out I would check how the converter fits into the crank and onto the flexplate; something obvious my stand (or stick) out. The converter pilot should fit nicely into the crank when the pads are flush with the flexplate.
Make sure the 3 converter bolts and any spacers/washers are reasonably matched for weight.
You didn't answer my question whether you have the original trans mount or a new one, and if a new one, whether it is OEM or Poly?
With the trans out I would check how the converter fits into the crank and onto the flexplate; something obvious my stand (or stick) out. The converter pilot should fit nicely into the crank when the pads are flush with the flexplate.
Make sure the 3 converter bolts and any spacers/washers are reasonably matched for weight.