WhiteStallion00

iTrader: (1)

I'm swapping out my 4L60e with another 4L60e, can I do this without removing the converter from the flywheel? Or, alternately, can I leave the converter on the flywheel until after the tranny is removed?

nj02z

iTrader: (6)

No. The converter has to be fully engaged in the new trans or you will break the pump.I doubt you can leave the converter attached to the flywheel, there is not enough room to get the tranny back far enough to drop it down. Why don't you want to detach it from the flywheel?

WhiteStallion00

iTrader: (1)

My problem is that I have the car up 24" off the ground, which required a few "bad ideas" to get my jacks to get it up that high. It's resting with the front rotors on blocks (lug nuts tight and chocks in front and behind to prevent rolling) and in the rear, the frame is sitting on the blocks.

I've now discovered that since I put poly motor mounts in last summer, I can't drop the tranny enough to get to the top bolts unless I (very carefully) lift it up and move the front blocks to the frame so I can loosen the k-member. At this point, I'm just looking for anything that will save me a little time, and it seemed that pulling the converter off AFTER the tranny was out would be easier.

mrvedit

Carefully removing the tranny while the converter is still bolted to the flexplate is probably OK but you need to be sure the engine and trans are each separately supported so the trans input shaft does not damage the inside of the converter.
However on re-assembly you absolutely need to install the converter on the trans first.

jrpimp00

iTrader: (17)

the converter coming on or off with the trans shouldnt make a bit of difference in your situation. You just need to get to the top bell housing bolt, unless im missing something.

WhiteStallion00

iTrader: (1)

In my case, the junkyard tranny came with the converter, so I have that to fall back on. I've moved the blocks to under the frame and am going to go ahead and do it the right way, provided I can get the tc bolts out. I've already twisted an 8mm hex bit and the first one hasn't budged.

Seems like applying heat to the flex plate isn't a wise idea?

Also, since I'm basically going from stock to stock, will I need to put spacers in? Are the stock components that close to the edge of tolerance?

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

You might try a medium sized hammer and a brass punch to give a shock to the bolt threads and help them break free. If needed apply a little heat to the coverter bolt tabs afterwards. Some PB Blaster might also help before heating the tabs. Dont apply heat to the bolts themselves just the mounting tabs. I honestly cant imagine trying to install the converter into the trans pump housing with it up in the air bolted to the back of the flexpalte. What a nightmare that would be. I had poly engine mounts when I removed my trans. I simply let the trans hang as far down as its weight would allow and used about 4' worth of extensions to reach the top bolt from above the tailshaft area. A short wobble extension on the end usually gives the correct ammount of flex to get the socket on the bolt heads. I have done this on all 4 F-body's I have owned and its worked every time.

bbond105

If you are using cinder blocks to support your car you are taking a huge chance. Cinder blocks will break a lot of times. I have seen firsthand how easily they will break. Wooden blocks are good but never, ever use cinder blocks those things will get you killed.

black02-z28

iTrader: (8)

^^^This

Long extensions and go at it from the top.

WhiteStallion00

iTrader: (1)

No, not cinder blocks, I'm not suicidal Using blocks I built with a few 2x4s.


I wanted to relocate the oil pressure sender since I was right there, but I'm having a hell of a time locating anything that I can use as an adapter. Went to a couple parts stores and all I could dig up was 3/8 fittings.

Anyone know where I might find something to use? I have no problem using a tap/die (although I won't tap the block and take a chance dropping filings in). An M16 1.5 male to just about anything would be great, but something larger that I can die down to that should work too.

bbond105

That’s cool. I just didn’t want to hear of anyone getting hurt.

I saw a thread on here somewhere were someone used AN fittings and braded hose but I can’t remember the details. Try doing a search it may pull up what you need.

WhiteStallion00

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, I saw a few of those. I guess the important thing I forgot to mention is that I have to have the tranny back in by tomorrow, so I need to find something local