4L60E at high rpm?
06-18-2017, 11:13 PM
#4
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Any of the sponsor built 4L60E should have no trouble at 7500. For high RPM operation, a high RPM spring much be installed in the pump and the Transgo cage springs should probably be installed too. With those mods I shift as high as 7200 without problems.
06-19-2017, 07:20 PM
#5
Never mind guys. I give up, I will be going with a Turbo400 or maybe a 350. I will need to shift this baby way up to 8000+ rpm for optimum performance at the track. Also, its going to require an 8" 62-6400 rpm stall. I don't think theres any built 4L60E out there, no matter what level it would be that can withstand 8000+ rpm. Please disregard this post. Thank you.
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06-19-2017, 09:02 PM
#8
I was thinking about this as well. I'm wondering if my combo makes enough power to run a glide. Peak power is at 7500 rpm, peak torque is at 6400 rpm. Will need to be shift at 8000+ rpm.
06-20-2017, 07:52 AM
#9
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I'm still sticking with my 4l60e. Just sent it to rpm. I'm gonna get it built right once and for all. No more "local" builds. I know you keep going back and forth on transmissions and I have to. There really isn't one right or wrong decision. A well built 4l will work great for you as would a th350 a th200 a th400 and a powerglide. I think an efficient 3 speed will be a little "quicker" than a pg or 4l. If you are staying on motor and ok with spending some coin I'd look into the th200 or even better a proflite trans which would be the ultimate.
06-20-2017, 08:40 PM
#12
I doubt very much that a built 4L60E will be able handle these rpms(8000+), if it did, it would have to have a manual valve body, then your best bet would be back to TH350, or 400 with manual valve body. Yes you have manufacturer with their high level 4L60E that can handle 1000 hp thru boost/turbo, but then again they are not being spun up in the rpm range as you would with an all out naturally aspirated build. That is why you'll only see built TH350's,400's and glides in the racing scenes.
06-21-2017, 10:45 PM
#15
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I doubt very much that a built 4L60E will be able handle these rpms(8000+), if it did, it would have to have a manual valve body, then your best bet would be back to TH350, or 400 with manual valve body. Yes you have manufacturer with their high level 4L60E that can handle 1000 hp thru boost/turbo, but then again they are not being spun up in the rpm range as you would with an all out naturally aspirated build. That is why you'll only see built TH350's,400's and glides in the racing scenes.
Why not a 4L80E?
06-22-2017, 06:45 AM
#16
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Yes it's heavier but as you mentioned , my car dead hooks (at the track) and hits the DR's hard and doesn't need the 3.06 1st gear to get it out of the hole and the ratios are only .04 off the 350 it replaced.
And if I leave it in D3 or lower, when messing around on the street or making a pass it "should" be ok as it's partially a 400 which is stronger then the 350 I've been beating on for the last 15yrs.
That was a stock rebld with a shift kit.
06-23-2017, 12:47 PM
#18
I have had several going over 7,400 rpm over the years, and three going over 8,000 rpm. Use the Hi-rpm TransGo pump spring and use the "inner" spring from their Standard pump spring kit. Add the inner spring to the outer spring. This will keep line pressure up to well over 8,000 rpm. If it is a 13 vane setup, replace the 13 vane rotor with the 10 vane rotor. Leave the 13 vane slide in. This will have more volume and faster line pressure recovery on the shifts. If this is "drag racing only", find a good condition 7 vane rotor if you can, otherwise stay with the 10 vane rotor. Always use the steel rings from the TransGo pump kit. The standard kit and the Hi-rpm kit, steel rings are the same. You must use the TransGo 7-CS spring kit when going into the 8,000 rpm territory. Block off the checkball in the input drum under the 3-4 piston, and drill a .035" hole at the bottom of the 3-4 piston bore at the very outside edge just under where the piston seal touches the bottom of the bore. This will prevent centrifuging here (bringing on the 3-4 clutches) at the top of 1st and 2nd gear. This should give you an idea of what is needed to do this right.
Last edited by PBA; 06-23-2017 at 12:53 PM.
06-23-2017, 08:25 PM
#19
I have had several going over 7,400 rpm over the years, and three going over 8,000 rpm. Use the Hi-rpm TransGo pump spring and use the "inner" spring from their Standard pump spring kit. Add the inner spring to the outer spring. This will keep line pressure up to well over 8,000 rpm. If it is a 13 vane setup, replace the 13 vane rotor with the 10 vane rotor. Leave the 13 vane slide in. This will have more volume and faster line pressure recovery on the shifts. If this is "drag racing only", find a good condition 7 vane rotor if you can, otherwise stay with the 10 vane rotor. Always use the steel rings from the TransGo pump kit. The standard kit and the Hi-rpm kit, steel rings are the same. You must use the TransGo 7-CS spring kit when going into the 8,000 rpm territory. Block off the checkball in the input drum under the 3-4 piston, and drill a .035" hole at the bottom of the 3-4 piston bore at the very outside edge just under where the piston seal touches the bottom of the bore. This will prevent centrifuging here (bringing on the 3-4 clutches) at the top of 1st and 2nd gear. This should give you an idea of what is needed to do this right.
Can you build me one?
06-25-2017, 03:04 PM
#20
Moderator
It is always greatly appreciated when he posts his knowledge and "secrets" here.
Despite being a fan of the 4L60E/4L65E/4L70E for cars even in the 500-650 HP range, I would recommend a 4L80E above 650HP and recommend that for you.
For one a top-level 4L60E will all the billet parts and the mentioned 6-pinion front planet is going to cost $5000 and still won't be as strong as a moderately build 4L80E.