Best all-around transmission option?
#1
Restricted User
Thread Starter
Best all-around transmission option?
I sent emails with this question to a few well known transmission builders and site vendors a few weeks ago and was completely ignored, so I'll post here.
I need a transmission for my corvette, and I want an automatic.
The catch being (and I'm sure transmission builders hate hearing this), I need an all-around performer that can do street, drag, auto-X, and road race.
I'm about to toss my engine on the engine dyno, and I'm hoping for somewhere around 800-1000, in a 2000 lb car (without me in it). I'm currently running a stock TH400 and Holeshot 3000 converter, but I'm pretty sure I've done it in. No point in upgrading unless I plan on sticking with it, because the car has a C-beam (think torque arm) and not a traditional crossmember, so fabrication has to be done if I change transmissions.
I have LOTS of room for a large transmission cooler and overflow tank, so no issues there. I'm expecting it to be a manual valve body, engine braking, and possibly a trans-brake. I don't need overdrive, and weight is a concern. I'm hoping that a transmission built well for drag racing could be made to work on a road course with a proper overflow and cooler. I'll probably be using a ratchet shifter and not a gated shifter.
Could a TH350 be made to fit the bill? Is a TH400 a better choice? Is there something else I should be considering? Specific parts I should be considering or direction I need to take with the transmission?
I need a transmission for my corvette, and I want an automatic.
The catch being (and I'm sure transmission builders hate hearing this), I need an all-around performer that can do street, drag, auto-X, and road race.
I'm about to toss my engine on the engine dyno, and I'm hoping for somewhere around 800-1000, in a 2000 lb car (without me in it). I'm currently running a stock TH400 and Holeshot 3000 converter, but I'm pretty sure I've done it in. No point in upgrading unless I plan on sticking with it, because the car has a C-beam (think torque arm) and not a traditional crossmember, so fabrication has to be done if I change transmissions.
I have LOTS of room for a large transmission cooler and overflow tank, so no issues there. I'm expecting it to be a manual valve body, engine braking, and possibly a trans-brake. I don't need overdrive, and weight is a concern. I'm hoping that a transmission built well for drag racing could be made to work on a road course with a proper overflow and cooler. I'll probably be using a ratchet shifter and not a gated shifter.
Could a TH350 be made to fit the bill? Is a TH400 a better choice? Is there something else I should be considering? Specific parts I should be considering or direction I need to take with the transmission?
#3
Restricted User
Thread Starter
I did place one call, and it was a hassle. I asked them the same question, and if they could build for me and the estimated cost.
They didn't want to offer advice, they seemed more interested in having me telling them exactly what I wanted so they could write me an invoice.
They didn't want to offer advice, they seemed more interested in having me telling them exactly what I wanted so they could write me an invoice.
#4
Restricted User
Thread Starter
Oddly enough, I JUST got my first reply.
TH400 honestly seems like the way to go. Not only will it definitely be strong enough, but my car is already setup for one.
I guess what I should have asked, is what will it take to make a TH400 competitive for drag and road course?
TH400 honestly seems like the way to go. Not only will it definitely be strong enough, but my car is already setup for one.
I guess what I should have asked, is what will it take to make a TH400 competitive for drag and road course?
#5
11 Second Club
iTrader: (74)
I would look more into a TH350 if I were you. They consume less power, and can handle 800rw in a 3500lb car when built right, and I'm sure more in a really light car like yours. Converter will be key for road course, and adjusting the vacuum modulator or valvebody to not kickdown excessively will help too - or just manually shift it. Autox is easy, if you set it up right just leave it in 2nd gear after the initial start of the run.
#6
LS1Tech Sponsor
iTrader: (25)
I do not think you have called or emailed us if so we must have missed it which is strange as we generally answer within hours or less, Please feel free to give us a call at the 888 number or email us at info@performabuilt.com I am sure you will get answers.
Personally I would stay with a 400 imo
Personally I would stay with a 400 imo
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