clinebarger

Run a Wave/Cushion plate.

ElQueFør

I have almost made up my mind to ditch the T56 in my turbo 6.0 truck and put the 2wd 4L80 I have in its place. I love rowing gears, but at the end of the day I like stuff that is strong and affordable. I just don't see a 6 speed fitting the bill. I entertained the idea of selling the two T56s I have to buy a T56 magnum, but that still wouldn't be as reliable as a 4L80 I'm afraid.

Cline...... You have given me such good guidance on all the parts for this 4L80 that I was going to put behind the SBC for this Blazer, the whole reason I started this thread... I was wondering if you could point me in the direction of a good transbrake??? CKPerformance has a link on their site but it doesn't link to anything?????

I have already purchased everything you mentinoed in your previous post, TCC regulator, line presure booster kit... I went to Oklahoma Transmission Supply and got clutches, paper, rubber etc. And... an extra clutch and steel for the direct drum..... I was going to build one of these 4L80s for my Blazer with these parts, but I'm thinking I will push that back a little bit and instead build the first 4L80 for my turbo 6.0 truck.

I have everything I need except the shift kit w/ the TH400 direct piston and other goodies that you mentioned..... If I get that shift kit you mentioned, this one:
http://www.ckperformance.com/View/MA...LY-UPGRADE-KIT

Can that be used with a transbrake?

Game ova

Your car will be light years faster with the auto, good choice.

ElQueFør

Hahaha, yeah man you are right I'm sure, you think I'll miss rowing em though???

And it's a truck not a car

Game ova

I did the swap last winter, and haven't even thought about the 6 speed. If you have the right torque converter (VERY IMPORTANT btw) automatic is king. Continuous boost is heavenly .

ElQueFør

Yeah dude, that is one of the more alluring things for me at this point, the continual boost between shifts AND building a little boost off the line.....

So you swapped from an M6 and you have no regrets??? I have been looking and I can't find a SINGLE person who regrets doing it so.....

Dollars wise the 4L80 just makes sense. IF money was no object, I'd call up Lenco tomorrow and write them a check for 10K... But then I hear that you have to have 3 clutches with that setup. One in the vehicle, one on the shelf ready to swap in, and another getting relined....

Game ova

Only regret is not doing it sooner. This hydramatic is much like the feds, it NEVER misses... and it's cheaper. The thing you cannot do is, cheap out on the converter. Spend the money and be done with it, otherwise your truck won't run right..... and could even cost you a motor.

ElQueFør

That is definitely quotable right there.

I have two stock 4L80 converters, I was thinking about taking one down to a local converter shop and having them do a cut and clean and possibly restall it... Maybe that's not the thing to do after hearing you say that.

What kind of stall speed do you think I should be looking at for a 6.0 that is totally stock with a S475 turbo in a fullsize truck that I'd estimate weighs around 5K? The rear gears are 4.88 which was great with the T56..... I have some 3.42 or 3.55 laying around which will probably be better suited to the 80e.

Game ova

Promptly throw both converters in the trash, and call up PTC and have them send you a converter. It will be around $1,000 for the unit, but remember...a bad converter will make your rig slow. And those 4:88 gears. ... put them on Craigslist and install the 3:42....or higher. I'm Using 2:73 In a heavy f body and love them. In a light truck, a high gear like that would be wicked.

ElQueFør

Man your witty quips have me LOLing over here. Okay no hope for the stock converters being restalled, got it.

Yep. Exactly why I hung onto the gears this long. Don't remember where I found them. You think 5K is light? I guess it is lighter than bigger trucks.

Check out this vintage Hydramatic ad poster I found..... Pretty cool I think.
http://www.1954advance-design.com/Hy...h-m%20tank.jpg

Is it okay to use the stock flexplate?

Game ova

Oops... for some reason I thought you had a light truck. In that case 3:42 would likely be better. You could use a stock flexplate, but it would be a real shame if it came apart on you. I would go ahead and get an SFI approved one while you're there. I know it sounds like im not budget minded, but there are a couple places where it's good to spend the money and not do it twice.

ElQueFør

Yeah 5k isn't exactly the heaviest thing but it's not light like a unibody F car either lol.

I completely understand man. I have cheaped out enough times to learn that it's best to do it right the first time..... So are you 4L80? I thought for some reason you were TH400?

Did you look at that poster?!!

Game ova

I seen it, and it is dead on. The 400 Is nearly indestructible, although I did break mine twice last year..... once was my fault... the other was a freak occurrence. My 400 has a few parts borrowed from the 80, that's how closely related they are.

ElQueFør

Yeah I can't help but be tickled by things like that, it's the historian in me I guess. Really interesting to see that is the lineage. Sorry, I get to rambling about superfluous bullshit easily.

I do seem to recall from my only automatic experience years ago when I built a 4L60 that a 4L60 has a bunch of little **** you off parts whereas the 4L80/TH400 is all big beefy stuff easy to manipulate with hamfisted fingers like mine LMAO. At least that was my impression when I was tearing down both of the 4L80s I have.

Yeah that was my understanding is that a 4L80 is basically a TH400 with an OD and lockup TCC.

What happened in the case of your 400? I think I remember reading about it once on here but I can't be sure. Give me some details of your overall setup if you would please? I'm curious.

Game ova

The first time I broke it was at the track, tried to send it. That resulted in a broke rear end yoke, bent driveshaft ..... and when I checked the roller clutch it fell out in peices. That was when I went ahead and upgraded to the 4 clutch intermediate, the 3 clutch wasn't working out. The second time, I was making a turn at 5mph.... and it made a weird sound and loss drive pressure, that was when the forward drum pressure plate let go. The car is the typical 6.0 78/76 deal on e85, makes 745/1042.

ElQueFør

Just gonna send it! lol

I've made a little progress on putting one of these 4L80s I have together.

I can't get the forum to insert any photos? And now that PhotoSuckit has officially gone full faggotry not sure how to go about sharing photos? hmm.....

clinebarger

Use Imgur & embed the pictures. The image hosting on this site is very poor in my opinion.

ElQueFør

I've been taking lots of pictures so maybe I can post up my progress as some kind of super noob friendly how to that uses many photos to show how it's done. Pictures help me understand something so maybe I can document this to help others as it has helped me.


Here's one of the victims.



Everything spread out on the bench. I also have the other 4L80 laid out as a sanity check for the one I'm building up. And an ATSG manual which is occasionally helpful.



Starting to put the output carrier assembly together. Fresh bushing installed.



Dropping the thrust bearing race on with the shoulder pointing down to engage the chamfered edge of the bushing hole in the output shaft.




Then the thrust bearing.



Followed by the other thrust bearing race.



Thrust bearing looks like this installed. The shoulder of the first thrust bearing race is seen pointing towards the end of the rear ring gear. This is to engage the hole shown 4 pictures up on the output shaft assembly.



The OTHER side of the ring gear looks like this. Another thrust bearing will go here.



First a spacer. I believe this is model year specific? Cline can you confirm??



Then a thrust bearing race. This one has a shoulder on the outside lip which is facing UP as shown.



Then the thrust bearing itself as shown.



Followed by the other thrust bearing race which is oriented as seen here. Notice it fits INSIDE the other race you installed first which has the shoulder around the perimeter pointing UP in this pic.



Next it's time to put the rear ring gear, output shaft and output carrier together... I should add that the manual specifies .009-.020" IIRC of play or lash in the planet gears.... I didn't get a picture of that. I just grabbed a feeler gauge and a .009" did NOT fit , and .020" did so it's within spec. Just brushing on a little ATF here on the planet gears of the output carrier.



Also brushed on some ATF to the rear ring gear.




Lower the output carrier assemly onto the rear ring gear and output shaft.




Then install the big snapring to hold this assembly together.






This goofy plastic spacer goes on top of the output carrier assembly, between it and the reaction carrier assmebly???? cline is there something better for here????




The reaction carrier is lowered down next. I brush ATF over anything before it gets put together, ring gears, sun gears, bushings etc.



Then the sun gear gets dropped in. Face the chamfered ege of the sun gear DOWN. Or, towards the back of the trans/output shaft.




The center support in the vise. Getting ready to remove the 2nd from the top groove as part of the dual feeding of the direct clutches.



This is the direct drum with the clutches removed... Interestingly enough there is no direct clutch cushion plate..... AND.... there are 6 clutches that came out as opposed the the stock 5... Someone has probably been inside this trans before.



Here are the 6 clutches, 6 steels, the upper pressure plate and snapring that came out of the direct drum. Looks like first 5 clutches are stock BW and the 6th one is red like probably Alto??


This is about all the progress I've made currently. Replacing bushings as I get to them.






Cline: I found a thread where you mentioned how you liked to plug the Reverse feed in the center support.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-question.html


You said in that post above: "Keeps 3rd/Reverse oil from leaking between the Support & Case. A TV Exhaust checkball from a 700R4 works great.
Most times.....The cast iron around the hole will raise up a bit after knocking the checkball in, File it down as it will keep the Support from sealing to the case!!"
would you be kind enough to elaborate a little on this? And it's the hole on the right hand side of the above pic that is reverse feed which gets plugged correct?

ElQueFør

Man I want to buy the "Master shift recalibration and assembly upgrade kit" from CK Performance, but they absolutely will not answer the phone nor call me back. I'm a little reluctant to give my money to someone who won't talk to me on the phone. The main thing I wanted to ask them was if that kit has the parts to rollerize this 4L80..... Looks like I see the TH350 pump bearing and shims top right corner, but it would be nice to confirm....

I guess I need to start thinking about a different shift kit for this..... Obviously the HD2 kit is useless since I'm already inside the gearbox and have done the dual feed internally.

clinebarger