NikoKourm

So I have kind of great news. The transmission is back on and the truck is ready to go. I was able to get it to move in reverse with all the new components and it didn't explode on me, so that's a good thing.

I have a problem and I already think I know the answer to it. When I'm moving the lever to shift gears, I noticed that trying to shift back into "Park," the lever moves into its seat very freely but the dashboard doesn't state "Park" and I didn't get the feel of a shift into park. I had to go back to "Neutral" and quickly move it past "Reverse" to get it into "Park." It did this twice, at least both times I tried. Note, this only occurs when trying to shift back into park. So if I go from "Park" down to "Drive," each gear engages fine, it's going from "Neutral" back to "Park" that's the issue.

I think my problem is that I put the shift cable in the wrong orientation with respect to all the wires and hoses running along the transmission and transfer case. Sadly, since I wasted two hours reorienting the hose bracket at the top of the transmission (after putting the transfer case on and realizing the hose didn't reach), I wasn't able to test this theory since it got too dark and too cold to go back under the truck.

My question is, would a new neutral park safety switch have anything to do with this? I replaced it because the plastic for the top connector cracked off when taking it off. I don't know if I need to have this reprogrammed or something, my gut is no since these trucks are very basic for electronics underneath.

bbond105

It sounds like the shift linkage is a little out of adjustment, not pushing the lever all of the way forward. I like to adjust the linkage with the trans lever in neutral and the shift lever in neutral.

NikoKourm

That's a good idea since neutral is in the middle position. I take it that's two clicks over from the locked "Park" position for the parking pawl assembly (the rooster comb looking piece of metal that has the different positions), right?

NikoKourm

Alright so readjusting the shift linkage helped a lot. It was getting caught on the vent hoses (transmission/transfer case) going back and forth for each gear. I just placed it above everything and it all checked.

And...

I took her for a test drive and it seems I have done it again. Thirteen miles with no apparent problems (other than the brakes needing to be warmed up). I will need to double check the fluid level, I know I put 9.5 quarts out of the bottles I had left over. I presoaked everything and I put in probably 1/4 to 1/2 a quart in the torque converter to lubricate it up. I think I need less than 1 quart to make it to around 11 and I will be doing that promptly.

Again, thanks for the help guys. I know thirteen miles isn't a lot and I will need to drive it more to be more and more sure, but we'll see what happens after a couple of more miles (or hundreds of more miles).

Now back to those ball joints I was going to replace before all of this...

mrvedit

Congrats on a successful rebuild!

NikoKourm

Looks like the magic number was 13 quarts. It's been a good ride for the 120+ miles thus far.

243

Do you plan to check the pressures now for a baseline?

This is simply a question, I am reading threads in preparation for my rebuild.

NikoKourm

When the weather gets a bit warmer out and I'm willing to go under the truck again, I may do it.

If you need any suggestions along the way, feel free to ask. I figured out a few tricks in place of some of the tools people will tell you to buy.