Colder2012

Hey fellas, I have had about the most horrible week of my life dealing with this 4l60e. So I bought an RPM level 6 4l60e for my ls swapped 94 single cab. Got it installed along with the yank pro truck 3600 converter, man this thing is awesome. Kudos to RPM for building an awesome transmission. After the break in period I go out and make a couple test hits and do some tuning and BOOM the driveshaft comes apart in the top of 3rd around 120 mph. My luck. Pull the tranny out the next day because the tail housing is shattered and billet output shaft is bent. Upon disassembly of the transmission I find out that the case is cracked. So i put everything from the rpm transmission into another case that I had. End play clearances at the pump was .016 after assembly. Got it back in the truck and filled it with atf, start the truck, no forward movement in D4 or D3 from a stop. Reverse, d1, and d2 work fine. Nice firm shift from d1 to d2 but when I shift into d3 i have to let off the gas for it to shift, same for d4. Converter is locking and unlocking like it should. So i immediately suspected the sprag was in backwards, but you can unplug the plug on the side of the transmission and I have crisp positive shifts 1-3. Makes no sense to me. I am guessing it is something in the valve body or something electrical. Has anyone ever seen anything similar to this?? Thanks in advance for any help or advice

Fuhnortoner

Stupid but, did you double check fluid?

Colder2012

Yes, I checked it several times.

Colder2012

One thing to add - I can command gears 1-4 with hptuners when the shifter is in the corresponding position. For example, when the shifter is in d3 st a dead stop I can command 3rd gear on the scanner.

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing broken fwd sprag.

MaroonMonsterLS1

yep. forward sprag.

d1 and d2 apply the overrun clutches that do the job of the sprag.

when in d3 if you force it into 3rd, it will also bring on the overruns.
4th gear in d4 does not require the sprag, so it makes perfect sense that you have all of these corresponding gear responses.

Tear down and share some pics of how messed up the sprag looks

Colder2012

Man it's just crazy to me that I can pull the transmission fuse and it will shift perfectly fine? What is responsible for that

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

Broken pieces of the sprag jamming up at random times.

The fuse being pulled just puts it at max line pressure.

The sprag might jam when it's supposed to be free wheeling. It might slip when it's supposed to hold. When it's broken it's going to be erratic.

So you swapped everything into a different case and didn't bother to pop the clip off and check a part that commonly fails when the transmission comes to a slamming stop that bends an output shaft?

Colder2012

The output shaft bent from the driveshaft coming apart, not the sprag failing. No I did not check the input assemblies at all because the visible damage was in the low/reverse area.

Colder2012

Guess I'll be doing a full rebuild on it.

MaroonMonsterLS1

I mean, you already had to tear it down all the way down to fix all the low/reverse stuff and change the shaft. Why not inspect the rest when you were already in there?

Jays_SSZ28

iTrader: (2)

NO ****!
I'm guessing the driveshaft didn't just bend to **** in a drive thru. You were on full power or close. If it bent that output shaft AND broke the case that means everything in that transmission came to a very fast stop while under power, THE EXACT THING THAT BREAKS SPRAGS.

MaroonMonsterLS1

Delivery is a little brass but...no denying Jay is right here.

Doesn't make any sense to not go over EVERY part of that trans if it broke the BILLET output shaft and even split the case. If it did all that...why would you assume everything else in the trans is good? I'd be checking the input shaft/drum, sprag, planets, even the valve body and pump. If it flexed the case, and the pump and VB are bolted to the case...I would be looking it over