3000RPM Torque Converter Manners
09-12-2018, 04:54 PM
#1
3000RPM Torque Converter Manners Reverse pattern manual valve body 4L80 behind an LQ4 with Circle D Specialties 2A 3000rpm torque converter.
Can anyone shed light on how their car with a similar stall rating behaves when you get up to speed from a stop?
-I don't get much of a slight lurch forward with my foot on the brake when I put it into 1st, I'm used to getting mechanical feedback when a car is in drive and I get almost no feedback here. Reverse gives me a much more pronounced jolt, i would think partly because the gear ratio is lower and also because it never had the fluid flow problem drive had (boost valve stuck im pretty sure)
-It feels as if im dragging the brakes a little, the car will come to a stop if I let off the gas pedal (only drove 100yds and it did this)
-i have to give it +/-2000rpm to even get the car moving, shouldn't it start to move at idle?
I'm breaking in both this engine and a rebuilt 12 bolt (pretty tight) so could that be why this is happening?
I thought fluid flow may be a problem so I put the car on jacks and ran through the gears with enough throttle input to get the wheels moving. I also stabbed the brake pedal and gave it 2000rpm of stall once or twice in both drive and reverse to give it some heat. It definitely has enough fluid
I just fixed a h*ll of a couple problems with my transmission yesterday so i just want to make sure i don't have to re-fix it. (Scarcely low fluid, boost valve/reverse pressure valves came out, snap ring not seated)
Can anyone shed light on how their car with a similar stall rating behaves when you get up to speed from a stop?
-I don't get much of a slight lurch forward with my foot on the brake when I put it into 1st, I'm used to getting mechanical feedback when a car is in drive and I get almost no feedback here. Reverse gives me a much more pronounced jolt, i would think partly because the gear ratio is lower and also because it never had the fluid flow problem drive had (boost valve stuck im pretty sure)
-It feels as if im dragging the brakes a little, the car will come to a stop if I let off the gas pedal (only drove 100yds and it did this)
-i have to give it +/-2000rpm to even get the car moving, shouldn't it start to move at idle?
I'm breaking in both this engine and a rebuilt 12 bolt (pretty tight) so could that be why this is happening?
I thought fluid flow may be a problem so I put the car on jacks and ran through the gears with enough throttle input to get the wheels moving. I also stabbed the brake pedal and gave it 2000rpm of stall once or twice in both drive and reverse to give it some heat. It definitely has enough fluid
I just fixed a h*ll of a couple problems with my transmission yesterday so i just want to make sure i don't have to re-fix it. (Scarcely low fluid, boost valve/reverse pressure valves came out, snap ring not seated)
09-14-2018, 08:23 AM
#4
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I'm pretty sure I have the 60e version of that converter in my yukon XL. It's nice, not too aggressive converter. It drives a lot like stock, but still allows the rpms to rise under load to get you in the powerband better. I'd contact Circle D and give them your impressions and see what they think.
