My 4l60e build for my turbo car
#61
Ok well. I was riding around and something just broke. Not sure what. Stuck on side the road as I type this. The only thing I can tell is I was on it and it went “bam” and then it didn’t want to pull anymore. It like something in the trans locked up. I thought I blew the motor but I looked at my logs. After and timing were good and the engine was still running for a few seconds after. No rattles. I have it gas and it’s like it was in a bind and didn’t want to go. Then the engine dies and it won’t turn over. It will make about half a revolution almost like the battery is dead. My guess is something in the trans let go and welded it’s self. I’ll undo the flywheel bolts when I get home and see if the engine will crank. Keep you guys posted.
Last edited by Game ova; 02-24-2019 at 04:17 PM.
#62
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
I have to wonder the same thing, how much time and money will you waste on the 60e. I have a stock 4l80e with a couple valve body mods and it been holding quite a bit more power than your car. The 4l80 is just a better trans and the swap isn't hard. You don't need a pigtail adapter just re-pin 2 pins on the ecu side and get a trans mount.
#66
That's saying something, breaking an input shaft.......on the street.... no transbrake.... with a 600whp car. Good to see that you've seen the light now, and have decided to not put more good money after bad. I know it's cool to be different sometimes, by using something that isn't common (60e in this case) and being able to go fast with it. But more often than not, it creates frustration and cost time and money in the process, only to find out in the end that the more common, and tried and proven equipment is the way to go.
#67
i think I went to shift to third or was at the top of second. Maybe it let go and I hit the limiter because my log showed my highest mph was at 89mph then it hit the limiter and I started slowing down. So looks like it broke before I shifted to third. I was pushing around 10psi (170kpa)
#68
That's saying something, breaking an input shaft.......on the street.... no transbrake.... with a 600whp car. Good to see that you've seen the light now, and have decided to not put more good money after bad. I know it's cool to be different sometimes, by using something that isn't common (60e in this case) and being able to go fast with it. But more often than not, it creates frustration and cost time and money in the process, only to find out in the end that the more common, and tried and proven equipment is the way to go.
well I think it was because I cheated out on the shaft. If you want the truth. I always try to tell the truth and call a spade a spade. I bout a $70 hardened 4l65 input shaft from PATC and I was suspect before I bought it so I called and asked about it. My instinct told me that a hardened shaft of too much hardness with shatter or break before it’ll twist. So I inquired, the guy I talked to talk me it still will allow some twist.
To to be honest, the car was pulling harder than it ever has. My usual is 8psi in second gear because I’ve alwasys had a exhaust leak on my crossover pipe. I rebuilt it and fixed that so I had more boost, more consistently. So more power I feel. It would light my 275 nto5r tires up at 50mph, and it’s not cold here. It was about 80 degrees today.
#69
I have to wonder the same thing, how much time and money will you waste on the 60e. I have a stock 4l80e with a couple valve body mods and it been holding quite a bit more power than your car. The 4l80 is just a better trans and the swap isn't hard. You don't need a pigtail adapter just re-pin 2 pins on the ecu side and get a trans mount.
#70
TECH Junkie
Let us know what you find broken.
input shaft mid pull is weird. I could see it on a launch or if you pedal'd it.
P.S. if you're oging to ditch the 60e, I'm in for the partout of the guts
input shaft mid pull is weird. I could see it on a launch or if you pedal'd it.
P.S. if you're oging to ditch the 60e, I'm in for the partout of the guts
#71
yea I’m trying to decide. I’m not sure what to do yet. I just want the car where I can take it to Florida if I want and not have to worry about towing it back. I may put the 60 back in and put a good shaft in it. Mason said he’s gonna help me however he can. If I do decide to go 4l80 or 6l80 then I’m going to part out whatever is good as far as upgrades go and then rebuild it stockish and sell it or shelf it. So you have first dibs on whatever parts. I’ve got two units that came to me a few days ago I have to finish before I get to mine. I got one pretty much done last night and I hope to finish the other one by Thursday.
#72
Moderator
Sorry to hear of your problem.
Usually the output shaft breaks before the input shaft because the gears multiple the torque.
Another possibility is that the input shaft stripped out of the input drum, giving the same symptom.
At 600HP+ I would suggest a billet output and billet input shaft, just to be sure. And always installing the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring.
If the input shaft did break, it might be a clean break without metal shards, but if the input drum stripped it probably spread metal throughout the trans.
Usually the output shaft breaks before the input shaft because the gears multiple the torque.
Another possibility is that the input shaft stripped out of the input drum, giving the same symptom.
At 600HP+ I would suggest a billet output and billet input shaft, just to be sure. And always installing the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring.
If the input shaft did break, it might be a clean break without metal shards, but if the input drum stripped it probably spread metal throughout the trans.
#73
Sorry to hear of your problem.
Usually the output shaft breaks before the input shaft because the gears multiple the torque.
Another possibility is that the input shaft stripped out of the input drum, giving the same symptom.
At 600HP+ I would suggest a billet output and billet input shaft, just to be sure. And always installing the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring.
If the input shaft did break, it might be a clean break without metal shards, but if the input drum stripped it probably spread metal throughout the trans.
Usually the output shaft breaks before the input shaft because the gears multiple the torque.
Another possibility is that the input shaft stripped out of the input drum, giving the same symptom.
At 600HP+ I would suggest a billet output and billet input shaft, just to be sure. And always installing the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring.
If the input shaft did break, it might be a clean break without metal shards, but if the input drum stripped it probably spread metal throughout the trans.
#76
TECH Junkie
Would you run a junkyard 60e behind a stock camaro? Or would you say that's foolhardy and you should just rebuild it because chances are something internally isn't right.
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
#77
Would you run a junkyard 60e behind a stock camaro? Or would you say that's foolhardy and you should just rebuild it because chances are something internally isn't right.
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
#78
Would you run a junkyard 60e behind a stock camaro? Or would you say that's foolhardy and you should just rebuild it because chances are something internally isn't right.
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
That's the same with the 80e. I know facebook LOVES to make 80e vs 60e memes...and have you believe that a junkyard 80e with an HD2 shift kit is unbreakable, but that's not the case.
Sealing ring wear, BOOST VALVE WEAR (this is a huge problem with 80's), reverse band wear, broken direct drums (literally with the bottom blown out of them), shattered forward hubs, etc etc.
The 80e has it's own list of problems that need to be addressed if you want a reliable driver.
So, imo...if you don't mind taking a gamble on a junkyard 80e...then sure, spend the money to do the swap.
But if you wan't to do it once and do it right...that seems like the kind of guy you are...then rebuild the 80
#80
You know. i kinda feel like a failure, but i didnt machine this shaft. I almost have half a mind to forge ahead and put sonnax billet shafts in it (if i give up later then maroon monster will get a good deal on some 300m shafts lol) and let the bith eat. I dont see why it wouldnt hold my little power i'm making then. I'm a glutten for punishment i guess. I knew better than to put cheap **** in this thing. This is what i get.