4l60e 500whp?
 

Hey guys! Got an old truck with lm7 and 4l60e. Planning on turbo charging it and aiming for around 450-500whp My first thought was running a stock 4l80e but the conversion and buying the actual tranny ofc costs a bit. So how much would it cost to build the 4l60e for 500whp? This is a fun daily so it wont be a track car but will ofc try it a few times hehe.

Read Threads from the likes of KFXguy and 98cayenne
I've posted detailed build lists and plenty of not-well-known tips and tricks for building the trans
Yes a 60e can easily handle 500 horse

stock with a tune, good converter, and big trans cooler.

While ddnspider is correct that some guys get away with that...and he can tune them very well is is knowledgeable

but I've been inside my fair share of 300hp trans that were toasted in stock form with good tune.
These trans have inherent fluid leaks. They are mechanically limited pressure wise in stock form. They have limited clutch capacity. They have HUGE circuit leaks. etc

Yes...its possible...but no it's not the best idea imo

Ok thanks guys.. Maybe it actually would be better to just swap it for a 4l80e. Any ide on what they can handle stock?

That's a silly question
How bout...anywhere from 300hp to 1100 hp

I can find you examples of both of those power levels.

Every single junkyard trans I've ever pulled has had at least one, if not multiple issues.

I just have to come in here and poke every now and then :nod: For anyone planning on a drag car, maximum power to the ground during shifts, and long-term reliability..... go built trans.

Even the best 4l60e will eventually kill the 3-4 clutch pack if you drive your car hard. I just recently killed the 4l60e in my daily driver, stock ls1 tuned/exhaust/intake only. Got home in 2nd gear. Swapped it out with another good runner 4l60e I had. I'll put a new clutch pack in the other one when I have the time so it's ready for when this one dies.

In it's defense, i have abused the crap out of it.

If you don't mind swapping them out now and again, the 4l60e will hold for a while.

With the needed hydraulic improvements and the aftermarket drums from Sonnax and 4L79 that are available today...

There is really no reason the 3-4 clutch assembly should be burning/ wearing prematurely anymore.

Even before those two drums made it to market... hydraulic improvements (especially in the 3-4 signal, 3-4 clutch, and 3rd accumulator circuits, 3-2 control and 3-2 down-shift valves) the 4l65E apply plate, frictions, steels, and proper tight 3-4 clutch and 2-4 band clearance...
Would keep things drastically more alive!

Knight and day difference vs the very early designs of the stock THM700-R4 that has evolved into what we have today 37 years later. :-)

With everything we have today... I simply wish there were room for a larger 3-4 apply piston, as well as an extremely light but strong and rigid apply finger cage, and apply plate.

Thanks to help from guys here I have a few successful builds under my belt. I have taken and done advice and tips given and so far I have yet to burn up a clutch pack. I have only broke hard parts. I spin mine to 7100 rpms and inspecting during tare down the 3-4 clutch pack has been in very good shape each time. Reason for this post is I agree with the quoted message and it holds true.

After years of using as many plates as will fit (Borg Warner High Energy friction plates or more recently some-times Raybestos GPS friction plates) in an OEM drum with great success... I now have even better results (Of Course) with:

The use of the Sonnax drum with one or two additional frictions. Which has been amazing!

Lastly using the 4L79E drum with THM350 Raybestos Stage 1 friction plates has made me so happy to build the THM700-R4 and 4L60E/ 65E/ 70E/ 75E units again.

Years ago when the THM700-R4 units were more popular... I would steer people towards a THM200-4R unit instead.
I personally much prefer the THM200-4R with upgraded hard parts over the THM700-R4.
If the THM200-4R was not more expensive to produce than the THM700-R4, I believe we would have an electronic version today and not the 4L60E based units.

I mean look what went into the THM700-R4/ 4L60E and 4L80E units from the THM200-4R in terms of parts design!

That's AWESOME!

Great job on your build!

Thanks ALOT guys! Im all new to this so appriciate every help I can get! So anyone got a good build recipe that would fit my needs? Its fitted in a 69 F100. Wont track it much, fun daily that I wanna be able to abuse when I want lol. Both tranny and engine is a 2003 =) Since this isnt something ive done before I prob will let a shop do it

Or if there is like a complete kit I could buy that would be the easiest lol. Asked around on some swedish forums and got a recipe from 2008 that ppl keep talking about, long post sorry but what do you think? btw dunno why the text got so dark but if you mark it its easier to read lol

From Transmission Parts USA:
35764CK $21.79
13 Vane Pump Upgrade 2 heavy duty vane rings, 13 slot rotor guide, 13 slot rotor, 13 vanes


From Bulk Part
A74654A $16.43
Sprag low/reverse wide

A74658B $41.85
Sprag forward 29 element dual cage

74200 $12.61
Thrust Washer Kit

74201A $16.45
Bearing Kit

T74167 $25.38
TransGo Shift Kit Jr. (at least this, if not a full blown shift kit)

A74584C $67.50
5 Pinion Rear Planetary

D74582B $164.66
5 Pinion Front Planetary

A74905BAK $16.90
Servo Kit & Boost Sleeve Corvette servo, new 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator pistons, and new TV boost valve and sleeve

T54450A $9.30
Adjustable detent cable (TV cable) 700R4

A74536K $0.43
Pump Slide Spring Kit


Transmission Center
11CF $19.00
Alto Carbon Fiber 2-4 Band

14-2 $205.00
Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit gasket and seal kit, metal clad seals, ring kit, all Red Eagle Performance clutches, all high performance kolene steels, high performance 3-4 Red Eagle power pack.

45 $298.00
Extreme Duty Torque Drive Package hardened input shaft and new input drum, beast reaction shell, new low reverse sprag hardened input gear trimmed w/thrust bearing to replace thrust washer.

Thanks for the info. I will look more into this 4L79e drum as I want to stay with the 4l60e in my daily driver.

As stated by MaroonMonsterLS1 in post #2. Here is one of the threads he was talking about.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...e-rebuild.html
It goes over quite a bit. Clutches, clearances, tolerances, planetary gears, tips, tricks ect.

Thanks. But this is like greek for me lol. Thats why it would be awesome with like a "shopping list" so I can get all parts then just give them to a local tranny builder lol

Do not buy any of the following:

-A74584C $67.50
5 Pinion Rear Planetary

-D74582B $164.66
5 Pinion Front Planetary

Keep the 4 pinion planets that you have.

-T54450A $9.30
Adjustable detent cable (TV cable) 700R4

This is only for units from 1982 to 1992 that were not electronic, you have an electronic unit and can not use this.

-14-2 $205.00
Alto Red Eagle Master Rebuild Kit gasket and seal kit, metal clad seals, ring kit, all Red Eagle Performance clutches, all high performance kolene steels, high performance 3-4 Red Eagle power pack.

Alto clutch plates and Kolene steels are a waste of money; and in the 3-4 clutch assembly, they are inferior. Obtain an OEM clutch set using Borg Warner High Energy 3-4 clutch frictions.

-45 $298.00
Extreme Duty Torque Drive Package hardened input shaft and new input drum, beast reaction shell.

Do not buy any kit produced by PATC... Sorry they are idiots. Do not buy the input shafts that they heat/ cryo. The beast reaction shell is okay... purchasing a new GM heat treated shell would be better or one from Sonnax (however this is an unnecessary expense in your case).
You can purchase an improved input shaft from several places (or Sonnax). However in your case not necessary.

If your trans builder is competent, there should be no reason for YOU to do the parts shopping. If you and a buddy are going to give a whirl, then by all means, listen to the great advice you've gotten here and study up. There's a lot of little things that if done just slightly wrong will wreak havoc on your build.

if you want a complete shopping list...just talk to @PBA and order a rebuild kit for him. It will have a custom tailored parts list and good instructions for building.
Otherwise...learn to read greek and go through those threads and gather the info you need. Nobody else here should be expected to comb through those threads and spoon feed you a list because you're not willing to do the legwork.