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tuning for rebuilt w/shift kit &stall 4l65e

 
Old 05-30-2019, 06:58 PM
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Default tuning for rebuilt w/shift kit &stall 4l65e

Basically, I installed a newly rebuilt trans from Monster. I just ran my Hp tuner a few days ago. Today I plug it in and the first thing pops into my screen is trans diagnostics. p1870 I have what it says,( set temp265.6/ clear temp264.2)(set time 600s/ clear time5s)(enable temp68f/ disable temp302f)(TCCset max slip 3000 rpm/ min slip 1500 rpm) I think that one is the problem and maybe this one (TCC clear max slip 800 rpm/ clear min slip 130 rpm) I think this is a tuning question? I am by no means a tuning expert. I actually am trying to get it tuned for the new upper end. Before I installed the trans I cleared TAPS. I do think this has to do with the TCC, something simple even, but don't know? This electronic part of both the engine re-mods and the rebuilt trans with shift kit and 2000 stall are what is the unknown when messing with this stuff. 2004 5.3 liter silverado. Iyt has the Monster rebuilt ss 4l65e w/2000 stall.I have messed with nothing but Taps before install. Took a few days for it to feel like it is working better.
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Old 05-31-2019, 09:38 AM
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1st off...monster...hahahaha

its a code for excessive slip...which is what monster is notorious for...building garbage transmissions that either explode or slip.
It's likely a mechanical issue not allowing lockup.

Have fun with your warranty claim with monster...I can see this is your first post here which means you likely didn't do your research and find that everyone on this forum says not to spend your money there
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Old 06-02-2019, 02:22 PM
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Ya, the Monster thing. I've already learned about them, believe me. I do not know how a company like that stays in business? Haha, I guess with people like me? Nothing good to say about them, so I agree with everyone on this forum. If I didn't have high blood pressure before them, I did after waiting over 2 months for my crap trans. I have a long list of mistakes it seems, ever since I began to touch my truck. As of this moment, it has never run worse or looked worse, all because of me. It all began with a p0420.(another story) Yes, I know the codes, have too I live in communist California. That was a real treat when I went to smog it two years ago. Learning about fuel trims helped me tremendously. The biggest help was learning that if your showing neg. numbers your running rich and vice versa, all because the computer compensates. Once I learned I wasn't running rich but in fact lean, I finally accomplished something positive. Then 2 years later came the flashing mil and DTC p0300. wholly crap that was a hard one to fix. But I did. In fact, my truck had never run better, my fuel trims were perfect.(Another story) That's about the time (maybe Nov 2018) that I decided I wanted to finally get some more hp. "Where my mistakes began". I should have left it all alone. After the P0420 I replaced the cats only to end up replacing them again 2 years later when the p0300 struck. Why? Because when I first replaced them (so much more to the story) I did not know anything about fuel trims. I still had the same problem, but it was only masked for a while. I learned and that's how I got everything dialed in beautiful. Ran excellent. I kid you not, every day since approx. Nov of last year I have either been under or on or inside the truck working on it. I'm burnt out. Have the hp tuner and I am just burnt on learning more stuff. I need a break, yet need my truck. So I have been learning yet again. I installed A Brian Tooley stage 3 cam and yes, timing chain, oil pump, springs, rockers all of it. Replaced almost every sensor on the truck, injectors, coils, plugs, wires, gaskets, bolts, and on and on. Installed trans cooler, dropped the oil pan replaced that gasket and rear main seal. Didn't want any leaks and one had begun. Had pulled the transmission 3 times, (another story) and I installed a nitrous kit.(Never used and another story) My biggest mistake I think is that I did too much before checking each thing I did. It's like now where do I begin? Plus my documentation sucks. Now,going back to the DTC codes( more to this story). For years I noticed that my evap monitor had never set. I also wondered for years, that if because it didn't set, how would it know if something was wrong? I came to find out that I was exactly correct. Smog allows my year truck to have one monitor not to work, well the evap anyway( and yet another story). So I ignored it not knowing any better. When I began to work on my truck, I got it working and guess what, it had a history that showed large vacuum leak, and that is where it stayed, when in reality I had no vacuum leak. Fixing that finally got me to be able to fix my truck. So here I am now, messed it all up . i am trying to tune it for the 3rd stage cam, the stall converter and the trans shift kit/trans. What a nightmare .........And I am now illegal on California streets to top it all off because of the cam. Crap time to move ...........................................
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Old 06-05-2019, 01:36 PM
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wow that was hard to read

if you want to tune your trans...just read the sticky at the top of this forum.
if you're having slip codes...and it's monster...its cuz something is slipping. Have fun with the rebuild
/thread
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:02 PM
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Thank you. I'll check out the sticky. As far as the tranny, if its crap I won't even bother with monster. I would not have them do a damn thing to anything of mine ever again..I've been working with my Hp tuner and actually done only a few changes to idle and airflow, so the motor is getting better. Well, it seems anyway. So yesterday I took it out for a cruise and although I know something still isn't right, it was the first time that I felt after I drove it that I was on the right track. When I tune it, I reset LTFT so I expect my fuel trims to be a bit weird. I didn't want to get too excited about the fact that I didn't have to limp home. Good thing. Last night, I took it for its second run. No changes made. I usually have to drive city streets 35mph-45mph for about 2 miles then enter a highway/freeway and open it up some. That's a lie, I don't open it up some, I get on it to see what it can do. Last night I barely made it a mile when suddenly my truck acted like it was out of fuel, surged like the tank was going empty? Then I turned around immediately to head back home and I had no gears at all. I coasted almost the whole way home. Pulled over with fuqn flashers on shut off the truck for maybe 5 mins. so I could check the neutral safety switch connector and make sure it didn't pop off for some reason. It was on not the problem. Got back in and started it up no prob. Moved shifter to drive and nothing. Put down into 1st-2nd and with RPMs higher than needed I barely moved to make it home. By the time I was at my driveway, I had no gears again. Shut it off, waited a few minutes, started it and put it to low gear and barely made it up my driveway into my garage, in fact, I pushed it the rest of the way into my garage. I figure maybe went into limp mode. Same exact place I was at with the last transmission.......I am starting to think last time it wasn't a transmission problem either. Something to do with the converter. It now has only a 2000 stall speed, but still, it's different than stock. I have come to learn that no matter what is giving you a problem it may very well be linked or connected to some other problem. No matter transmission to engine or vice versa they both have to get along in these electronically fitted vehicles. Transmission and Fuel injection and emissions. I said I was burnt out, I am. But I can't give up. It's driving me crazy and has cost me so much money and time. Thanks for your reply, I'll check out that sticky now....
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:27 PM
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Does reverse work? If you unplug the round electrical plug on the right hand side of the trans you should 3rd gear. If you don't have reverse and 3rd gear with the electrical plug undone then you have a mechanical problem not an electrical/tune problem.
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Old 06-06-2019, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by bbond105 View Post
Does reverse work? If you unplug the round electrical plug on the right hand side of the trans you should 3rd gear. If you don't have reverse and 3rd gear with the electrical plug undone then you have a mechanical problem not an electrical/tune problem.
Thank you I will check that out then reply back
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:50 PM
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Came back on here just to mention a few more things in regards to this mess I have made of my ride. For whatever reason, the TPS is having problems. Well that and MAF. What a surprise I know. My codes have been a mix but the latest is p1514/p0068, p0121,p0101,p0106, and p2101. That's the engine. I've replaced wiring and both the MAF and the throttle position sensor Twice already. The IAT was having a problem as well but it was the connector going into the MAF. It works now. At first, the codes I had regarding TPS made me believe it was my throttle pedal. I pulled it out and tested, but didn't finish testing sensor two in the pedal. I reinstalled it anyway. Instead, I personally am thinking it is the actuator. On my year 2004, it has fuel injection so my TPS is on the outside of the throttle body. People confuse the TPS with the throttle actuator. Its the brain of all the other sensors basically. I just came to the conclusion that I'm getting all these odd codes for TPS in different parts of that system, that it must be the brain. It should be here shortly. Maybe someone might be thinking why the hec am I worried about the TPS? Don't I have a transmission problem? Haha, I could write a Novel. I am, I don't know maybe amazed or maybe in disbelief, of how each electronic component and what it is in charge of doing can and more than likely will be affected by some other electronic component. I have learned that hell yes, the TPS has everything to do with well everything! Maybe I now understand why it's better to purchase the engine and transmission, together in a package. My transmission code is as you know the p1870. In HP tuners on the screen that comes up showing the DTC, it also lists the trans temperature but no code. I don't know what to compare to for my transmission. What do I look up? Pice of crap thrown together by monster the liars in green? I'm not sure. Haha sorry, just getting rid of a little aggravation. I want so bad to have this running correctly and it just isn't happening. I'll keep at it and ill let you know if the actuator changes anything. I hear there is a TPS reset so ill be checking into that. Maybe key on wait kind of thing? Sorry about the long write-ups.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:06 PM
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Also, here is what my transmission supposedly is or has




The Monster 4L65E Transmission features:



the latest technology in our industry with only the best internal components for increased strength, dependable performance and monster torque capacity. All Monster transmissions are thoroughly inspected, blue printed and tested to ensure that your investment is completely flawless. For the system to operate properly, all throttle linkage, vacuum lines and kick-down components must be connected and adjusted properly.



Upgraded & Replaced Internal Components:






PRECISION MASTER OVERHAUL KIT






NEW ELECTRONICS






SUPERIOR HIGH PERFORMANCE SHIFT REPROGRAMMING KIT






SUPER PUMP






DIRECT/REVERSE INPUT DRUM






NEW BUSHING KIT






NEW BEARING KIT






TURBINE INPUT CLUTCH HOUSING






MODIFIED SUNSHELL DRIVE GEAR TO INCREASE REAR PLANETARY LUBRICATION






MODIFIED INPUT SUN GEAR TO INCREASE FORWARD PLANETARY LUBRICATION






UPDATED/MODIFIED ACCUMULATORS






RAYBESTOS PRO SERIES KEVLAR BAND *For SS and SSX Only






HEAVY DUTY KOLENE STEALS AND HEAVY DUTY RACE CLUTCHES *For SS and SSX Only






HEAVY DUTY SUNSHELL






RECALIBRATED VALVEBODY






RECALIBRATED VALVE PLATE FOR SHIFT FIRMNESS






NEW INTERNAL CORVETTE SERVO






NEW 4TH GEAR HIGH PERFORMANCE SERVO








NEW HIGH FLOW FILTER






NEW LOW/REVERSE HEAVY DUTY SPRAG






NEW 29 ELEMENT HEAVY DUTY FORWARD INPUT SPRAG






NEW 5-PINION FRONT AND REAR PLANETARIES *For SS and SSX Only



The chrome pan in the product photos is an upgraded item

Has a 3.06 ratio in first gear
replace the vss
possibly need to use old tail housing.
THIS IS MY TRANSMISSION CORRECT ? THE SS302-4L65E WHICH IS WHAT MY ORDER #MT-506085 INCLUDES.
WANTED CONFIRMATION THAT YES THIS IS CORRECT OR NO IT ISNT?

In case this helps me to fix whats wrong with my ride.

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Old 06-06-2019, 04:08 PM
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By the way. Do you want me to move my posts to a different location seeing as its a truck?
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:09 PM
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I posted here because from my experience over the years this site has the best info.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:11 PM
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So is this a 2004 silverado or a swap vehicle?

To me, it sounds like you're trying to tune out a problem. Probably the worst thing you can do. You need to put it back to the stock tune and fix the bad parts first.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:31 PM
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Yes, it's a Silverado and you are completely correct. I have put it back to stock to start over so to speak, more than once. The problem is, however as I mentioned in the first part of this "novel", that many things were done to it at the same time. The transmission was replaced while also a cam and springs and basically the whole upper end were either replaced or upgraded, including almost all of the main sensors like camshaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, map, and so on. I didn't do the knock sensors. So when I first got to turn the key, I have all these possibilities for these problems and stock don't work. With the stage 3 cam, it runs like crap with stock. Wouldnt even start. But since I have tuned it to run and now I am here. I'm reading codes, trying to fix not just replace! I've learned. It takes a long time to sift through all the garbage online to find some real information that actually helps. I don't think I have a huge problem even though at times it seems huge. Like last night. aargghh. I do believe it's just the tweaking of the correct areas in my transmission ( maybe because the stall converter)and engine to get them to know each other and how I want them to work. Maybe I am wrong? Right now I know I have to pinpoint the root cause of the problems and that's what I am trying to do. Then it can be fixed and not hidden! Thanks for replying
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:43 PM
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A higher stall converter thats loose will cause slip codes.
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kfxguy View Post
A higher stall converter thats loose will cause slip codes.
He only has a 2000 stall speed converter. It sounds like all of his sensor problems may have fried the trans. TPS and MAF are very important for the proper line pressure rise.
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:50 PM
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Hi, Seeing as you mention a higher stall. Originally, with my old transmission, the stock one that had 160,000 miles on it with a clogged filter,(yes, yes, I know), and fluid had a slight burnt odor to it. Ok Ok, I will stop right here. This is the beginning of all the crap story. This is when I dreamed of how fast my truck was going to be and hec, if I needed to put a new trans in then ok.?! O Man, what a mistake! When I got the stall matched to my truck, supposedly, a 3rd stage truck cam with stock trans guess what the experts set me up with on stall. Remember, they had all the info to make the best decision for my application. I'm kinda pissed off now because this is ridiculous, to say the least. I hid nothing told them everything and they recommend a 3200-3300 stall. Holy **** oops sorry. I got this itchin for better and more power and I have done nothing right. Do you know how long my truck would have lasted with that stall. I was almost scared to drive near the cop shop because I was revving so high, sounded like I was doing a hundred mph. My argument against the 3300 stall is the fact that my truck cruises at about 2000-2200 rpm. To me, that would have been a better match, but what do I know? It's not on the strip!. What a mess that began. This is when the cam was upgraded and the new transmission installed. Another mistake. I would tell anyone anymore to do 1 thing at a time and check it then move on to the next if it's possible to do the work in that fashion. Anyways that stall started to beat up the trans within the first week. Was only installed for maybe two weeks and I pulled it out and put the stock converter back in and that is when my trans took a crap. If in fact it really did, I think it was the 3/4 as everyone talks about. Could drive in 1st and 2nd only. Regardless I thought the trans was toast. Then like I said the truck was parked and the engine was upgraded then the newly rebuilt piece of @#$% installed . By the way, I have a TCI 3200-3300(stall more like 3500 in my application) bolt together converter used less than two weeks cost me $1000 .I don't want to break any rules so I won't say I'd sell it for cheaper much cheaper than I paid. For Ls1 applications, I have info if in case. Time to go check my 20 pin connector also known as the c175 and try to tune this trans if possible..
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:50 PM
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you might be correct ?!
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:57 PM
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I am first working on the TPS. Basically the codes. The Actuator did not show up today so hopefully tomorrow. I do believe it is the problem, why else would suddenly I have pedal codes and tips codes. My IAT also messed with me because the wire had a bad connection so replaced it and it works, so now i can see whats up with TPS One of the codes is a MAP code, haven't gotten that far yet. I'll keep you posted. I really am trying to keep my post short. Haha. A lot that has taken place so I don't know what I can leave out? Ill be back !
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:04 PM
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I have to clarify "actuator". The electronic brain of the TPS that is mounted to the firewall near the brake booster. It is the boss of the accelerator pedal position and the TPS on the throttle body position. Correlation? I have gotten codes for both so I figured its takin a dive. Cya
p.s. I do have pics. of that TCI converter if I can figure out the uploading. I'll look in faqs.
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:29 PM
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Haha, I wonder if anyone would realize that it would have been a smart idea for me to disconnect the connector on the trans. before I started up the truck and scanned it? Well, it was hot and I have branded proof of that. Actually, I wanted to start the truck connected first to see if anything at all had changed. I saw some interesting data, that although I cant intrepid just yet, doesn't look right to me at all. But first the transmission update. bbond105 suggested I pull the connector, the c-175 or twenty pin I guess its referred as? As I said I first started with it connected and nothing. No gears at all. I disconnected the connector and at first, for about 5 seconds I had reverse and drive and all my gears. I think all of them? Then the next thing I know, I have none. The truck wasn't moving at all, except the first approx. 5 seconds. just to think, I had it running beautifully before all of this. Tonight I noticed that my spark is all over the place. I had no DTCs but I figure that's because monitors have not yet run? The unplugged connector gave me codes and those were as follows, P0740, P0748, P0753, P0785, P2761. I don't know what's next. Also there is a vibration I have noticed now. I"ll check flywheel and such and report back . For now good friqn night !. Thanks to those who have replied I don't usually take the time to write my story, but this is just too much information to keep to myself.( That might explain the long posts? Haha.) I hope this helps someone, like me somehow? I think i will figure out how to send my current scan to hptuners and have them look at it, or parts of it. I know things are not right so maybe someone will help make it right? CyA
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