dixiebandit69

I've got a friend with a '94 full-size Blazer, 4X4.

He wants so swap in a 5.3 with a mild cam, but he wants to keep his original transmission/ transfer case.

To do this, I figured I would use the Fitzall TCC plug, a '99-'06 trans wiring harness, and a spacer on the crank hub.

While it's open, I'd also do all of the pan-drop upgrades.

Last of all, since he wants to cam it, I thought this would be a good time to upgrade to a higher stall converter. Since factory stall on that truck is something ridiculously low (1,300 rpm), I thought that converter from a 2000 S10 Blazer could work well (2000 rpm) at a low price.

Anything else you guys would recommend?

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

Personally I would recommend spending a little extra and going with a billet converter. You'll have a much more reliable converter with more stall options. If budget is a concern the converter you mentioned is likely your best option.

wlink14

Dont bother with that low of a stall. An engine with a cam really needs a stall converter. Youll be much happier with something like a 2800 or 3000 stall.
A friend of mine used a factory "high stall" converter with a 6.0 and bigger truck cam and it is an absolute turd at low rpm.
And the worst thing you can do is get a cheap stall converter, you really get what you pay for. I used a cheap one and it made a ton of heat and eventually killed my trans.

FranksCustomTrans

I think in the early 4l60e shaft style the highest stock stall was the vette converter at 2000 RPM But they are getting hard to come by.
I had someone argue with me about the 1200 to 1400 stall on FB saying it didn't exist was to low to work lol . Actually it is the most common of the converters from that era.

dixiebandit69

Thanks for the input, guys.

Torque converter aside, does the plan for the valve body sound like it will work?

FranksCustomTrans

Yes that plan will work just fine for the VB and keep pcm happy , Actually you do not even need the FITZALL as the converter regulator valve works very differently , Basically it just pressure regulation and is brought on by 2nd clutch oil if I remember correctly . So should work just fine without the fitzall. Just needs the PWM solenoid and right 3-2 to keep PCM happy .

Tranzman

5.7L V-8's usually came with 1200-1400 stall, 5.0L and some 5.7L came with 1650 stall. HP V-8's & Turbo Regal's came with 2025 stall. All S10/Blazer 4.3L had a factory 2025 high stall converter. They work very well with a mild cammed LS. Check your cam's recommended stall range, if they say stock will work go with the 2025 stall. If they say 2500 or better stall go with that.
Custom grind cams, 114 & lower lobe center, big duration, large overlap cams require more than 2500 stalls. That's when HP, torque, gear ratio & vehicle weight are required info for custom built converters.
400hp-500hp is the biggest range for most because all it takes is "bolt on's" to achieve that range of performance. A stock 325HP LS with a mild cam & well tuned with make 450HP and you can add another 100HP by bolting on NOS or a belt driven supercharger.

I uploaded a few pages from the Consolidated Vehicle Converter catalog on the converters in question.

dixiebandit69

Okay guys, here's an update:

1) I talked him into getting a converter. I don't know what he's going to pick yet.

2) I did a line-pressure check on the transmission, and the most it can make is about 170 in "OD/ D". This is with the main electrical connector unplugged.
Obviously, this is not ideal.

Do any of you think that a Sonnax .490 boost valve will fix it?

If not, and the pump is shot, has anyone ever SUCCESSFULLY replaced a pump on one of these transmissions in the vehicle?

I was thinking that I could put pressure on the 2/4 servo, tighten the band, and pull the pump out.

I want some of you smart guys to tell me if this is a stupid idea or not. I really don't want to take this transmission out, but if I have to, I will.

tayto

I would be careful about r&ring the pump with the transmission horizontal. maybe not as big of a deal on a 4L60E but years ago helped a buddy do a rear main on his squarebody. while the transmission was out we put a shift kit in and pulled the pump to do a new seal & bushing. i went to stand up the transmission vertically and my buddy was adamant that was not necessary so I bolted the pump in. Turned out a bunch of clutches fell out of place and the pump pinched them while getting installed. anyway, transmission had to come out and he took it to trans shop for a rebuild. it of course was my fault even though i had wanted to stand the transmission vertically as I had done on previous 700R4 rebuilds.

dixiebandit69

Here's an update for you guys: I took the valvebody off today, and the separator plate had no gaskets.

Anyone ever seen this before?




Aside from some light powder on the magnet and a little bit of black silt on the bottom of the pan, it doesn't look too bad. The plate itself doesn't look too beaten up, and I'm going to reuse it.

Let me know what you guys think; I'll be back with more details and vacuum numbers this weekend.

FranksCustomTrans

Actually yes a few times and even did it once years and years ago, Had a guy probably around 94 95 he really needed his truck for an event, I did not have gaskets as the kit had excluded them and back then it was not as simple as just ordering some overnight. I had seen it done on the 700r4 and the AOD and working , So i told him we could try it he agreed and so we did. It worked perfectly. He was supposed to bring it back to gee them installed but he never had time . But I knew him well and he drove that truck for 5 years like that no issues. The engine did blow up eventually, Bear in mind this was a work truck and he averaged 40k miles a year with it travelling all over the southeast .
I remember some of the old builder swore by it on the C4 and the AOD . In fact i was having a helluva time with an AOD starting in 2nd this was early days of the AOD 84 so in a lincoln , I went to the Ford dealer and talked to the builder they had and he said leave the gaskets off, I said seriously ? He said do it and you will be fixed. Bear in mind i was still pretty green OVERDRIVES were a pretty new thing . Most were scared to even work on them. But anyway I was desperate as the customer was frustrated . So I tried it and sure enough it worked perfectly . So I gave it to customer and as you know in the trans business , No news is good news. Never heard from the guy again. Did see him from time to time driving around town .
And No Before anyone says anything not promoting leaving gaskets off , Just saying it worked and as you see it seems worked for the unit you have as it look to have a few miles on it lol.

Tranzman

I worked for a shop that never used VB gaskets. the owner bitched at me when he saw me using them. That is where I learned that a Builders bench stone worked wonders for flattening cases, VB's & pump halves. I later started selling those stones to WIT, A&Reds, OTS, Trans-King & some others.
Sorry I don't have any left but I have seen them on eBay since I retired from all that.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/38442140317...Bk9SR_KSp97GZA

dixiebandit69

So do you still build your transmissions without gaskets?

dixiebandit69

Okay, gentlemen, I reassembled the valve body, and just so there are no misunderstandings, this is the part number.



I compared the 3-2 valve* with the newer style, and found it very different.


The difference results in a gap, which will no doubt cause problems:





That's just a heads-up to anyone who might be messing with an early '90s 4L60E, In case you were looking through your spare parts bin.

QUESTION: This transmission never had a TCC PWM solenoid, but the valve body has a provision for one.





I'm using a 2002 Silverado PCM/ wiring harness.
If I install an old PWM solenoid into this valve body and plug it in, will there be any negative effects? I need the solenoid to be plugged in to keep the PCM from giving a code,

*I will be blocking the 3-2 valves.

tayto

I believe the early 3-2 valve was PWM and then went to an on/off arrangement in 96, so probably explains the difference in the valves. I believe the newer 3-2 solenoid will fit in place of the old one, so I would do that to keep the CEL off.

I don't see any issue installing the TCC solenoid to keep the CEL off

Tranzman

NO I don't unless the OE never did. If you think about it there are quite a few transmissions that never used VB gaskets from the factory, mostly Mopar's. That's where the idea's to not use them came from.

dixiebandit69

MOPAR is pure dog-****, in my opinion. This is based off of what I have observed over the last thirty years.
I don't give a **** if it's got a HEMI, it's still a piece of **** with a bad oiling system. The only reason to ever buy a MOPAR is if you want a Cummins diesel.

Anyway, I decided to remove the transmission from the truck (It's only four bolts), since the idea of taking the pump out inside the truck seemed like a fool's errand.

I was right. The case is damaged; I can't believe I didn't see this sooner; I just thought that the last person forgot a bolt.







The torque converter clutch O-Ring was completely fucked.



I've got another early 4L0E to scavenge parts from, so I will give updates tomorrow, or whenever I remember.