What's an aftermarket stall like?
 

I've never ridden in a vehicle with an aftermarket stall and I all I know is they produce results and I'm getting one. After I put my cam in (soon I hope), I'm calling the engine quits and doing the tranny.

If the stall speed is say 2500 rpm, does that mean every time you blip the throttle its going to rush the engine to that rpm? Or that everytime yoy floor it, it automatically shoots up to that rpm?

What is the drivability like?
Whats the performance like?

Ummmmm I think this might have been asked before :rolleyes: Its like a big fat nuetral drop at said stall rating. No seriously you can use a thousand words to try to describe it but how about these two GET ONE you wont regret it!! But if you must read descriptions use the search your likely to find a few.

If you launch on ET Streets it is like a "big fat nuetral drop at said stall rating", otherwise on the street you won't get near the rated stall speed. I used to have a Vig3200, now I have a TCI4400. My Vig used to go up to 2000 rpms on moderate acceleration, my TCI goes up to 2500 rpms. On aggressive accelerations the vig would go up to 2500, my TCI goes up to 3000 rpms. On light accelerations the vig would go to about 1500-1700 and my TCI goes to ~2000 rpms. If you have ever driven a manual, it is like you are driving while slipping the clutch at about half the rated stall speed (depends on the STR and rear gear ratio too).

12secSS...

how was that vig3200 over stock?

How much was it?

Torque converters are fluid couplings that get tighter as centrifugal force increases from RPM.

The fluid inside reciculates in a spiral motion betwen the pump and turbine with the stator in between. Because the fluid is recirculated, energy from the pump is multiplied and imparted to the turbine by a factor that increases with the RPM difference between the pump (engine) and turbine (input shaft.) The maximum amount of torque multiplication a torque converter is cable of is its STR ratio. Higher efficiency converters will have a higher STR ratio meaning they will convert more RPM into torque and less into heat.

Based on that explanation, a higher-stall converter takes more RPM to get tighter than a stock converter does, but this also increases the potential for torque multiplication as power increases. Since a torque converter really does CONVERT the RPM differnce into torque, it can feel like you installed lower gear ratios into the transmission, but variable ratio as RPM increases.

The inital feeling is that the trans is slipping, but that's only at low throttle. Give it more gas and enjoy the rubber smoke. You'll get used to it quickly.

WOW, Excellent explanation of a torque converter James :thumb: maybe that should be stickied to the top!! One thing you might want to keep in mind Derek is that just as your rear gear will effect how a converter drives so will the weight of the vehicle. I see in your sig that you have a truck correct? I dont know what most the truck guys run but you may want to go with a bit lower stall than most the car guys. I would guess either a tci3000 or a vig2800 might be good choices. The weight of your truck will cause the converter to "stall" a bit higher (feel "looser").

all u need to know is.

1)get one
2)get a cooler
3)gas is on the right

:burn:

It was night and day difference based on the performance alone, my ETs dropped .88 (and ET Streets) with it. It was a tad looser than I originally had hoped for, but after 3 days of driving it I got very used to it. So much that stock convertered cars didn't do it for me anymore. The first time I went WOT with it, my buddy encouraged me, I was like :eek: Damn did that thing pull so hard at anything past half throttle. Unlike the stock converter, plus it got rid of all the dead spots in the rpm range. The cost ... I bought it used from the classifieds here for $450 shipped, new they are like $750.

to get the car moving, youre gonna have to hit the gas pedal more than you would with a stock t/c.
also the vig3200 stalls more so around 3800 rpm.

As everyone else will say...GET ONE!! It's incredible in the difference it makes if you have no idea on what to expect. With my MW 3400 on normal acceleration the RPMS hover right around 2000RPMs till the converter locks up. When I go WOT mine will shoot up to 3500-4000RPM and the car will haul some ass!!

Whats it like you ask :d

A Wet Dream ;)

Will it make the car quicker from a street start to say 60mph ?

That is where the biggest gains will be, as long as you can make traction. It will definately be quicker.

:werd:

JUST GET ONE!

Look at it this way. Have you seen the new Oct. GMHTP where they tested a bone stock '04 Z06 to 11.97 in the 1/4 mile with an awsome driver? It pulled a 1.90 60' and 7.90@94 in the 1/8. My 320 rwhp/337 rwtq HEAVIER Camaro could beat it 0-60 (given track levels of traction) I would be willing to bet. Why? CONVERTER! I pulled 1.72-1.75 60's and 8.0@86 in the 1/8. The Z06 wouldn't catch me until almost the 1/8 mile mark! Of course, it would then blow by me, but it does have 360+ rwhp :D

If you want to accelerate from a dead stop an automatic with a higher stall converter is the way to go!!!!

If you want to accelerate from a dead stop an automatic with a higher stall converter is the way to go!!!![/QUOTE]


Providing you can get traction, of course ... incinerating the tires produces no forward movement!

Forward movement from a dead stop, at a higher level than stock, will require stickier tires no matter which way you choose to go. If you insist I'll put it htis way:

If you want improved acceleration from a dead stop an auto with a converter and stickier tires is the way to go.

pretty good idea to be rocking out on nitto dr's if you gonna get the 'verter and such too. I can't imagine how hairy normal tires would be. I run about 25psi hot always on the rear

I roll on street tires with my PT4000 everyday. Not that bad. I can light them up if I wanted to but I can take off like a MoFo as well. All in the foot. Granted it'd be better to have at least Nittos. I recommend E/T Streets for real traction. But you can drive daily without non-rain friendly tires.

How do you decide how high of a converter to use and how do you match a stall to a cam