BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Yes, it will take more RPMs to move the car, since the converter is doing less work (torque multiplication).

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

mine does not feel that loose at all, normal cruising rpm till lock up is like 2200rpm, good luck on the verter and fuddle is not the same as yank, they have very different parts, fuddle uses old stock converter cores, yank makes new billet ones, just one example and i dont see anyone on top of the SI list with a fuddle they just aren't as efficient, but if you are not looking for every little hp and tweek out of the car fuddle is more than enough, great customer service from what i read also...

HPT BANDIT

iTrader: (2)

Do you have any proof on the fuddle converter being less effecient? I've been doing some searching but I haven't found anything.

Dom

iTrader: (2)

There is more to a car then just a converter. It is pretty ignorant to assume otherwise. Those guys at the top of the list have cars that weigh 2600lbs and have hard core mods. You want to compare that to someone who is at stock weight with mild mods?

I got a friend with a Vig3200 that 60s better then you, MPH is higher, ET is about the same. So I guess your Yank sucks. 400 more stall and still slower. Talk about inefficient. He is stock internals BTW.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

what is hard core mods and what is mild mods, please explain, i am on that list with stock manifolds and a weight of 3365, i will put my converter with same size str and stall against a fuddle any day

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

i was going to buy a fuddle but this became obvious to me when i look and most peoples time before the converter and after there mph always seemed to drop, which is efficiency, i did not saw fuddle is a bad converter just not efficient as a yank, and obviously you are going to pay for that...i also said that fuddle has great customer service, you need to settle down...bottom line they are a great converter for the money but not the best...get it now

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

The get hard evidence you will have to find some one with similar mods and aftermarket converter and see how you like the performance/character of that car. Whats loose for some guys might be tight for you. If you do not do that you are just guessing or taking other peoples word.



I got in a car that had a 3500 converter and that car pulled super hard. That was all it took for me to upgrade from the 3200 to the 3600.

Dom

iTrader: (2)

What range of STRs is possible with SS converters?

From Yank's website it looks like the SS3600 comes with a 2.5 STR. Is that what most people are getting?

HPT BANDIT

iTrader: (2)

MPH can go down just because of traction.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

A Vig 3200 doesn't stall at 3200...that's why...try more like 3600-3800 from what i've heard...

BURN'EM

iTrader: (11)

3200 would be fine for what your wanting. 3400 and higher require a tune b/c the trans thinks its slipping and that effect torque management. I have had a yank 3200, Vig 3600 and currently a Yank 4000 The vig 3400 sucked compared to a 3200, but they were different STR's and makers.
The 3200 was good with the stock trans at the time. Shifted strong didn't have asmuch lag as factory on down shifts.Did decent at the strip 1.6xx on DR's.
The vig 3400 really was a dog. reved up to much, wouldn't hold lock up? computer said to lock it wouldn't hold. that's when I bough the Yankss3200.
Now I have a SS4000 in a Th400 streetabilty is out the window with this setup. More of the gearing and transmission than the converter.

Really none of us can tell you which one you will like we can just give you our experiences. My impression of the SS3200 was good. At the time mods were....Lid, filter, Borla, and a tune/ stock 3.23's

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

Who is your friend and i was comparing fuddle to yank, vig is also a good converter but if the 60 is the same or a hair better with the same stall and str why is the et not better if the mph is better

better 60, better mph same size stall, but the et is about the same...something isn't right, he is losing some performance somewhere, should be better times, also what is this persons gears...

Also is there anyone else on the SI list that still has Stock manifolds, not sure just asking

MNR-0

Some people have misguided concepts about MPH being directly linked to converter efficiency - its way more than that.

What if I were to say I could run 114MPH then bolt-on a higher diff-ratio, smaller tyre and run 119MPH with the same converter? Clearly its not the converter thats resulted in the MPH, rather the gearing and EFFICIENCY FOR THE COMBO AT HAND.

You cannot reliably compare 2 converters without knowing the full truth about each car incl. race weight, tyre size, gearing, the power curve, shift points etc. Get my point?

Furthermore, thre is only so far you can go with a 9.5" converter. If you want more efficiency than a 9.5" can offer, you need to go to a smaller size hub - something like a MightyBoy 7" unit that will stall to 5000RPM and yield full lockup at 99% efficiency at 7000RPM.

The best compromise IMO for streetability, performance and efficiency in a daily driver is a 3200 with a mild or stock cam. A 3600 is best suited to a larger cam, something like 224+. Remember I said compromise, not all out streetability or all out track performance. Sway from that and you give up one end to add more to the other.

2.5STR is really for the lower geared cars to add more oomph off the line. You do not need 2.5STR for a great 60' - again, its all in the combo.

Thre higher the gearing you have (as in 3.46==>3.73==>3.91==>4.11) the less STR you need. I have a 3600/2.2STR Fuddle which I am trialling and it is too big for my small 212-220 cam so im going a 228-232 to MATCH THE COMBO. Im even considering going a lower STR like 1.8 as once you are of the line, its all above 4800RPM.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

How does a higher diff ratio and smaller tire, make you gain 5mph in theory, why are people not doing this then, most people put only a converter in when they do it and then run it at the track, so you can compare mph, to before and after, just confused by your statement please explain, if the only thing on a car that is changed is a converter and the mph drops, not the same amount of power is being put to the ground, hp is being lost

I do like what you said about str and gearing, you really want a 1.8str are you running drag radials and dont want the hard hit, is it a steet only car?

thanks

PrototypE

So guys, does Str affect how hard it launches off the line, i.e, the lower the Str, the softer the launch, and the higher the Str is, the harder it launches?

What if for example, on a street car with stock 3.23 gearing, running street tires, would I want, higher or lower Str?

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Depends what you want, the higher STR will make it harder to launch but it will make it more streetable.

The opposite is true for a lower STR.

chrs1313

iTrader: (24)

when he says streetable he means how loose it will feel, but he is totally correct, i say just get a 2.0 or higher str because if you are looking to hook on the street with street tires it is not going to happen no matter what str you have

PrototypE

So on street tires only, and stock rear suspension, a 3200 stall converter with 2.5 str would be slightly less likely to vaporize the tires off the line, AND from a roll, than say, a 3600 w/ a 2.1 str? assuming a no slicks, no drag radials, ls1 daily driver, the slightly lower stall/higher str converter would be more appropriate? Thx for your patience, I'm still learning about converter specifics.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

From a stop I don't know, both would light up the tires a lot. From a roll though when your STR is no longer in action, the 3600 is going to be much preferred over the 3200, acceleration wise.
That would be correct, though I drive a 3600 2.5 and I like it. Sure it feels loose sometimes but you have to make these kinds of compromises. The STR though can help make a higher stall converter more driveable, due to lower revs.

natronathon

not to hijack the thread, but what is an STR and what does it have to do with the Converter lockup speeds and launching? also what is the shift extension i heard mentioned...

Kinda newbish when it comes to transmissions...