How hard is it to replace the universal joint? (rear)
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How hard is it to replace the universal joint? (rear)
Mine is starting to clink real bad everytime I put it into gear and very consistently when the car shifts so I think I have waited long enough. Dealer quoted me at $100 for the part and $175 to install. I would rather do it myself if I can. I do not have the extreme amount of tools since I moved but the necessities. He said I would have to drop the exhaust also. Thoughts? If anything, is it easy enough I could take it to a Goodyear or somewhere for cheaper?
Also, found a Lakewood U-joint at Autozone for $44 versus their $100. Opinions?
Also, found a Lakewood U-joint at Autozone for $44 versus their $100. Opinions?
Last edited by Sick99WS6; 04-21-2006 at 01:20 PM.
#2
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Sounds awfully high to me. I'd remove the driveshaft myself (just 4 bolts and you don't have to remove the exhaust) buy the U-joint and bring it somewhere else to get it replaced. Sure it's the U-joint and not a bad tranny mount?
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It's not too bad really, just need I think a 7 or 8mm wrench, I use a ratcheting wrench, I don't know about having to drop exhaust, I have TD's, but I don't think you will, unbolt the straps holding the U joint to the yoke of the rear, slide the ds out of the tranny, some fluid will come out so have a rag handy. The factory u joint has plastic holding the u joint into the ds, use a small torch to heat it up enough to melt the plastic and I use a socket the same size as the u joint bearing cap to hammer the u joint out. put new u joing in in reverse of removal, some times they are a pain to put back into the ds, but if you have a vice or even a smal hammer a little force is all it takes. Spend the time and not the money and you will be proud you learned more about your car. I would reccomend a precision from napa, I have installed a few of that brand and never had any trouble with them, I have one on my car right now and had zero probs with it. Good luck!
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I will replace the tranny mount anyway b/c I liked my old poly one in the Z but pretty sure it is the U-joint. I don't think the mount would make a metal on metal clink noise. Thanks for the help. Think this will be something done in the driveway. I took apart my LT1 and installed a cam. How hard could this be?
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275$ for a u-joint replacement good price
The best way i have ever found to diagnose a bad u-joint was to visualy inspect it. there is a rubber seal in the end of the cap. if its distorted in any way the u-joint is bad. An old man once told me this trick and it worked every time. (i guess im the old man telling the trick now )
The best way i have ever found to diagnose a bad u-joint was to visualy inspect it. there is a rubber seal in the end of the cap. if its distorted in any way the u-joint is bad. An old man once told me this trick and it worked every time. (i guess im the old man telling the trick now )