Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Everyone tells me torque converters are such a great mod and it should be one of the very next things I do, but I have a question. How can it even help me? With the mods I have now I have to feather the throttle and keep it on the edge of breaking loose all the way to the top of 1st gear. When I'm stopped I can't even put my foot down a little bit at the same time as the brake and expect to get any traction off the line. I'm using the stock Eagle F1's that came on the car. Right now the only place I can see that it would help at all is when I punch it at about 35. It's fast enough to only go to second, but doesn't have much power right there, it should really still be shifting to 1st at that point IMO. So I can see how right there the TC might give it some extra go, but then it locks up at somewhere around 45 right? So as far as I know it wouldn't really do anything above that. So really it looks like to me it would only help when starting from a roll at about 35-40, but thats it, and it would take some very sticky tires like drag radials or something to have it help me out. I'm probably completely wrong here, and be sure to let me know if I am and how it really is . I just don't see how something that is supposed to get you off the line faster can get you off the line faster by giving you more power, if the power you already have is far more than enough to break the tires loose. Thanks

AK's WS6

Well, with that logic you shouldn't mod the car anymore 1st off F1's suck for traction and yes the converter will lock around 40ish but that doesn't mean the performance stops there, you'll benefit from the shift extension and the ability to jump the RPM's up into your powerband. Get some better tires and buy a 3500+ stall and you won't be dissapointed

Luna

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like me you need to address your traction issues before you even THINK about a torque converter. Look at some bigger tires 315s maybe a nitto or something similar depending on how you use the car.

Once you have traction figured out THEN stall it. The idea of a higher stall TC is to lock the converter up at a higher RPM in a better powerband. Without tires to hold it you are really just going to be going nowhere fast.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I'm confused. I haven't really learned much about this part of the car yet, sorry . If the converter locks up, doesn't that mean it's basically directly connected to the engine through the transmission? If that is true then wouldn't the stock converter be exactly the same as any other converter locked up, forming basically a solid shaft from the transmission to the wheels? I guess I just don't understand how it would be able to make it better after it's locked up. Before that I understand it just fine, but after it locks up I don't know.

Thanks for helping me understand this stuff

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

Yes...when it locks up it will act the same as the stock converter. UNTIL....you hit the gas.....then the converter unlocks, flashes to much higher RPM, and really pisses off the tires. I've been daily driving a 4200 stall for over 3 years now. I love it.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Oooh, ok, so it unlocks even above that 40 or whenever it locks up when you hit the gas? That makes more sense for when people with stock tires still like them. I thought the only reason the rpms jumped up was because it was downshifting, I didn't realize that it unlocked again. So do you think its worth getting a converter before I get tires or do you think I should just wait? I'm planning on getting an LS6 intake and a ported throttle body. Then later a cam and pulley, but that was going to be after the converter.

Joel_SS

iTrader: (8)

That is not exactly right. One thing to keep in mind is the converter itself does not dictate when to lock/unlock. That is all in the tune..

As far as shifting and RPM the aftermarket converter is going to keep the motor in the power band, when the tranny shifts you will see very little drop in RPM. It has been awhile since I have driven around on a stock converter but if IIRC the stock verter will drop the RPM down 2500 or more RPM from the WOT shitft point which is out of the motors powerband.. As opposed to 400-500 RPM with a aftermarket verter. Just get a converter it is the best mod for an A4 and you will not convince anyone here otherwise.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

Converter should be the first mod and after you do it you'll understand why.
Get those tires off the car and put on some nice DR's,then you'll think the car is slow again with the stock converter

jpat1023

Dude, I don't know what you want to hear. A converter is the single best mod you can do for an A4. It launches you off the line, it gets rid of dead spots, you get the benefit of shift extentions, etc etc...Get some better tires and a 3000-3500rpm stall, trust me and everyone else here, you will not regret it.

My mods are in my sig and my roomate has a bolt-on Z28 with a 232/236 cam, and from a stop or any roll below about 70 I take him all the way to 95-100 before he goes by me, and the only reason this happens is b/c I have a huge advantage with the stall.

The stall keeps you in the powerband at pretty much all times.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Ya i have heard nothing but good about a TC, im looking to get a 3500 myself or a 4000 not for sure yet ive gotta search about STR so i know what i should get mine at. But i have never heard a bad thing bout a stall. im running the stock stall right now and i hate how it bogs off the line and then it will finally get into the powerband.

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

I guess it must be all of your tires cause mine never bogs off the line. From what everyone is saying it must be the tires.

What order do you think I should do all of the things in? I'm planning on doing a ported TB, LS6 intake, torque converter, tires, and a pulley and cam.

Joel_SS

iTrader: (8)

Do the torque converter first. It will be the foundation to fully support and make use of all your other mods.

97blkz

iTrader: (1)

Agreed do a stall first, best mod besides spray on my car. Think about this way, if you had a 6 spd would shift at 2200 rpms or closer 3200-4400 when you ar racing? Get the point it allows your car to remain in it's power band. I've seen mostly stock cars drop 5/6 10ths from a good stall.

SOMe WS6

iTrader: (1)

def. go with the stall converter first. i was running 12.4's with my vig3200 and boltons.

IllusionalTA

iTrader: (9)

yank SS are great street verter's.. Easy 11's w/ supported bolt on's

cws T/A

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE]I have to feather the throttle and keep it on the edge of breaking loose all the way to the top of 1st gear.

Get some MT dragradials 4000+ stall , trex and check back with us

BlackTA98 LS1

iTrader: (4)

[QUOTE=Luna]Sounds like me you need to address your traction issues before you even THINK about a torque converter. Look at some bigger tires 315s maybe a nitto or something similar depending on how you use the car.[/QUOTE=Luna]

Theres no need to get a 315 tire , it makes no difference in performance. Just get a nice sticky tire in whatever size wheel you have.

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

Get Sticky Tires What Gear Do You Have ? Tires Will Make A Huge Difference
Most Converters Are Also Smaller In Diameter I Think Rule Of Thumb Here Is For Every Inch You Lose Youll Gain 3t04 Tenths In1/4 Mile Most Are Alot Liter Than Stock Converters Ive Not Done It On Mine Yet Still Lookin Into It But Have Done It On Several Prior Owned Cars Listen To These Guys They Know There ****

Speedmonster185

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so SOMe WS6, what kind of tires were you running? Someting sticky I'll bet.

IllusionalTA, I would love to be able to get into the 11's without a cam. When you say 'supported bolt ons', what do you mean? What else would I need to do to mine to have all the things you are thinking of.

For tires, should I just get some tires that I can use on the street/strip, or should I go with street tires and then buy two slick or DRs for the back at the track? I was thinking about just getting street tires that will last me a while and then getting two other slick or DRs to put on when I'm at the track.

Oh, and by the way, I went to the track for the first time EVER today(finally....) and rana 13.17@106 with a 2.02 60ft (on those Eagle F1s).

johnjzjz

The first thing you want to do is to call a real convertor builder like ATI or TCI or Dynamic do not trust the comic books like jegs or summit to tell you what will work the guy on the phone last week was selling shirts -- if you call them make sure you have all the correct info about your car not what some dope at mc donalds told you and they will get the right convertor for you the first time because they will build it to your specs -- jz