This IS whats Needed for 4L60E to TH350 swap INFO!!
05-01-2007, 10:01 AM
#1
This IS whats Needed for 4L60E to TH350 swap INFO!! I figured i would just post up all the parts that i used in my swap to the TH350. I will add part numbers also because i have been seeing alot of post about TH350's. Maybe if people use the search function this will stop all the post about the TH350s if we compose alot of info in here.
First off you need to either buy a TH350 that is already built, or buy a rebuildable core from a junkyard or where ever you prefer. I personally bought mine off ebay with all the Heavy duty parts inside and with a trans brake and all the goodies. If you order a TH350 with a Full manual valve body this will mean that in order for the transmission to shift you will have to do it!!!
http://www.performabuilt.com/ Link to TH350 transmissions
A forward manual valve body will go like this: P R N 3 2 1
A reverse manual valve body will go like this: P R N 1 2 3
Any TH350 can be made with either a forward or reverse manual valve body, all you have to do is make sure that you get a shifter that will comply with which ever you get..
When you go to buy your Transmission, you want to make sure and positive that you get the long tail shaft (9") so you can still use your stock driveshaft. If you go with a short tailshaft then you will have to have a new driveshaft cut. So make sure and specify whichever you want at the time of purchase.
Parts Needed.
With the TH350 the stock VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) from the 4L60E will not work and a new conversion piece will be needed. Alot of people go with Rossler to get this part but since they are a non sponsor i will not post a link to their site. Just make sure you are ready to shell out around $250 for the whole setup
.
OR
You can follow SUX2BU's write up on the free way to make the speedo work with the TH350. Here is the link to his thread just in case you are wondering what im talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/479729-free-way-get-speedo-work-th350-th400.html
You will also need a new crossmember preferably with the torque arm relocation on it. I went with BMR and everything went pretty well with it, i highly recommend this product. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
On the BMR link, the crossmember you need will be at the very bottom of the page, look for 98-02 F-Body with TH350.
Im not for sure if UMI or Spohn carries the crossmembers i've just always heard of BMR.
Also a new transmission Dipstick will be needed, as for me i went with the MadMan dipstick from thunder racing.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&sid=743#P5262
As for the install of that dipstick, it only took me maybe 5min at the most, start to finish. Some people use the flexible Lokar and i believe if you go this route the dipstick needs to be 36" i believe but dont hold me to that. I personally would not go the Lokar route just bc of the bad reviews i've heard about how long it takes to put fluid in. Just search around a bit and look at the different thoughts other people have had with the 2.
As for the o2 sensors i have heard that they wouldn't work with the TH350. I'm not for sure why they said this but maybe if your running just that certain type of headers then maybe then it wont clear. As for me i am running SLP long tubes and my O2's clear with room to spare so this is just my experience and as i said maybe with a different set of headers the o2 sensor may need to be relocated.
Now on to the Torque Converter. Either you will have to buy a new TCI flexplate that will work with the TH350 converter, or you can have a Torque converter company such as Yank, Vigilante, or TCI or whoever you prefer to make you a custom converter that will work with the stock LS1 flexplate and also with the TH350.
If you have a 98 model F-Body then your stock flexplate will have 2 sets of holes in it. One of those sets will work with the TH350 converter. I believe you will just need tell the Converter company that you are putting this in an LS1 so that way they will know to extend the output shaft on the converter so it will reach the crank.
New coolant lines for the tranny will need to be ran, as for the stock lines are about 4 inches to long.
To add to this part i would like to suggest that if you are running a pretty large stall 3500+ the i would get a nice trans cooler but even if you have a 3000 stall i would still suggest getting one because they are just cheap insurance.
I suggest the B&M 24000GVM Here is a LINK
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...y=Transmission
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
You will need to get a new Transmission mount as the old one will not work with the new crossmember or transmission. I just went to my local Advance auto parts and asked for a transmission mount for a 1977 camaro and it worked perfectly.
You will need to get your tuner to turn everything off that has to do with the transmission bc now the transmission is controlled by YOU and not a computer
.
Also some of the bellhousing bolts will not be used, as for the 4L60E had like 8 bolts holding it on to the block the TH350 only uses i think 5 or 6 can't really remember off the top of my head. Just dont be worried when you have extra hardware
I think that about sums it up, but if i have forgot something then let me know and ill add it..
Your welcome guys
Thanks
B.J.
First off you need to either buy a TH350 that is already built, or buy a rebuildable core from a junkyard or where ever you prefer. I personally bought mine off ebay with all the Heavy duty parts inside and with a trans brake and all the goodies. If you order a TH350 with a Full manual valve body this will mean that in order for the transmission to shift you will have to do it!!!
http://www.performabuilt.com/ Link to TH350 transmissions
A forward manual valve body will go like this: P R N 3 2 1
A reverse manual valve body will go like this: P R N 1 2 3
Any TH350 can be made with either a forward or reverse manual valve body, all you have to do is make sure that you get a shifter that will comply with which ever you get..
When you go to buy your Transmission, you want to make sure and positive that you get the long tail shaft (9") so you can still use your stock driveshaft. If you go with a short tailshaft then you will have to have a new driveshaft cut. So make sure and specify whichever you want at the time of purchase.
Parts Needed.
With the TH350 the stock VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) from the 4L60E will not work and a new conversion piece will be needed. Alot of people go with Rossler to get this part but since they are a non sponsor i will not post a link to their site. Just make sure you are ready to shell out around $250 for the whole setup
.OR
You can follow SUX2BU's write up on the free way to make the speedo work with the TH350. Here is the link to his thread just in case you are wondering what im talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/479729-free-way-get-speedo-work-th350-th400.html
You will also need a new crossmember preferably with the torque arm relocation on it. I went with BMR and everything went pretty well with it, i highly recommend this product. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
On the BMR link, the crossmember you need will be at the very bottom of the page, look for 98-02 F-Body with TH350.
Im not for sure if UMI or Spohn carries the crossmembers i've just always heard of BMR.
Also a new transmission Dipstick will be needed, as for me i went with the MadMan dipstick from thunder racing.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&sid=743#P5262
As for the install of that dipstick, it only took me maybe 5min at the most, start to finish. Some people use the flexible Lokar and i believe if you go this route the dipstick needs to be 36" i believe but dont hold me to that. I personally would not go the Lokar route just bc of the bad reviews i've heard about how long it takes to put fluid in. Just search around a bit and look at the different thoughts other people have had with the 2.
As for the o2 sensors i have heard that they wouldn't work with the TH350. I'm not for sure why they said this but maybe if your running just that certain type of headers then maybe then it wont clear. As for me i am running SLP long tubes and my O2's clear with room to spare so this is just my experience and as i said maybe with a different set of headers the o2 sensor may need to be relocated.
Now on to the Torque Converter. Either you will have to buy a new TCI flexplate that will work with the TH350 converter, or you can have a Torque converter company such as Yank, Vigilante, or TCI or whoever you prefer to make you a custom converter that will work with the stock LS1 flexplate and also with the TH350.
If you have a 98 model F-Body then your stock flexplate will have 2 sets of holes in it. One of those sets will work with the TH350 converter. I believe you will just need tell the Converter company that you are putting this in an LS1 so that way they will know to extend the output shaft on the converter so it will reach the crank.
New coolant lines for the tranny will need to be ran, as for the stock lines are about 4 inches to long.
To add to this part i would like to suggest that if you are running a pretty large stall 3500+ the i would get a nice trans cooler but even if you have a 3000 stall i would still suggest getting one because they are just cheap insurance.
I suggest the B&M 24000GVM Here is a LINK
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...y=Transmission
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
You will need to get a new Transmission mount as the old one will not work with the new crossmember or transmission. I just went to my local Advance auto parts and asked for a transmission mount for a 1977 camaro and it worked perfectly.
You will need to get your tuner to turn everything off that has to do with the transmission bc now the transmission is controlled by YOU and not a computer
.Also some of the bellhousing bolts will not be used, as for the 4L60E had like 8 bolts holding it on to the block the TH350 only uses i think 5 or 6 can't really remember off the top of my head. Just dont be worried when you have extra hardware
I think that about sums it up, but if i have forgot something then let me know and ill add it..
Your welcome guys
Thanks
B.J.
05-01-2007, 02:45 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by bjamick
I figured i would just post up all the parts that i used in my swap to the TH350. I will add part numbers also because i have been seeing alot of post about TH350's. Maybe if people use the search function this will stop all the post about the TH350s if we compose alot of info in here.
First off you need to either buy a TH350 that is already built, or buy a rebuildable core from a junkyard or where ever you prefer. I personally bought mine off ebay with all the Heavy duty parts inside and with a trans brake and all the goodies. If you order a TH350 with a Full manual valve body this will mean that in order for the transmission to shift you will have to do it!!!
http://www.performabuilt.com/ Link to TH350 transmissions
A forward manual valve body will go like this: P R N 3 2 1
A reverse manual valve body will go like this: P R N 1 2 3
Any TH350 can be made with either a forward or reverse manual valve body, all you have to do is make sure that you get a shifter that will comply with which ever you get..
When you go to buy your Transmission, you want to make sure and positive that you get the long tail shaft (9") so you can still use your stock driveshaft. If you go with a short tailshaft then you will have to have a new driveshaft cut. So make sure and specify whichever you want at the time of purchase.
Parts Needed.
With the TH350 the stock VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) from the 4L60E will not work and a new conversion piece will be needed. Alot of people go with Rossler to get this part but since they are a non sponsor i will not post a link to their site. Just make sure you are ready to shell out around $250 for the whole setup.
OR
You can follow SUX2BU's write up on the free way to make the speedo work with the TH350. Here is the link to his thread just in case you are wondering what im talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=479729
You will also need a new crossmember preferably with the torque arm relocation on it. I went with BMR and everything went pretty well with it, i highly recommend this product. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
On the BMR link, the crossmember you need will be at the very bottom of the page, look for 98-02 F-Body with TH350.
Im not for sure if UMI or Spohn carries the crossmembers i've just always heard of BMR.
Also a new transmission Dipstick will be needed, as for me i went with the MadMan dipstick from thunder racing.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&sid=743#P5262
As for the install of that dipstick, it only took me maybe 5min at the most, start to finish. Some people use the flexible Lokar and i believe if you go this route the dipstick needs to be 36" i believe but dont hold me to that. I personally would not go the Lokar route just bc of the bad reviews i've heard about how long it takes to put fluid in. Just search around a bit and look at the different thoughts other people have had with the 2.
As for the o2 sensors i have heard that they wouldn't work with the TH350. I'm not for sure why they said this but maybe if your running just that certain type of headers then maybe then it wont clear. As for me i am running SLP long tubes and my O2's clear with room to spare so this is just my experience and as i said maybe with a different set of headers the o2 sensor may need to be relocated.
Now on to the Torque Converter. Either you will have to buy a new TCI flexplate that will work with the TH350 converter, or you can have a Torque converter company such as Yank, Vigilante, or TCI or whoever you prefer to make you a custom converter that will work with the stock LS1 flexplate and also with the TH350.
If you have a 98 model F-Body then your stock flexplate will have 2 sets of holes in it. One of those sets will work with the TH350 converter. I believe you will just need tell the Converter company that you are putting this in an LS1 so that way they will know to extend the output shaft on the converter so it will reach the crank.
New coolant lines for the tranny will need to be ran, as for the stock lines are about 4 inches to long.
To add to this part i would like to suggest that if you are running a pretty large stall 3500+ the i would get a nice trans cooler but even if you have a 3000 stall i would still suggest getting one because they are just cheap insurance.
I suggest the B&M 24000GVM Here is a LINK
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...y=Transmission
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
You will need to get a new Transmission mount as the old one will not work with the new crossmember or transmission. I just went to my local Advance auto parts and asked for a transmission mount for a 1977 camaro and it worked perfectly.
You will need to get your tuner to turn everything off that has to do with the transmission bc now the transmission is controlled by YOU and not a computer.
Also some of the bellhousing bolts will not be used, as for the 4L60E had like 8 bolts holding it on to the block the TH350 only uses i think 5 or 6 can't really remember off the top of my head. Just dont be worried when you have extra hardware
I think that about sums it up, but if i have forgot something then let me know and ill add it..
Your welcome guys
Thanks
B.J.
First off you need to either buy a TH350 that is already built, or buy a rebuildable core from a junkyard or where ever you prefer. I personally bought mine off ebay with all the Heavy duty parts inside and with a trans brake and all the goodies. If you order a TH350 with a Full manual valve body this will mean that in order for the transmission to shift you will have to do it!!!
http://www.performabuilt.com/ Link to TH350 transmissions
A forward manual valve body will go like this: P R N 3 2 1
A reverse manual valve body will go like this: P R N 1 2 3
Any TH350 can be made with either a forward or reverse manual valve body, all you have to do is make sure that you get a shifter that will comply with which ever you get..
When you go to buy your Transmission, you want to make sure and positive that you get the long tail shaft (9") so you can still use your stock driveshaft. If you go with a short tailshaft then you will have to have a new driveshaft cut. So make sure and specify whichever you want at the time of purchase.
Parts Needed.
With the TH350 the stock VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) from the 4L60E will not work and a new conversion piece will be needed. Alot of people go with Rossler to get this part but since they are a non sponsor i will not post a link to their site. Just make sure you are ready to shell out around $250 for the whole setup
.OR
You can follow SUX2BU's write up on the free way to make the speedo work with the TH350. Here is the link to his thread just in case you are wondering what im talking about. https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=479729
You will also need a new crossmember preferably with the torque arm relocation on it. I went with BMR and everything went pretty well with it, i highly recommend this product. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyChassis.htm
On the BMR link, the crossmember you need will be at the very bottom of the page, look for 98-02 F-Body with TH350.
Im not for sure if UMI or Spohn carries the crossmembers i've just always heard of BMR.
Also a new transmission Dipstick will be needed, as for me i went with the MadMan dipstick from thunder racing.
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...&sid=743#P5262
As for the install of that dipstick, it only took me maybe 5min at the most, start to finish. Some people use the flexible Lokar and i believe if you go this route the dipstick needs to be 36" i believe but dont hold me to that. I personally would not go the Lokar route just bc of the bad reviews i've heard about how long it takes to put fluid in. Just search around a bit and look at the different thoughts other people have had with the 2.
As for the o2 sensors i have heard that they wouldn't work with the TH350. I'm not for sure why they said this but maybe if your running just that certain type of headers then maybe then it wont clear. As for me i am running SLP long tubes and my O2's clear with room to spare so this is just my experience and as i said maybe with a different set of headers the o2 sensor may need to be relocated.
Now on to the Torque Converter. Either you will have to buy a new TCI flexplate that will work with the TH350 converter, or you can have a Torque converter company such as Yank, Vigilante, or TCI or whoever you prefer to make you a custom converter that will work with the stock LS1 flexplate and also with the TH350.
If you have a 98 model F-Body then your stock flexplate will have 2 sets of holes in it. One of those sets will work with the TH350 converter. I believe you will just need tell the Converter company that you are putting this in an LS1 so that way they will know to extend the output shaft on the converter so it will reach the crank.
New coolant lines for the tranny will need to be ran, as for the stock lines are about 4 inches to long.
To add to this part i would like to suggest that if you are running a pretty large stall 3500+ the i would get a nice trans cooler but even if you have a 3000 stall i would still suggest getting one because they are just cheap insurance.
I suggest the B&M 24000GVM Here is a LINK
http://www.ls1speed.com/catagory.cfm...y=Transmission
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
You will need to get a new Transmission mount as the old one will not work with the new crossmember or transmission. I just went to my local Advance auto parts and asked for a transmission mount for a 1977 camaro and it worked perfectly.
You will need to get your tuner to turn everything off that has to do with the transmission bc now the transmission is controlled by YOU and not a computer
.Also some of the bellhousing bolts will not be used, as for the 4L60E had like 8 bolts holding it on to the block the TH350 only uses i think 5 or 6 can't really remember off the top of my head. Just dont be worried when you have extra hardware
I think that about sums it up, but if i have forgot something then let me know and ill add it..
Your welcome guys
Thanks
B.J.
Great Post!! Glad to hear you where happy with the crossmember
Let me know if you have any other questions.Lee spicher
lee@bmrfabrication.com
(813)986-9302
05-01-2007, 04:27 PM
#5
Ya i loved the crossmember just had to play with the tranny a lil to get it to line up but no biggie.
CHVYMAN Yes if you get the 9" tailshaft or long tailshaft then yes you can use your stock driveshaft, if you get a short tailshaft your gunna have to get one cut for you specification.
Hope this post helps some people out bc there has been a number of post asking about TH350 conversions so i made this to help everyone out...
CHVYMAN Yes if you get the 9" tailshaft or long tailshaft then yes you can use your stock driveshaft, if you get a short tailshaft your gunna have to get one cut for you specification.
Hope this post helps some people out bc there has been a number of post asking about TH350 conversions so i made this to help everyone out...
05-01-2007, 06:04 PM
#6
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thats pretty much it. i did the same thing with mine and its worked fine so far. i used a stock TH350 convertor and the special SFI flexplate since i have access to about 100 different TH350 stalls here in central GA lol.
05-02-2007, 06:59 AM
#7
Originally Posted by slow95z
thats pretty much it. i did the same thing with mine and its worked fine so far. i used a stock TH350 convertor and the special SFI flexplate since i have access to about 100 different TH350 stalls here in central GA lol.
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05-06-2007, 07:32 AM
#10
Originally Posted by bjamick
I believe you will just need tell the Converter company that you are putting this in an LS1 so that way they will know to extend the output shaft on the converter so it will reach the crank.
Originally Posted by bjamick
New coolant lines for the tranny will need to be ran, as for the stock lines are about 4 inches to long.
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
As for the coolant lines just measure about how much hose or metal line you will need and just go to a parts store and they should have whatever type of line you want to run. I've heard of people using Metal Break line bc its kinda flexible and wont corrode over time. As for me i will prob just use some fuel line so that away it wont corrode either from the trans fluid.
If you want to go a step further you can double flare the stock 10mm line and use an inverted flare union to connect it to a hose barb. And also use a inverted flare to hose barb fitting on the trans. You might end up with 3 or 4 inches of hose, and less is better IMO.
05-06-2007, 01:14 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Tell the converter company you need an LS1 CRANK PILOT, might eliminate some confusion.
Why not just cut it off and slide the rubber TRANSMISSION COOLER HOSE (NOT fuel line) over it? It will be a much cleaner installation.
If you want to go a step further you can double flare the stock 10mm line and use an inverted flare union to connect it to a hose barb. And also use a inverted flare to hose barb fitting on the trans. You might end up with 3 or 4 inches of hose, and less is better IMO.
Why not just cut it off and slide the rubber TRANSMISSION COOLER HOSE (NOT fuel line) over it? It will be a much cleaner installation.
If you want to go a step further you can double flare the stock 10mm line and use an inverted flare union to connect it to a hose barb. And also use a inverted flare to hose barb fitting on the trans. You might end up with 3 or 4 inches of hose, and less is better IMO.
Come on guys lets add alot of info in here so maybe it will get stickied and all TH350 questions can be answered by reading this post
05-07-2007, 06:42 AM
#12
Sorry if the question is dumb... But what's the point of installing TH350 if you have to shift it manually (but without clutch)? I thought whole point of having auto is fast and consistent shifting, which we will not have in this case.
Plase clarify this bit!
Plase clarify this bit!
05-07-2007, 09:16 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Vetal
Sorry if the question is dumb... But what's the point of installing TH350 if you have to shift it manually (but without clutch)? I thought whole point of having auto is fast and consistent shifting, which we will not have in this case.
Plase clarify this bit!
Plase clarify this bit!
Also the TH350 is stronger than the 4L60E and thats the reason behind doing the swap. Also the swap has shown lower ET's for most people also.
05-07-2007, 05:31 PM
#18
This is the problem with sticky threads, too much BS gets leaked into them and it gets frustrating weeding through it all to find information on THE SUBJECT. This is why you see so many repeat questions when theres a sticky about it. People give up reading it and ask their specific question.
There are many things to be discussed other than general, theory of operation type questions.
Sorry to speak my mind but stick to 'This IS whats Needed for 4L60E to TH350 swap' and less of the how to drive it, what fliud to use, who sells th350's, what color should I paint it, etc.
There are many things to be discussed other than general, theory of operation type questions.
Sorry to speak my mind but stick to 'This IS whats Needed for 4L60E to TH350 swap' and less of the how to drive it, what fliud to use, who sells th350's, what color should I paint it, etc.
10-09-2013, 08:58 AM
#19
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so as far as the flexplate/ converter goes.
I have a 98 ls1 so I have to two holes in my flexplate
Is there another way to bolt a regular 350/400 converter to that flexplate or Is it just better to get the other flexplate and use normal converter?
I have a 98 ls1 so I have to two holes in my flexplate
Is there another way to bolt a regular 350/400 converter to that flexplate or Is it just better to get the other flexplate and use normal converter?
11-15-2014, 12:40 AM
#20
Can anyone tell me what wiring changes need to be made with the th350 shifter?? The stock 4l60e has a big plug on the side with 6 wires attached. Car will not start with this un plugged. Everyone talks about cutting and splicing but no one is specific or has pictures of what to do????? Can anyone help???
