Tranny slipping when shifting, 93 firebird...vacum?
#1
Tranny slipping when shifting, 93 firebird...vacum?
Ok I just bought a 93 Firebird, It is an lt1 car with an automatic tranny. I installed a Nitrous Works wet kit, the one that includes the plate that goes in between the throttle body and intake manifold. When I was prying on the throttle body I heard a pop and it sounded like something broke. I see a cruise control cable, throttle cable and what seems to be a kick down cable? The car is now slipping in between shifts. I have NOT hooked up the nitrous yet because of this problem.
Did I pull a vacum hose loose? I pray so, any help guys?
Did I pull a vacum hose loose? I pray so, any help guys?
#2
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well the 4l60 is not controlled by vacumm it is controlled by governor and throttle pressure the cable being the throttle pressure if that cable got broken or damaged or is not working for some reason then that could be your problem and even on a vacumm modualted tranny it would not make it slip if there were no vacumm low vacumm means high throttle pressure
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most parts stores should have a replacement cable and no its not hard just a 10mm bolt in the side of the case hook the cable to the linkage inside the tranny rebolt the 10mm bolt route it up through the back of the engine and reconnect to the TB just make sure it is adjusted properly
#6
I removed the bolt that holds the cable into the tranny and had my roommate pull the cable at the throttle body and it was pulling at the tranny. The cable is not busted. The cable is about 1/2" further forward because of the spacer for the nitrous kit, could this cause a drop in pressure from the cable having more tension on it? The fluid level is fine, the car was running fine before I started on it with the nitrous install.
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#8
Yes, the adjustment is absolutely critical to the proper operation of that transmission.
Did you break the cable houding... is that the noise you heard? If so replace it.
Yes a 1/2in is a whole bunch!!!!! Did the housing move or did the cable housing stay in place and the cable moved?
g
Did you break the cable houding... is that the noise you heard? If so replace it.
Yes a 1/2in is a whole bunch!!!!! Did the housing move or did the cable housing stay in place and the cable moved?
g
#9
Originally Posted by Ratchthed
Yes, the adjustment is absolutely critical to the proper operation of that transmission.
Did you break the cable houding... is that the noise you heard? If so replace it.
Yes a 1/2in is a whole bunch!!!!! Did the housing move or did the cable housing stay in place and the cable moved?
g
Did you break the cable houding... is that the noise you heard? If so replace it.
Yes a 1/2in is a whole bunch!!!!! Did the housing move or did the cable housing stay in place and the cable moved?
g
The only thing I can think of is that when I installed that nitrous plate the cable is being pulled, is there a way to reset the tension in the cable? I will recheck everything in the morning when I am fresh and not stressed,lol. Thanks for the quick response!
#11
With a clear head this morning I pressed in on the button on the kickdown cable, then I was able to slide the end of the cable forward or backward. I slid it toward the firewall all the way and went for a drive, immediatly the car did not want to shift into 2nd until I let out of the throttle. I pulled over and adjusted it forward a bit. Seemed to fix the problem and the shifts are even a hair firmer than before. Firmer = better for clutches, less friction, correct? Thanks for the help!
#12
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Yes and sounds good like problem is solved
Originally Posted by teezlr
With a clear head this morning I pressed in on the button on the kickdown cable, then I was able to slide the end of the cable forward or backward. I slid it toward the firewall all the way and went for a drive, immediatly the car did not want to shift into 2nd until I let out of the throttle. I pulled over and adjusted it forward a bit. Seemed to fix the problem and the shifts are even a hair firmer than before. Firmer = better for clutches, less friction, correct? Thanks for the help!
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#14
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Sounds like the "pop" noise was the adjuster slipping one notch.
To readjust it, you have to hold in the button, move the cable nose away from the throttle lever, release the button; then slowly open the the throttle lever all the way, as you do this the adjuster pops a few notches.
The throttle cable controls both line pressure and shift points...
tight cable increases line pressure and raises shift point;
loose cable decreases line pressure and lowers shift point.
If the geometry of the throttle lever is altered then part throttle line pressure and/or shift points will be off.
To readjust it, you have to hold in the button, move the cable nose away from the throttle lever, release the button; then slowly open the the throttle lever all the way, as you do this the adjuster pops a few notches.
The throttle cable controls both line pressure and shift points...
tight cable increases line pressure and raises shift point;
loose cable decreases line pressure and lowers shift point.
If the geometry of the throttle lever is altered then part throttle line pressure and/or shift points will be off.
Last edited by joecar; 07-30-2007 at 02:12 PM. Reason: My typos and spelling...