another a4 that won't shift to 3rd
 

instead of hijacking someone else's thread, i figured it would be best to start my own.

car was driving fine for about 10-15 miles .. then i'm coasting down a hill going 70mph and all of a sudden my rpms drop to idle speed like i threw the car into neutral.
after that, in drive or overdrive, the car would take off in 1st and shift to 2nd normally, but never would hit 3rd. i could get it almost into 3rd (or was it 4th?) if i took it up to like 4000+ rpm 45mph, but it would immediately go in and out of gear and drop back down to 2nd or what felt like neutral.
what's with 4L60Es not shifting into 3rd????

i should add that the other night i came back from a 500 mile drive and at the end, once the car had a little trouble taking off in 1st. it would rev up a little then catch (violently).

i checked the tranny temp and fluid with the car idling in park after the drive. temperature was 220 degrees and the fluid was pink (almost red, but no metal). i did not smell burnt clutch in the fluid, but then again, i'm not too sure what that smell would be like.

i'm looking for clues if anyone's got any.


also, if it is the 3/4 clutch, how much would that cost to fix?

It does sound like you are having a problem with the 3-4 clutch. How many miles are on your transmission? Are you getting and codes or ses light? Also how large of a stall are you running?

You sound like (as Vince said )you are having a 3-4 clutch failure. As for why they fail most often? well reguardless of whats done and while you can make vast improvements, The 3-4 clutch simply due to its mechanical constraints is the weakest link in the 4L60E it has less friction area than any other gear. As far as upshifts they Must hold in both 3rd and 4th gears and it is the most complicated shift the trans makes as the same oil that applies the 3-4 must simultaniously release the 2nd servo and in the case of the D position turn on the overun clutch during the 2-3 shift.It does not turn the overun clutch on during the 2-3 shift in the OD position.
As for repair most shops wont simply replace the 3-4 clutch pack unless the trans is new. then generally if they do they will not warranty anything beyond the 3-4 set if that:(

thanks

the transmission has 58k miles on it. no ses light and no codes. i did have torque management removed for about 5k miles, but it is back on now. i am on the stock stall.

i'm curious now how much this is going to cost to fix.

Well you can get a built trans (Check our website for pricing) or you can goto a shop most shops will want to do a complete rebuild for warranty. You are looking average 1500 to 2500 dollars depending on your location some a little higher and some a little lower but thats a ball park :( Sorry I know thats bad news)

i really don't want to rebuild or replace my transmission, but if that's what i gotta do, that's what i'll do.

if i have to replace it, i'm going with a 4L80-E.. the sticky says i'll need a new converter too? would this be the cost effective time to convert to m6, or would that cost thousands more?

Same thing happen to my car. When i dropped the pan i infact had metallic particals everywhere. Didnt notice them when i checked fluid.

I'm Accually waiting for my new Racing Tranny to come as we speak. I already have my 3500 stall waiting in its box :D

yeah i'm looking at 1900 to 2200 for a rebuild... what i really want is a conversion to a 4L80E, but i don't have the time to put it together myself and shops around here don't seem to know how to do it.

Vince at FLT sells one hell of a 4L80E. I've heard of their level 5 holding 1000+rwhp consistently from several people. If you have the money, that's where I'd look. Expect a conversion to cost $3,000 - $4,000, probably closer to $4,000 if you decide to get one from FLT. They aren't cheap, but you get what you pay for.

Their level 3 looks pretty affordable, but I don't know what they're rated at. PM Vince, I'm sure he'll be able to hook you up with a nasty 80E.