TH350/TH400 Frequently Asked Questions
03-09-2014, 09:45 PM
#41
Most use the 19257940 GM bolts (1.00" UHL). However, you can use ATI 951385 (sold ea) which are custom made for ATI by ARP. They are 11 x 1.5 x 30mm (1.18"), which will give you .780" engagement (minus the flexplate thickness). I'm not sure how deep the threads go into the crank (I'll find out when put the TH400 in this weekend), but you can always cut them down if need be. I'm assuming they work as the stock replacement ARP bolts are .880" and when you add the .400" thick spacer, you only use a bolt that's .120" longer.
03-09-2014, 10:15 PM
#42
Basically, if you have a standard LS converter with no spacer you use the 244-2901 (.880" UHL) bolts, if you use the .400" spacer for a pre-LS converter spacing you use the 19257940 (1.000" UHL) bolts. So if you have a .100" flexplate (I don't have a stock flexplate available so I'm just using a round number for illustration purposes):
ARP 244-2901: .880 - .100 = .780 engagement
GM 19257940: 1.000 - .100 - .400 = .500 engagement
ATI 951385: 1.18 - .100 - .400 = .680 engagement
So, I concluded that the ATI 951385 would be a better fit if you're running a .400 spacer.
ARP 244-2901: .880 - .100 = .780 engagement
GM 19257940: 1.000 - .100 - .400 = .500 engagement
ATI 951385: 1.18 - .100 - .400 = .680 engagement
So, I concluded that the ATI 951385 would be a better fit if you're running a .400 spacer.
03-16-2014, 08:51 PM
#43
Just to follow up, while the ATI 951385 is a touch longer than the GM 19257940, my assumptions were correct - they fit like a glove. So, if you are using a GM crank spacer for a TH400/TH350/Glide swap, and want an ARP bolt, the ATI 951385 fits the bill.
03-16-2014, 09:20 PM
#44
Also, to correct my math above, I mic'd my flexplate (PRW SFI), it comes to .1554. So, with my flexplate:
19257940: 1.000" UHL - .400" - .1554" = .4446" engagement
951385: 1.1811" UHL - .400" - .1554" = .6257" engagement
Still a far cry from a stock LS with .7246" engagement, but I'll take what I can get (in this case almost .200" more threads into the crank).
19257940: 1.000" UHL - .400" - .1554" = .4446" engagement
951385: 1.1811" UHL - .400" - .1554" = .6257" engagement
Still a far cry from a stock LS with .7246" engagement, but I'll take what I can get (in this case almost .200" more threads into the crank).
04-13-2014, 08:33 AM
#45
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TH400
Fitting Location Thread Size Flow Direction
Upper ¼" Pipe Return/in
Lower ¼" Pipe Cooler feed/out
4L60/4L60E/4L65E
Fitting Location Thread Size Flow Direction
Upper ¼" Pipe Return/in
Lower ¼" Pipe Cooler feed/out
Stock lines will not bolt up to a th400.
|||ok so 4l60 and th400 are both 1/4 pipe, why wouldnt the stock lines and fittings work? are the threads different?
Fitting Location Thread Size Flow Direction
Upper ¼" Pipe Return/in
Lower ¼" Pipe Cooler feed/out
4L60/4L60E/4L65E
Fitting Location Thread Size Flow Direction
Upper ¼" Pipe Return/in
Lower ¼" Pipe Cooler feed/out
Stock lines will not bolt up to a th400.
|||ok so 4l60 and th400 are both 1/4 pipe, why wouldnt the stock lines and fittings work? are the threads different?
04-13-2014, 06:51 PM
#47
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When I removed them from my 4l60e I unscrewed them from the case. Says the lines are same size so I'm wondering If it's ok to screw them into the 400 without it messing the threads up.
04-13-2014, 10:31 PM
#48
The fittings that screw into a TH400 aren't actually a 1/4 NPT, they are a 1/4 NPSM (straight fitting with no taper). So if the 4L60/E lines have no taper, they'll screw right in. If they have a taper, you can use them, but will need to be very careful when screwing them in, because if you tighten them too much, you'll crack the case.
11-13-2014, 12:05 PM
#49
Wiring
You can wire in your factory shifter wiring to your aftermarket shifter if it comes with options to do so. If not you will need to do the following-
A4 cars, connect these wires together that come out of the old shifter harness. It is a 6 wire connector going into the factory shifter.
orange w/ black stripe + black wire = hatch release to work.
Finally the brown and light green wires should NOT be wired directly together. Doing so will cause your reverse lights to stay on at all times. You can run them threw a momentary switch or just leave them apart like i did.
You can wire in your factory shifter wiring to your aftermarket shifter if it comes with options to do so. If not you will need to do the following-
A4 cars, connect these wires together that come out of the old shifter harness. It is a 6 wire connector going into the factory shifter.
orange w/ black stripe + black wire = hatch release to work.
Finally the brown and light green wires should NOT be wired directly together. Doing so will cause your reverse lights to stay on at all times. You can run them threw a momentary switch or just leave them apart like i did.
09-13-2016, 07:51 PM
#52
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Ok guys I may have over read it but what do I do with the neutral safety switch cable car was a a4 and swapping to a th400 with a tci outlaw shifter is their any wires I can connect together to make it think it's in neutral or park so I can start it thanks
10-09-2016, 08:42 AM
#53
connect the 2 thick wires together off the switch, the colors slip my mind right now, maybe purple and green or brown and green? Can't miss them they're the only 2 thick wires on shifter switch, about 12 gauge maybe 14, one of them will show power when cranking
11-20-2016, 09:57 PM
#55
ok this thread may be way way old but i have a question, just got a built th400 to put behind my already swapped 6.2 ls3 (previously manual in donor car 2010 camaro ss) i already ran an old th350 with stock converter using a flywheel from a gm 6.0 l. And the gm spacer they used with the 4l80 and bolts. I ovaled out the holes to mate it to the old style gm torque converter and ran the car for all summer no problems now i have purchased the tci 399754 as my th400 torque converter (aftermarket) bolt pattern is the larger 11.5 inch and i believe the 399753 is for the smaller bolt pattern converters.. So it seems this tci flywheel has been thickened as to not require the gm spacer and comes with shorter bolts than factory but the spacer is what the converter centering hub adapter fits snugly into so by not using the gm spacer the centering piece that comes with the flywheel doesn't work... And using the spacer with the tci flywheel puts the flywheel teeth way out of line with the starter gear. Must the converter have this centering thing or can the bolts do the same thing??? Im stumped on what should be a simple job and lost the instruction paper i think. Also no where online can i find the instructions!!!!! I explained my info to the tci tech and was told this is the flywheel i need, waiting on another reply as of now...
Thanks for any insight
Thanks for any insight
09-27-2018, 01:46 PM
#56
Wiring i’m sure its been covered by now but nothing in the original article says anything about wiring the darker green with stripe wire to the purple wire together that go into the 6 pin plug for the original shifter. Until i did that my car would not start. I’m assuming these two are the actual neutral safety switch wires
03-25-2020, 05:57 PM
#57
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I have a question if anyone is out there. I have a LS1 out of a 2002 Corvette that I'm trying to mate a 4L60E out of a 2002 Yukon. The problem is the flex plate isn't matching up. Is there anyone that could tell me which flex plate will hook these two up? Thanks
03-25-2020, 10:12 PM
#58
TECH Junkie
Only deserves a shitty poor description that gets posed as a reply/ feedback questions.
"The flex-plate is not matching up" ?????????????????????
Matching up to what???
As along as you speak English... There should be no reason that a more descriptive question or questions could have been proposed here...
So I am going to play dumb!
Enjoy!
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem crank-shaft flange holes and junk yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and **** yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be all close enough wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and ya be needin some dem washers o spacers all up in between dem and crap yo?
Do da flex-plate pilot hole not gonna be all close enough up in dere fo da torque-converter pilot to be fittin fo show yo?
What be da dilly up in yo piece sucka?
Last edited by vorteciroc; 03-25-2020 at 11:15 PM.
03-27-2020, 04:42 PM
#59
I am sorry, but a shitty poor description that gets posed as a question...
Only deserves a shitty poor description that gets posed as a reply/ feedback questions.
"The flex-plate is not matching up" ?????????????????????
Matching up to what???
As along as you speak English... There should be no reason that a more descriptive question or questions could have been proposed here...
So I am going to play dumb!
Enjoy!
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem crank-shaft flange holes and junk yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and **** yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be all close enough wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and ya be needin some dem washers o spacers all up in between dem and crap yo?
Do da flex-plate pilot hole not gonna be all close enough up in dere fo da torque-converter pilot to be fittin fo show yo?
What be da dilly up in yo piece sucka?
Only deserves a shitty poor description that gets posed as a reply/ feedback questions.
"The flex-plate is not matching up" ?????????????????????
Matching up to what???
As along as you speak English... There should be no reason that a more descriptive question or questions could have been proposed here...
So I am going to play dumb!
Enjoy!
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem crank-shaft flange holes and junk yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be lining all up wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and **** yo?
Do da flex-plate holes all not be all close enough wit dem torque-converter mounting pad holes and ya be needin some dem washers o spacers all up in between dem and crap yo?
Do da flex-plate pilot hole not gonna be all close enough up in dere fo da torque-converter pilot to be fittin fo show yo?
What be da dilly up in yo piece sucka?
08-23-2022, 10:22 AM
#60
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I was having the same problem. I ended up loosening the bolt holding the torque converter and then tightening it by hand as getting it too tight initially caused the torque converter to pull away from the other bolt holes resulting in losing my clearance and causing the torque converter to bind. I then proceeded to the next one and did it the same way and so forth until they were all in. Last but not least I went back and tightened them all down. I hope this helps!