Step by Step How to remove 4l60e transmission!!
 

Before messing with anything always, ALWAYS disconnect the battery .

Step one: Chalk the front tires and jack up the rear of the car. Put car in Neutral (Apprx time 3-5min)

2.) Grab a 3/8 Socket and ratchet. Take off the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft on. If you cant get to the bolts turn the driveshaft with your hands. Once you get the driveshaft into the right spot. Climb out from underneath the car and yank the E-brake and get back underneath the car and take the bolts off. Repeat for the other 2 bolts. Then just remover driveshaft. (Apprx time 8-12min)

Now you can lower the rear back onto the ground. (apprx time 2-3min)
Chalk the rear tires now. Then jack up the front and put your jack stands to hold the car up. It has to be pretty high. (apprx time 8-10min)

3.) Now go ahead and remove your starter with a 15mm socket. There are 2 bolts holding it on. Then remove the 2 wires that are on the starter not for sure on sizes. (apprx time 5-8min)

4.) Grab your jack and put it on the trans pan. Start loosening the crossmember bolts. There are 5 bolts holding the crossmember on. All are 15mm. (apprx time 3-6min)

5.) steadily let the jack down until you can see the cooler lines running out the passenger side of the tranny. Once you can see them tighten the jack back up and start disconnecting the cooler lines. (Have a bucket handy to catch the fluid. (Dont remember what the size is sorry.) (apprx time 15-25min)

6.) Now unplug all electric connectors (ex VSS (speedo sensor, its the big green connector) one on the tailshaft, shifter cable, and your 02 sensors). (apprx time 1-3min)

7.) Remove the brackets holding the torque arm in place. There are 3 bolts holding this on. One on top and 2 on the bottom. Watch your hands bc the torque arm can pull up really hard and fast sometimes when loose. (apprx time 5-7min)

8.) Now comes the fun part, you need to unbolt the converter from the flexplate. GM used allen head torque converter bolts in 98 and they are a pretty nice size. 99+ i believe came with actual bolts. You figure out what size fits best . You will need to have a nice sized flat head screwdriver to turn the flexplate by hand so you can get to the converter bolts. (There are 3 of them). (apprx time 10-15min)

9.) Now get a 13mm socket and all your extensions. Start removing the bellhousing bolts (There are 8 of them). This takes alot of time and alot of patience to get this step done. (apprx time 3-6 hours)


10.) Once you got all the bellhousing bolts out the trans will be probably stuck to the engine. you will need to get that flathead screwdriver you used for the converter. Use it as a wedge to pry the tranny from the engine. Make sure your jack is ready to take the weight when you get the tranny separated.
This is when you find out if you jacked up the front of the car enough . If you didn't then you will prob have to slide the tranny out by hand. Which isn't to bad but its alot easier with it on a jack . (apprx time 3-4min)


There ya go, the steps and est. time involved in removing a tranny. I wish someone would sticky this for all the new guys that ask this particular question.
Hope this help many people.

Driveshaft yoke bolts are 7/16"

Starter terminal nuts are usually 13mm and 8mm or 15mm and 10mm

Torque converter bolts are T50 plus

A pick or small screwdriver is necessary to remove cooler line E-clips

Bellhousing bolts are much easier to remove when using a universal, and removal of all bolts should take no longer than 15-20 minutes. Certainly not 3-6 hours

This really needs a lot more detail for a sticky.

If I was laying on the ground doing this, Id have the front and back of the car on jack stands, not just the front.

What about unbolting/removing the exhaust. The trans/motor want tilt back enough with the exhaust hooked up.

You can turn the flexplate/converter by putting a 24mm (I think) socket on the crank pulley and rotating it.

9.) 3-6hrs is a little erxtreme. Like I said above, unhook the exhaust the trans will fall enough to get all the bolts without much effort.

I agree, not quite sticky material. Nice thread though.

And just to add, my converter to flexplate bolts on my 99' car were an 8mm allen key. Trans cooler lines were a 19mm :)

Did you take the hole fitting out? All you had to do was pop those two c clips out.

ALright guys. Ya you can remover the whole nut and all for the tranny cooler. Or you can just remove the clip, and pull the line itself out.

As for unbolting the exhaust, I suppose you could do that, I just never had. Maybe thats why i had so much trouble getting to a few of the bolts to bolt them in.

ah, didnt know there was a clip to just pull :) I'll check that out next time i go in the garage... yea, i removed the nut

Hey, whatever works right? Yeah theres two small C clips holdin the lines in place. There not bad getting out, but a little trick getting in. Ive had a couple fly across the shop never to be found again. Now I keep a few on hand.

They're much easier going back in. You install the clips on the fittings before the line goes in. Then the line just snaps into place!

:pics:

btw .. nice write:D

2 wobble extentions along with the crossmember unbolted turns the bellhousing bolts into a 20 minute deal... Universal joints are a floppy PAIN... WOBBLE extentions.

I never disconnected my exhaust because it looks like a pain and it probably wouldnt come apart so luckily I dont have to remove it.

They never used torx on the tc bolts. They are either 8mm allen head, or 15mm hex head with a 8mm allen in the center. It helps to hold the flexplate from turning, most people seem to let the socket turn the flexplate until the socket hits the engine, then it ends up crooked and strips.

What about the dipstick? Don't unbolt it from the block guide it out as you lower it, make sure the rubber seal stays in place and put a 3" long 1/2" extension in the trans to keep fluid in, then during the install guide the dipstick back in while raising the trans.

+1 on the dipstick thing.

is there any special position the clips need to be in or do they just slip into the fitting? any position??

i am working in my garage installing a converter and definatly dont remove the trans dip stick from the block. i spent two hours prying it into place hopefully it doesnt leak damn

pics or this never happened

:pics:

Old threads, yay!


It doesn't matter which position, just clip them on.

support engine when tranny is removed?
 

I was told when I remove my tranny I need to support my engine because it has more weight in the back and will tilt down and break my dist. cap without the tranny there I thought it will sit fine on the two motor mounts its a 5.7