Are people swapping out their 4L60 for the 4L80 now?
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Are people swapping out their 4L60 for the 4L80 now?
I'm starting to see a lot of thread now. How much power can the 4L80 hold and what are they costing? How much work is it and is it worth it?
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The 4L80E can hold alot of power. Much more that to many street drivable LS1 cars can make. They are a very tough unit built for 3/4 and up ton trucks so generally in a car even a high powered car they have a pretty easy job, But it is and exspensive swap and generally from what I have see by the time you get everything your very near 5000 dollars in many cases. And it weighs considerably more than the 60e. What kind of power are you making now and what are your future plans?
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The 4L80E can hold alot of power. Much more that to many street drivable LS1 cars can make. They are a very tough unit built for 3/4 and up ton trucks so generally in a car even a high powered car they have a pretty easy job, But it is and exspensive swap and generally from what I have see by the time you get everything your very near 5000 dollars in many cases. And it weighs considerably more than the 60e. What kind of power are you making now and what are your future plans?
Will the parts commonly used with the 4L60 work on it's bigger brother? converters, mounts, wiring harness etc?
Are they generally more expensive to rebuild?
Will they handle a 4000 stall?
Sorry for all of the questions.
Dan
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I'm new to all of this stuff. I'm working on a '56 Belair and will be going LS1 (when I find one) but wanted to run the 4L80E instead of the 4L60 to avoid the failures of the 4L60 and future problems down the road.
Will the parts commonly used with the 4L60 work on it's bigger brother? converters, mounts, wiring harness etc?
Are they generally more expensive to rebuild?
Will they handle a 4000 stall?
Sorry for all of the questions.
Dan
Will the parts commonly used with the 4L60 work on it's bigger brother? converters, mounts, wiring harness etc?
Are they generally more expensive to rebuild?
Will they handle a 4000 stall?
Sorry for all of the questions.
Dan
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If I were doing an older rod swap I would be looking for a G20
van powertrain, cable throttle and iron 6.0 and 4L80E all good
to go. Hop it up from there and forget the aluminum block (or
swap that under it all, later). If you get a Camaro donor then
you are messing with special PCM problems (segment-swapped
binaries etc.) or an adaptor harness and so on, which is just
more grief. Nothing wrong with a few more cubes and a few
more pounds, the vans get no love and you'll probably save
enough bucks to pay for headers plus tuning software on the
powertrain (hell, you can probably buy a wrecked van carcass
for under a grand and have it run).
van powertrain, cable throttle and iron 6.0 and 4L80E all good
to go. Hop it up from there and forget the aluminum block (or
swap that under it all, later). If you get a Camaro donor then
you are messing with special PCM problems (segment-swapped
binaries etc.) or an adaptor harness and so on, which is just
more grief. Nothing wrong with a few more cubes and a few
more pounds, the vans get no love and you'll probably save
enough bucks to pay for headers plus tuning software on the
powertrain (hell, you can probably buy a wrecked van carcass
for under a grand and have it run).
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tranny-800 shipped
tranny mount-250
speartech wiring harness-200
yank converter-900(top of the line)
new driveshaft(although most say they dont need one)-500(top of line)
dust shield-55
braided cooling lines and fittings-125(top of line)
tranny cooler-120(top of line)
flexible dipstick-80
tci sfi flexplate-220(top of line)
I dont have my receipts with me but its pretty close to whats above.
So just call it 3500 bucks in parts. I went all out, keep that in mind. You could shave 5-6 hundo pretty easy if you wanted, although i wouldnt recommend it.
It all depends what you are doing in the future, if you are going to have 500-600+hp do it now and save multiple 4l60e's.
IF lower im sure you can get a 4l60e.