looking into a CTS-V, have some questions
04-28-2009, 10:30 PM
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looking into a CTS-V, have some questions Hi guys, im looking into a CTS-V and have some questions. i currently have a 600+ WHP 04 cobra and im looking for something that can easily be a DD and fun to drive and still take out on the weekend and "play". now i know unless i heavily mod the CTS-V it will never be what my cobra is, but i dont want that, i want a nice car to drive around.
first off, what should i look for, and look out for when buying one? what are the known problems/reliability issues?
i do plan on modding lightly because hey, you gotta **** with it, nothing is "good enough". what are considered "basic" mods? what kind of power can be made with basic mods? what kind of supporting mods have to be done (clutch, tranny, rear, fuel) for these basic mods? how reliable is it with these mods? how manerable, and how does it affect fuel mileage?
say i wanted to add a mild came just to make it a little radical, what will this do to the fuel mileage, and drivability?
i really am looking for a nice, fun, practical, reliable car, and i think i can get just that with the CTS-V.
first off, what should i look for, and look out for when buying one? what are the known problems/reliability issues?
i do plan on modding lightly because hey, you gotta **** with it, nothing is "good enough". what are considered "basic" mods? what kind of power can be made with basic mods? what kind of supporting mods have to be done (clutch, tranny, rear, fuel) for these basic mods? how reliable is it with these mods? how manerable, and how does it affect fuel mileage?
say i wanted to add a mild came just to make it a little radical, what will this do to the fuel mileage, and drivability?
i really am looking for a nice, fun, practical, reliable car, and i think i can get just that with the CTS-V.
04-28-2009, 10:43 PM
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Known problems are the rear, radio buttons, motor mounts, a few people have had tranny problems.
Mods. Most basic mods are LT's, cold air intake, fast 90, cat back, tune, cam. The V responds to mods like any other lsx based engine. They also love spray if you want to go that route.
As far as reliability, it's just like with your termi, if the car has good parts and a good tune then you're ok.
The best mod for this car is a shifter. The stocker feels like a tube sock full of golf *****. There is a thread below that talks about the big 3 in the V shifter business.
Mods. Most basic mods are LT's, cold air intake, fast 90, cat back, tune, cam. The V responds to mods like any other lsx based engine. They also love spray if you want to go that route.
As far as reliability, it's just like with your termi, if the car has good parts and a good tune then you're ok.
The best mod for this car is a shifter. The stocker feels like a tube sock full of golf *****. There is a thread below that talks about the big 3 in the V shifter business.
04-28-2009, 10:53 PM
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i know this is going to be a klunt slugging match in about 15 mins but, but, but...
stay away from the 04-05's as they were the frankenstien years and them bolts
in it's neck aint cute.
06-07 is what you want and the reasons are many, but to find out you'll have to pm me on the side as i can't flame the comunity publicly as it's not in goods taste, as most of these guys have said modle yrs and really take pride in what they own and understandibly so.
untill i hear from you, you'll just have to trust a guy that shoots from the hip...lol
or if i get called out publicly here on this thread then i'll of course i'll retort mike nice style.
=]
stay away from the 04-05's as they were the frankenstien years and them bolts
in it's neck aint cute.
06-07 is what you want and the reasons are many, but to find out you'll have to pm me on the side as i can't flame the comunity publicly as it's not in goods taste, as most of these guys have said modle yrs and really take pride in what they own and understandibly so.
untill i hear from you, you'll just have to trust a guy that shoots from the hip...lol
or if i get called out publicly here on this thread then i'll of course i'll retort mike nice style.
=]
04-28-2009, 10:53 PM
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what is the problem with the rear? i havnt pinpointed the exact problem. what tranny problems have people had? was it becuase of hevay mods? was the rear end problems because of heavy mods? the radio button problem is easily taken care of, but i was looking at getting one with NAV.
as far as the longtube's, how is install? i knwo most think putting LT's on terminators is very hard, but i can knock out a set in 5 hours, and i dont find it too hard. what kind of power comes from the longtubes? i really dotn know a whole hell of alot about LSX motors.
of course when i buy parts i buy once cry once, and i would get the best tune i could for drivability.
well you put the shifter feel nicely, i honestly thought it felt like a ***** as soft as it was. ive already checked out the thread none the less.
what is the cam going to do to drivability and fuel mileage? i know that intake, and exhaust tend to help it, and certainly not hurt it, but in many cars cams hurt driveability and fuel mileage. im not expecting 40MPG, or i'd buy a civic, but if i cant get atleast 20MPG on the highway, forget it, my cobra gets 30MPG on the highway.
i would probably be looking at doing intake and exhaust immediatly, will this require a tune on these cars? will probably do longtubes following that, then maybe a cam.
as far as the longtube's, how is install? i knwo most think putting LT's on terminators is very hard, but i can knock out a set in 5 hours, and i dont find it too hard. what kind of power comes from the longtubes? i really dotn know a whole hell of alot about LSX motors.
of course when i buy parts i buy once cry once, and i would get the best tune i could for drivability.
well you put the shifter feel nicely, i honestly thought it felt like a ***** as soft as it was. ive already checked out the thread none the less.
what is the cam going to do to drivability and fuel mileage? i know that intake, and exhaust tend to help it, and certainly not hurt it, but in many cars cams hurt driveability and fuel mileage. im not expecting 40MPG, or i'd buy a civic, but if i cant get atleast 20MPG on the highway, forget it, my cobra gets 30MPG on the highway.
i would probably be looking at doing intake and exhaust immediatly, will this require a tune on these cars? will probably do longtubes following that, then maybe a cam.
04-28-2009, 10:56 PM
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i know this is going to be a klunt slugging match in about 15 mins but, but, but...
stay away from the 04-05's as they were the frankenstien years and them bolts
in it's neck aint cute.
06-07 is what you want and the reasons are many, but to find out you'll have to pm me on the side as i can't flame the comunity publicly as it's not in goods taste, as most of these guys have said modle yrs and really take pride in what they own and understandibly so.
untill i hear from you, you'll just have to trust a guy that shoots from the hip...lol
or if i get called out publicly here on this thread then i'll of course i'll retort mike nice style.
=]
stay away from the 04-05's as they were the frankenstien years and them bolts
in it's neck aint cute.
06-07 is what you want and the reasons are many, but to find out you'll have to pm me on the side as i can't flame the comunity publicly as it's not in goods taste, as most of these guys have said modle yrs and really take pride in what they own and understandibly so.
untill i hear from you, you'll just have to trust a guy that shoots from the hip...lol
or if i get called out publicly here on this thread then i'll of course i'll retort mike nice style.
=]
04-28-2009, 11:09 PM
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what is the problem with the rear? i havnt pinpointed the exact problem. what tranny problems have people had? was it becuase of hevay mods? was the rear end problems because of heavy mods? the radio button problem is easily taken care of, but i was looking at getting one with NAV.
as far as the longtube's, how is install? i knwo most think putting LT's on terminators is very hard, but i can knock out a set in 5 hours, and i dont find it too hard. what kind of power comes from the longtubes? i really dotn know a whole hell of alot about LSX motors.
of course when i buy parts i buy once cry once, and i would get the best tune i could for drivability.
well you put the shifter feel nicely, i honestly thought it felt like a ***** as soft as it was. ive already checked out the thread none the less.
what is the cam going to do to drivability and fuel mileage? i know that intake, and exhaust tend to help it, and certainly not hurt it, but in many cars cams hurt driveability and fuel mileage. im not expecting 40MPG, or i'd buy a civic, but if i cant get atleast 20MPG on the highway, forget it, my cobra gets 30MPG on the highway.
i would probably be looking at doing intake and exhaust immediatly, will this require a tune on these cars? will probably do longtubes following that, then maybe a cam.
as far as the longtube's, how is install? i knwo most think putting LT's on terminators is very hard, but i can knock out a set in 5 hours, and i dont find it too hard. what kind of power comes from the longtubes? i really dotn know a whole hell of alot about LSX motors.
of course when i buy parts i buy once cry once, and i would get the best tune i could for drivability.
well you put the shifter feel nicely, i honestly thought it felt like a ***** as soft as it was. ive already checked out the thread none the less.
what is the cam going to do to drivability and fuel mileage? i know that intake, and exhaust tend to help it, and certainly not hurt it, but in many cars cams hurt driveability and fuel mileage. im not expecting 40MPG, or i'd buy a civic, but if i cant get atleast 20MPG on the highway, forget it, my cobra gets 30MPG on the highway.
i would probably be looking at doing intake and exhaust immediatly, will this require a tune on these cars? will probably do longtubes following that, then maybe a cam.
The tranny issues are usually revolving around reverse and the shifter wanting to pop out. Nothing major but deff something to think about.
LT's, I've never installed them but my guess would be arounf 6 hr install with a lift. You'd pick up around 25rwhp, maybe more depending on other mods to the car.
Cam: As long as you don't get a radical cam drivability won't be affected. Again, thats where the tune comes in also.
Milage: With my mods I get a best of 27 on the highway and a worst of 24 on the highway. There are a couple people getting more and a couple getting less. It all depends on your foot and your tune.
With intake exhaust you won't "need" a tune but it'll help out. Wait4me is where I bought my "canned" tune and it makes a diff. Once I get LT's and or cam I'll get a dyno tune.
04-28-2009, 11:19 PM
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so what would be the fix for the rear? i know i have to watch out for hop in the cobra but its pretty much eliminated because of all the mods i have the the rear, and we break halfshafts when we hop, but i have level 5's to help with that too. i certainly dont want to drop thousands fixing the rear.
tranny issues dont sound bad at all, how is the clutch? what kind of power do they typically hold? is it a T56 transmission?
tranny issues dont sound bad at all, how is the clutch? what kind of power do they typically hold? is it a T56 transmission?
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04-28-2009, 11:23 PM
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The fix for the rear is a $7500 rear made by madman. The limited fix is the kars kit for around $500.
Yes T56
Clutch: Most of the guys with maggies are still on the stocker and they hold well. It really all depends on the previous owner and how hard the slipped the clutch. I have the ls7 clutch because I had the trans replaced and when I was in there I figured I might as well do the clutch.
Yes T56
Clutch: Most of the guys with maggies are still on the stocker and they hold well. It really all depends on the previous owner and how hard the slipped the clutch. I have the ls7 clutch because I had the trans replaced and when I was in there I figured I might as well do the clutch.
04-29-2009, 12:11 AM
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just get the 06 or 07 and have peice of mind with the trans and rear as they were both revised by GM do to servicing issues in the prior two yrs.
also the 06 modles got an ls2 364 ci instead of the ls6 346ci.
the ls2 has a 6 bolt main better timing chain and oiling system & repsonds better to mods and has a 90mm tb stock and a real strut tower brace, not a coat hanger with two bolts on each strut tower.( you can litterally bend it with your hands) all modles come with nav but the 06's have radio controlls on the sterring wheel. the m12 t56 trans is stronger with revised hardened scyncros and better shifting (you'll still need to upgrade the shifter) i use the b&m and it has a notchy gated race feel, i love it.
lastly the newer rear end is much better and i've had no issues other than a busted upper cradle bushing let go, and i've got a few extra ponies than most. dont expect to launch this car from a dig as wheelhop at times is really harsh, and if you drive through it you will bust bushings or worse at your own detrament. this is a flat straight hiway to backroad twisty wet dream sedan, with brakes that are as fun to stomp on as the gas pedal. make sure you have enough warrnty in reserve and you're good to go my friend. happy hunting and please take heed to my advice. than again, who am to say what's good for another, may not be good enough for me?
also the 06 modles got an ls2 364 ci instead of the ls6 346ci.
the ls2 has a 6 bolt main better timing chain and oiling system & repsonds better to mods and has a 90mm tb stock and a real strut tower brace, not a coat hanger with two bolts on each strut tower.( you can litterally bend it with your hands) all modles come with nav but the 06's have radio controlls on the sterring wheel. the m12 t56 trans is stronger with revised hardened scyncros and better shifting (you'll still need to upgrade the shifter) i use the b&m and it has a notchy gated race feel, i love it.
lastly the newer rear end is much better and i've had no issues other than a busted upper cradle bushing let go, and i've got a few extra ponies than most. dont expect to launch this car from a dig as wheelhop at times is really harsh, and if you drive through it you will bust bushings or worse at your own detrament. this is a flat straight hiway to backroad twisty wet dream sedan, with brakes that are as fun to stomp on as the gas pedal. make sure you have enough warrnty in reserve and you're good to go my friend. happy hunting and please take heed to my advice. than again, who am to say what's good for another, may not be good enough for me?
04-29-2009, 06:13 AM
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The LS6 motor in the 04-05 has just as much potential as the LS2 in the 06-07. There will be a huge debate... this comes from who has which motor. The famous... mine is better than yours arguement.
The easiest fix and cheapest way IMO...
Buy a lightly used 04-05 and purchase the differential carrier housing for the 06-07. Runs about 700-900. The entire differential will run you about 1200-1300 if you want to go that way. Uness you know a Dealership parts guy that can get you hooked up. Having a 600+HP cobra... i am assuming you can do some of the work yourself.
06-07 prices ..... 27K+
04-05 prices ..... 17K+
04-05 purchase for 20K, differential at 1.5K, all UUC bushings $500, Short throw shifter $300. That brings you to a little over 22K. Leaving you 5K for mods before you touch a purchase price on a 06-07.
A well talked about dealership is Lindsey Cadillac. Most contact Luke for UUC bushing replacements... suspension, shifter linkages and motor mounts. I have not done so yet so i myself cannot vouch for him. But i cannot tell you how many threads i have read where members are giving him props for service and knowledge.
The easiest fix and cheapest way IMO...
Buy a lightly used 04-05 and purchase the differential carrier housing for the 06-07. Runs about 700-900. The entire differential will run you about 1200-1300 if you want to go that way. Uness you know a Dealership parts guy that can get you hooked up. Having a 600+HP cobra... i am assuming you can do some of the work yourself.
06-07 prices ..... 27K+
04-05 prices ..... 17K+
04-05 purchase for 20K, differential at 1.5K, all UUC bushings $500, Short throw shifter $300. That brings you to a little over 22K. Leaving you 5K for mods before you touch a purchase price on a 06-07.
A well talked about dealership is Lindsey Cadillac. Most contact Luke for UUC bushing replacements... suspension, shifter linkages and motor mounts. I have not done so yet so i myself cannot vouch for him. But i cannot tell you how many threads i have read where members are giving him props for service and knowledge.
04-29-2009, 07:28 AM
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If your looking for a wicked fun car to just tool around in, you have found your mark.
Find a car that has as few warranty issues as possible. Go as low of milage as your wallet can support.
I love the heated seats on cold mornings, and cool summer nights.
My only complaint about the 04 for a street car is the lack of steering wheel radio controls.
The rear end issue : If your running stock I feel as long as you control wheel hop and you know how to fluidly operate a manual transmission (can drive in a smooth fashion), you should be fine. I drive my V HARD on occasion. No hard launchs, no wet weather wheel spin but tire squealing fun. My rear end has yet to give me any issues. (I just knocked on wood if that tells you anything). Worst case, the rear retails for 2k.
Find a car that has as few warranty issues as possible. Go as low of milage as your wallet can support.
I love the heated seats on cold mornings, and cool summer nights.
My only complaint about the 04 for a street car is the lack of steering wheel radio controls.
The rear end issue : If your running stock I feel as long as you control wheel hop and you know how to fluidly operate a manual transmission (can drive in a smooth fashion), you should be fine. I drive my V HARD on occasion. No hard launchs, no wet weather wheel spin but tire squealing fun. My rear end has yet to give me any issues. (I just knocked on wood if that tells you anything). Worst case, the rear retails for 2k.
04-29-2009, 08:03 AM
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thanks guys for all the responses. i think im going to stick with an 04-05, i cant quite swing the $$ the 06-07 are going for or of course i would buy the newest model i could, hell if i could afford that i'd probably just bite the bullet and buy a brand new one. i want to keep the cost under $20K though, so the 06-07 is out unless somebody knwo somebody who wants to pretty mcuh give theres away. i listed my cobra up for $23K which is an absolute steal for the $20K i have in mods alone, but i did it to sell it fast so i can move on to the next.
as you said worse case scenario, i can replace the rear which isnt a big deal to me at all, its still a whole hell of alot less than the 06-07, and honestly im not worried about the $5K i would have lext over for mods too, because i'd never use it. ill probably get and intake and catback, a good tune, a shifter and call it good. i just want a nice manerable fun car to drive around, not another street beast, as you can see from my sig ive had plenty of them.
as you said worse case scenario, i can replace the rear which isnt a big deal to me at all, its still a whole hell of alot less than the 06-07, and honestly im not worried about the $5K i would have lext over for mods too, because i'd never use it. ill probably get and intake and catback, a good tune, a shifter and call it good. i just want a nice manerable fun car to drive around, not another street beast, as you can see from my sig ive had plenty of them.
04-29-2009, 10:51 AM
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Most of the older Vs have had their rears replaced and I think you'll be happy in any well maintained V. You've got the Cobra for the drag strip so don't worry about that in the V and you'll be fine. If you don't wheelhop it, the diff will last a long time and won't grenade...
04-29-2009, 11:38 AM
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yeah thats what im thinking. i really dont even go to the strip, i enjoy my car on the street, so i wont be launching it. the cobra is being sold in order to get the CTS-V.
04-29-2009, 12:32 PM
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My first diff grenaded on the strip with about 17,000 miles. It was problem free and quiet as a mouse until that vicious wheelhop session and bang. My 2nd went for about 35,000 miles and was fine although it "sang" a little. But with a B&B exhaust you never heard it much. The dealer decided to replace it so I didn't fight it. But in that time, I had dozens of track days, autocrosses and enthusiastic drives. Never a problem.
Just find a good V with an owner who willingly documents what diff work has been done...
Just find a good V with an owner who willingly documents what diff work has been done...
04-29-2009, 12:46 PM
#17
just get the 06 or 07 and have peice of mind with the trans and rear as they were both revised by GM do to servicing issues in the prior two yrs.
also the 06 modles got an ls2 364 ci instead of the ls6 346ci.
the ls2 has a 6 bolt main better timing chain and oiling system & repsonds better to mods and has a 90mm tb stock and a real strut tower brace, not a coat hanger with two bolts on each strut tower.( you can litterally bend it with your hands) all modles come with nav but the 06's have radio controlls on the sterring wheel. the m12 t56 trans is stronger with revised hardened scyncros and better shifting (you'll still need to upgrade the shifter) i use the b&m and it has a notchy gated race feel, i love it.
lastly the newer rear end is much better and i've had no issues other than a busted upper cradle bushing let go, and i've got a few extra ponies than most. dont expect to launch this car from a dig as wheelhop at times is really harsh, and if you drive through it you will bust bushings or worse at your own detrament. this is a flat straight hiway to backroad twisty wet dream sedan, with brakes that are as fun to stomp on as the gas pedal. make sure you have enough warrnty in reserve and you're good to go my friend. happy hunting and please take heed to my advice. than again, who am to say what's good for another, may not be good enough for me?
also the 06 modles got an ls2 364 ci instead of the ls6 346ci.
the ls2 has a 6 bolt main better timing chain and oiling system & repsonds better to mods and has a 90mm tb stock and a real strut tower brace, not a coat hanger with two bolts on each strut tower.( you can litterally bend it with your hands) all modles come with nav but the 06's have radio controlls on the sterring wheel. the m12 t56 trans is stronger with revised hardened scyncros and better shifting (you'll still need to upgrade the shifter) i use the b&m and it has a notchy gated race feel, i love it.
lastly the newer rear end is much better and i've had no issues other than a busted upper cradle bushing let go, and i've got a few extra ponies than most. dont expect to launch this car from a dig as wheelhop at times is really harsh, and if you drive through it you will bust bushings or worse at your own detrament. this is a flat straight hiway to backroad twisty wet dream sedan, with brakes that are as fun to stomp on as the gas pedal. make sure you have enough warrnty in reserve and you're good to go my friend. happy hunting and please take heed to my advice. than again, who am to say what's good for another, may not be good enough for me?
04-29-2009, 12:52 PM
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i didn't read that thread yet, but i did read that the new Zr1 and cts v have "unequal length rear control arms" as it makes them osculate at different frequencies and eliminates the vibration that causes wheel hop. imagine that!?
04-29-2009, 12:59 PM
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