bbrown7888

I'm getting ready to go to Virginia internation raceway for the PDX event on march 12th but before I do so I will need to upgrade the brakes on my '05 V. I bought the Motul RBF600 fluid but now I need to know what kind of pad/rotor combination will work good for street/strip. This is my daily driver so I cant run an extremely aggressive pad that only gets grip above 1200 degrees. I need something that will work 24/7 but not fail under higher temp of being beaten on for 6 hours at a track. Has anyone done this who has real world results? Links would be appreciated so I know where to buy for the best price too.

P.S. is any one else going to be at VIR for this event?

rjoffe

What kind of experience do you have driving ?

bbrown7888

Not much, I'm going to have an instructor with me the whole time. I'm more focused on a pad made for the daily driving on the street just as long as it wont fail on the track rather then trying to go as aggressive as possible with some street charicteristics.

tweeter81

I think the stock pads would be perfectly suited to your experience level. I have tracked the stock pads and rotors for a full day of lapping in very hot weather and never had a hint of a problem (with better brake fluid of course).

If you start to get better and want to go more hardcore, the Hawk HP+ for the front and HPS for the rear is a good street/track combo. The HP+ are great performers (and priced very reasonably), but squeak pretty bad after they get flogged on the track. To me, that trade off is worth it for the increase in stopping power. It should also be noted that I was running drilled and slotted rotors, which in all likelihood contributed to the bad squeaking as well.

I guess I haven't found a perfect pad yet, but I really like the Hawks.

chitown21y

iTrader: (6)

I would agree. If you just want to upgrade from stock for some fun then I would go with the Hawk's. I have run them all out with nasa on a full road race cobra and almost no fade. I would also change the fluid before you go.

Tweeter what brand of rotors are you running? Do the pads eat them yet?

rjoffe

As others have said, HP+ / HPS are a decent combo for what you want. Talk to Luke at Lindsay as he can get you very decent pricing. If you want rotors, the stock rotors are actually very decent. Do not buy anything drilled, as they will crack on you with track duty. Luke can also set you up with decent slotted rotors if you want to upgrade. The rotors will not provide that much of a performance gain that you will notice.

bbrown7888

Any favorite rotor? I'm going to upgrade also because its time to do brakes anyway.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I've had my 06 on track a couple times using HPS pads, premium rotors from NAPA and Costrol SRF fluid.

I bought my pads through my local race supplier who gives series drivers a nice discount. So, I can't help you there. The NAPA rotors are over-the-counter replacements.

rjoffe

I'm running UUC slotted from Luke at Lindsay.

bbrown7888

How do I get in touch with luke at lindsay?

whisler151

(703) 824-9670 or LButler@LindsayCadillac.com

He's great to deal with.

tweeter81

My rotors were from OC Autosports (which is the same as TriNet). They are great (and super cheap). I even used them on the track once, and they worked great there as well, but from now on I won't take chances with cracking them, I run stock blank rotors on the track.

I haven't used the Hawk HP+ pads long enough on the street to know if they are going to wear down the d/s rotors quickly or not. I will probably have a better idea of that by the end of this coming summer.

LegacyGTBiggie

I am not yet in my V but did track my old SpecV SER at Summit point on a couple of occasions. And even in my now sold LGT, tha twas more for Street and mountain road carving then track. All used HAWK HPS pads with decent braided lines and upgraded fluid. And short extensive track time, the pads held up VERY well and had decent stopping power without being too harsh on the rotors.

Be warned that HPS Hawks are dusty as HELL!

Big Bu Bu

iTrader: (4)

HP+ work good on the street as well. I ran them on the track and the street awhile and even though I run Raybestos ST-42s on the track now, I still run HP+ on the street. As tweeter said you can't go wrong with stock blank rotors. They would be be my choice if I weren't running the two piece UUCs.

jerrycecco

How are the two piece UUC rotors vs stock/factory rotors?

--Jerry

smbstyle

iTrader: (1)

I ran the stock pads and rotors this past weekend at Sebring and didnt have one bit of issue with brake fade, and I was HARD on those brakes (threshold/abs braking into every turn). They held up very well. I was running ATE super blue fluid and UUC SS lines though. Don't think that the stock pads are some P.O.S. autozone off-brand; I believe Ferodo makes our pads (but correct me if I am wrong).

SimplistikTA

One upgrade to consider is stainless steel braided hoses. I had them on my Trans Am with Hawk HPS pads and Powerslot rotors and it was a world of difference over stock. I have Hawk Ceramics(Terrible on the street. Squeal like crazy during light braking and throw all kinds of dust.) with stock rotors on my V and while it bites plenty hard and doesnt fade, I'm sure aome SS hoses will firm the pedal up some.

LegacyGTBiggie

Well the report from the CTS-V im buying is in. Only things not covered that I will need to do it the front brakes(pads/rotors)

Guess Ill be trying to reach Luke at Lindsay unless someone has a better place to go looking.

jerrycecco

My recommendation:
Steel braided brake lines
AND high temp brake fluid
....then a simple bleed before track day

this makes a world of difference

then you can change to a track pad IF you FEEL you want more braking...
but so the SS lines and fluid first and see what it feels like...

--Jerry

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

I've been open tracking for over a decade and the last 5 years I've built or helped build a dozen dedicated track cars. I've been racing my own since 2006.

The "feel" you get from changing brake lines from stock to SS braided is more from the required bleed of fluid from old to fresh more than any brake line swap