RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tt438ek38z8

this can't be normal. plugged the completely submerged needle into the hole and put in the fluid, and started pumping.

fluid level stayed the same (wasn't sucking anything in other than what goes down the hole), but i got all those bubbles. second day in a row i did it, with similar results the first time.

i pulled the needle and dumped fluid in as it sucked to make sure i didn't get any air in it.

does this say anything?

A-Bomb

iTrader: (27)

It looks like there's a plug on the mityvac that should be plugged. I have to go outside and look at mine to see what's happening.

A-Bomb

iTrader: (27)

I was wrong about the plug. Can you build suction if you put your finger on the negative side?

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

Mityvac is fine.

Now I can't get into 1st even when the car is off.

A-Bomb

iTrader: (27)

Haha! My bad. I take it your bleeding the clutch?

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

yea, i'm gonna make a new thread with everything i've gone through and link to it in this thread, then close this thread.

i have a feeling everyone will be intrigued.

RADEoN

iTrader: (12)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...l#post14445082

i'll just link it here because this has me ready to shoot myself in the face.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Are you confident your bleeder screw is sealing properly? Perhaps it's doing a decent job of keeping fluid in, but allows air to be drawn into the system when you apply vacuum?

I tried doing that once on my GTO with my mityvac kit, although with the cap sealed (it comes with all sorts of attachments) and it didn't seem to do anything. Perhaps I should try it with the needle in the hole instead; provided this method works and all

I've been doing the turkey baster method for some time and we're lucky we don't have the heat related issues I suffered on the GTO, in regard to the line getting too hot and having that stuck pedal feeling. Damn, that fluid never lasted more than a couple weeks, lol.

TexVette

iTrader: (2)

Yep, needle in the hole is how to do it properly. Mighty vac method has worked very well for me.

Replied in the other thread.

Could the bleeder extension be letting air in?

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

It's not letting air in at the slave. I put pipe thread sealer on both connections that are inside the bell housing. It could be at the far end of the remote bleeder if it isn't tightened completely, but the type of fitting doesn't require it to be cranked down by Hercules.

JNR_Design

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I'm thinking of the bleeder screw itself and the 'needle valve' (ball) in that fitting, so to speak.

PS - you used the liquid and not the tape, right? I don't like using the tape on any fuel or hydraulic application, as it breaks off so easy, fwiw...

Here's a section of the internals, for reference (This is a russel, but I imagine most all are mechanically similar?):



EDIT - maybe the above is only for 'speed bleeders', as I cannot seem to find a pic of a regular bleeder and perhaps the tightening of the screw is what seals it on a regular bleeder. If that's the case and you're using oem screws, then disregard the above with reference to the internals not sealing...

TexVette

iTrader: (2)

Will it build and hold pressure if you just sit and pump the pedal without opening any of the bleeders. Have someone under there while you do that to visually see any leaks....soapy water might help.

If it were my car, I'd take that bleeder extension off, close the stock bleeder valve, then mightyvac from top. I've never removed the actual valves from the slave cylinder but I'd imagine you'd want to use liquid thread sealer.

07CTS-V

iTrader: (6)

I used liquid thread sealant. It was correct for the application. Also, there is no way to remove the extension without removing the transmission.

This is what I used. It's really expensive but works well.