PrelateBishop

I've done a fair amount of research on the topic, but I'm still left scratching my head. The majority of the posts I've read are either old, don't mention specific makes/models, or are focused on wiring. Here's what I think that I do know:

- I need a Line Output Converter (LOC) that will tap into the BOSE signal and make it useable for my needs. Unless I'm reading it wrong, the David Navone N-RHL2 seems like a popular option, but don't hesitate to correct me if I'm wrong. Well, I should say I need a LOC if the amplifier I purchase doesn't have a speaker level input.

- I need a free-air subwoofer since I want to use the same location as the stock BOSE sub. I've seen the Elemental Designs 11Kv.2 specifically mentioned a time or two as being good value for money. Also, the Infinity Kappa Series 100.9w also was suggested. Kicker got a mention as a brand, but I don't recall a specific model. Someone also stated they used the Alpine Marine SWR-M100. It appears that regardless of which model is chosen, there is a very good chance that the inside diameter of the factory mounting location will have to be widened to accommodate an aftermarket product.

- I need a monoblock/single channel amplifier that has a "high level" input (as it was explained to me, an input that will take a speaker level output and use it for the input so you don't need a line level converter). Then again, this makes me think that perhaps I don't need the LOC mentioned previously; can someone clarify this for me? But I digress... Someone specifically recommended the Boss CW1100M as an option.

All of that being said, I am looking for additional feedback; please make recommendations for makes/models of subs/amps. Ideally I'd like to buy the parts needed and then take them to my audio shop and say, "Here, I know this stuff will work...make it so."

My goal is simply to improve upon the bass response of the factory system without spending a truckload of money. Again, I'm not building an audio temple of awesomeness or looking to have bass that hits so hard that it feels like you've been donkey punched. It is just that IMHO, the bass response offered by the factory setup is truly disappointing.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

I personally ditched the factory garbage sub. I did a single Boston acoustic G5 12" sub in a small sealed enclosure. Sub has a peak RMS of 500 watts so I have a JL 500.1v2 monoblock amp on it. I used a line out converter and complete 4 gauge amp kit that included RCA's, etc. Sounds great on the factory screen. I have an iPod kit installed as well and I ran a bass **** to the front and mounted it in the ashtray for easy access. For 1 12, it bangs and doesn't take up a lot of space. Sounds great with factory components. I'll go big later but for now it's perfect. I'd do what I did and use a box instead of the factory location. U will be limited on options for subs doing it your way and it prob won't sound as good.

PrelateBishop

Do you mind commenting on how you secured the box in the trunk? On a previous vehicle I had a similar setup and the box would tumble around the trunk during spirited driving sessions. If I pursued this option, I would only want to do it if A.) the box could be securely fastened and B.) was easy to remove if I needed the trunk space.

4doorvetteLV

iTrader: (1)

Kicker Comps are also "free-air" if you're looking for a cheap sub option. All can be had on fleabay relatively cheap less than $80 total. An LOC is not needed if the amp u purchase has high level inputs. Just make sure it accepts the voltage range of the Bose outputs. Problem is, good multi-channel amps with this option were tough for me to find so I had to go with a LOC which I believe induces more noise :-( . Good luck!

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

I installed the system a few months ago and at the time, I wasn't sure if I wanted to get some sheet metal straps and screw it in behind the seat of just take the sub out and screw the box down directly to the trunk floor so I chose a temp option which is ugly as sin but has served it's purpose. Lol I used some small pieces of wood I had and screwed them in front of the box and beside it which basically work as steps to keep it from sliding. They have held it through spirited driving and hard turns just fine. No one sees it so I've left it that way so far but I'll eventually figure something else out. It's just easy this way cause if I need to remove it, just unhook it and lift it out. Really not a bad idea afterall but if I keep it this way, I'll get some carpet and wrap the wood pieces so it blends in and looks uniform.

UnsafeAtAnySpd

What I would look into is building a box to seal to the rear shelf and use the factory location for the sub.

NeverSatisfied02

iTrader: (12)

Someone else here had pics of a setup like that. Maybe they will chime in...

RocketSSled

In my '05 V, what I did to secure my Momo 12" sub box was to use a 1.5" aluminum 90degree angle drilled to fit the 2 trunk floor anchor bolts. I used wing nuts to secure the angle to allow for easy removal and install. I drilled 6 additional holes along the top of the aluminum angle large enough for carabiners to fit through the holes to secure other stuff in the trunk including the trunk net. I riveted my amp and capacitor to the bottom of the rear decklid - driver side. Overall, it was a pretty clean setup and never had an issue with the sub box or anything else in the trunk moving around - even after some spirited driving.
I used the subwoofer output to directly drive the amp and was very happy with the dramatic improvement in sound over the OEM setup.
I hope my description makes sense. Good luck.

joehernandez86

iTrader: (1)

I'm running a 10 inch JL audio 10w6v2 in s small sealed box mounted as close to the rear seat as possible on a JL 500/1 mounted to the side of the trunk liner. I tied the LOC into the factory sub wires and amp turn on wired to under seat fuse box. It sounds ok but I wish there was a decent aftermarket solution for the head unit.

DirtyDirk

RocketSSled do you have any pics of your set up?

ITSAV

iTrader: (1)

I mounted my sub in the top where stock sub was as well




you cant even see the sub at all, unless you crouch down at the back of the car, just standing there though you cant see it. I cant remember the exact model for the sub, but it was a pioneer "thin" sub, so it didn't hang down as low

itsslow98

iTrader: (18)

I would start off by upgrading the factory head unit. The BOSE amp really kciks down the base at high volume levels. Im goign with a much better aftermarket unit soon to take advantage of my Alpine 10" and Alpine amp.

wcryan

iTrader: (2)

The only thing I wish were a little louder were the speakers

ITSAV

iTrader: (1)

this for sure...when I put my sub in, and turned it up, gah the stock unit just made it sound horrible, thats one of the main reasons I upgraded to the one I have now

JD03Cobra

Nice!

LAYGO

iTrader: (10)

I stopped by the body shop & it looks like the previous owner had installed Inifinity Kappas in the doors! I was going to buy new speakers to upgrade, but looks like I don't need to! While the back window is out, I am going to replace the sub, add in the XM ipod kit.

RocketSSled

Sorry DirtyDirk, I thought I did have photos but cannot find them. What I can do is try and rig it up in my 2010 V and take a photo of that it you'd like. The layout between a 2005 and 2010 V are similar except that I don't have the 2 trunk floor anchor bolts in my 2010 V. As a result, I haven't transplanted my old setup into the new car.

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

This is my setup.
One 12" sub and amp.

Chris0nllyn

iTrader: (1)

Anyone getting trunk rattle having the sub back there?

Stone17

iTrader: (3)

It did but I turned it down. It still loud