Spring 2011 Modding Results
07-04-2011, 04:41 PM
#1
Spring 2011 Modding Results Well, summer is here, and after 6 weekends worth of hard work, I think I've graduated from newbie status (see the list at the end of this post). In summary, I took ~100 pounds off the car, boosted its RWHP / RWTQ by 40-50, lowered it's CG by almost 2 inches, and improved its overall driveability considerably (short shifter, new electronics, etc). Next year, I may move up to a Magnacharger and cam, or I may opt to put that money toward a 2012 CTS-V. We'll see. Right now, I'm utterly sick of modding. 
Anyway, random pictures are below. Still trying to find a good tint shop. Here's a preliminary dyno pull video, plus a bonus exhaust video. If I go back for another tune, I'll try to remember to bring a good camera (not just an iPod Touch), and record the final pull...not just the lame first one.
2006 LS2 CTS-V Baseline @ Jannetty Racing 2006 LS2 CTS-V - Lingenfelter CAI, OBX headers, Kooks cats, stock exhaust
For you Back to the Future fans, check out the new and improved Hover-V!
As I was prepping for the Eibach coilover kit installation, I noticed that at certain angles, it looked like my car was hovering. It made me laugh--so I snapped a picture. And now, random pics:
Weekend #1
1. Gutted GM exhaust
2. Replaced differential fluid with Royal Purple Max-Gear*
3. Hard-wired Beltronics STI Driver**
4. Installed driver's side CG Lock
*Fill bolt is EXTREMELY hard to break free. You may have to drop your exhaust to get your hands in there. Do NOT remove the drain plug until you can turn this bolt.
**Power can be derived from connector that snaps into the Onstar mirror. Radio Shack sells thin, needle-like probes that you can insert into the back of this connector to derive power without cutting and splicing wires.
Weekend #2
1. Wrapped and installed 1-7/8" OBX headers*
2. Cut GM catback to fit OBX headers**
3. Replaced upstream O2 sensors with Bosch O2 sensors***
4. Installed Lingenfelter/S&B/Volant hybrid CAI****
*All 1-7/8" headers will require you unhook the steering linkage--undo the bolts and push the steering wheel side toward the car to unhook it (it's spring loaded, and may require more force than you realize). You'll also have to put a dent in the side of the headers in order to get the steering linkage back. Measure twice--then put the headers on the ground, cover the spot with a thick towel to blunt the impact, and hit it a couple of times with a hammer.
**Don't freak out--you have to cut less than a foot of the catback off so that the headers + straight pipes (or high-flow cats) fit correctly. It's not hard if you have a Sawzall with a metal blade. Be conservative with your cuts so that you don't ruin your catback.
***My O2 sensors wouldn't reach all the way down to where they needed to go on the headers. Bought a Bosch kit from Auto Zone and everything worked fine. Cost $130 though. I hate unexpected expenses like that.
****The Volant intake tube doesn't have a PCV valve, so I made one by cutting a 1/2" hole in the side of the tube, and cementing a 90-degree brass elbow from Home Depot (check the Plumbing aisle) in it. Jannetty Racing took it one step further by deleting the OEM tube and replacing it with a hose.
Weekend #3
1. Installed Eibach coilover conversion kit*
2. Replaced brake lights with 13W SMD LEDs
3. Installed PLX OBD2 wi-fi transmitter**
4. Removed spare tire tub and associated assembly
5. Replaced engine cover with LS2 fuel rail covers***
*Unless you want your car lower than mine, you don't need the MM spacer kit.
**Turns out that the OBD2 port is always on, so you don't want to leave something that requires a considerable amount of power (like this wi-fi transmitter) plugged in.
***The driver's side cover will have to be cut to fit the CTS-V.
Weekend #4
1. Began installation of:
*The original flywheel bolts are torqued-to-yield, meaning that you cannot re-use them when you install your new flywheel. Be sure to order new ones (either OEM ones from GMPartsDirect or ARP bolts).
**I'd recommend getting the LS7 slave instead of the spacer. The spacer only saves you $30-40 and it results in a clutch that engages very low to the floor. I'll probably replace this spacer and the original LS2 slave with a LS7 slave next year.
Weekend #5
1. Finished Weekend #4 installation.
2. Installed NGK TR5IX spark plugs and MSD wires*
3. Flushed transmission, clutch, engine, brake, and power steering fluid.
*According to Ted Jannetty, you should stick with the stock plugs and stock gap. Apparently, he's had a ton of trouble with NGK plugs (especially the TR6 series). Apparently, all of his 700-900 RWHP cars are running OEM plugs with stock gaps.
Weekend #6
1. Replaced OBX straight pipes with Kooks high-flow cats (fixed misfire issue)
2. Installed Hawk HP+ brake pads
3. Took car to Jannetty Racing for tuning.
Anyway, random pictures are below. Still trying to find a good tint shop. Here's a preliminary dyno pull video, plus a bonus exhaust video. If I go back for another tune, I'll try to remember to bring a good camera (not just an iPod Touch), and record the final pull...not just the lame first one.
2006 LS2 CTS-V Baseline @ Jannetty Racing 2006 LS2 CTS-V - Lingenfelter CAI, OBX headers, Kooks cats, stock exhaustFor you Back to the Future fans, check out the new and improved Hover-V!
As I was prepping for the Eibach coilover kit installation, I noticed that at certain angles, it looked like my car was hovering. It made me laugh--so I snapped a picture. And now, random pics:
Weekend #1
1. Gutted GM exhaust
2. Replaced differential fluid with Royal Purple Max-Gear*
3. Hard-wired Beltronics STI Driver**
4. Installed driver's side CG Lock
*Fill bolt is EXTREMELY hard to break free. You may have to drop your exhaust to get your hands in there. Do NOT remove the drain plug until you can turn this bolt.
**Power can be derived from connector that snaps into the Onstar mirror. Radio Shack sells thin, needle-like probes that you can insert into the back of this connector to derive power without cutting and splicing wires.
Weekend #2
1. Wrapped and installed 1-7/8" OBX headers*
2. Cut GM catback to fit OBX headers**
3. Replaced upstream O2 sensors with Bosch O2 sensors***
4. Installed Lingenfelter/S&B/Volant hybrid CAI****
*All 1-7/8" headers will require you unhook the steering linkage--undo the bolts and push the steering wheel side toward the car to unhook it (it's spring loaded, and may require more force than you realize). You'll also have to put a dent in the side of the headers in order to get the steering linkage back. Measure twice--then put the headers on the ground, cover the spot with a thick towel to blunt the impact, and hit it a couple of times with a hammer.
**Don't freak out--you have to cut less than a foot of the catback off so that the headers + straight pipes (or high-flow cats) fit correctly. It's not hard if you have a Sawzall with a metal blade. Be conservative with your cuts so that you don't ruin your catback.
***My O2 sensors wouldn't reach all the way down to where they needed to go on the headers. Bought a Bosch kit from Auto Zone and everything worked fine. Cost $130 though. I hate unexpected expenses like that.
****The Volant intake tube doesn't have a PCV valve, so I made one by cutting a 1/2" hole in the side of the tube, and cementing a 90-degree brass elbow from Home Depot (check the Plumbing aisle) in it. Jannetty Racing took it one step further by deleting the OEM tube and replacing it with a hose.
Weekend #3
1. Installed Eibach coilover conversion kit*
2. Replaced brake lights with 13W SMD LEDs
3. Installed PLX OBD2 wi-fi transmitter**
4. Removed spare tire tub and associated assembly
5. Replaced engine cover with LS2 fuel rail covers***
*Unless you want your car lower than mine, you don't need the MM spacer kit.
**Turns out that the OBD2 port is always on, so you don't want to leave something that requires a considerable amount of power (like this wi-fi transmitter) plugged in.
***The driver's side cover will have to be cut to fit the CTS-V.
Weekend #4
1. Began installation of:
- GM LS7 clutch kit
- F1 Racing LS7 flywheel*
- Katech spacer**
- 18" remote bleeder line
- Katech v2 short shifter
- UUC bushings
- 2011 GM CTS-V shifter ****
*The original flywheel bolts are torqued-to-yield, meaning that you cannot re-use them when you install your new flywheel. Be sure to order new ones (either OEM ones from GMPartsDirect or ARP bolts).
**I'd recommend getting the LS7 slave instead of the spacer. The spacer only saves you $30-40 and it results in a clutch that engages very low to the floor. I'll probably replace this spacer and the original LS2 slave with a LS7 slave next year.
Weekend #5
1. Finished Weekend #4 installation.
2. Installed NGK TR5IX spark plugs and MSD wires*
3. Flushed transmission, clutch, engine, brake, and power steering fluid.
*According to Ted Jannetty, you should stick with the stock plugs and stock gap. Apparently, he's had a ton of trouble with NGK plugs (especially the TR6 series). Apparently, all of his 700-900 RWHP cars are running OEM plugs with stock gaps.
Weekend #6
1. Replaced OBX straight pipes with Kooks high-flow cats (fixed misfire issue)
2. Installed Hawk HP+ brake pads
3. Took car to Jannetty Racing for tuning.
07-04-2011, 07:02 PM
#4
Install and also the flaws with Katech shifter...
Install Here
07-04-2011, 07:33 PM
#7
No complaints or problems with the Katech (purchased @ Lingenfelter) v2 shifter. It's quiet and durable.
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07-04-2011, 07:45 PM
#9
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***My O2 sensors wouldn't reach all the way down to where they needed to go on the headers. Bought a Bosch kit from Auto Zone and everything worked fine. Cost $130 though. I hate unexpected expenses like that.
07-04-2011, 08:53 PM
#10
True. And good point. The only problem was, I didn't know ahead of time (despite doing a considerable amount of research), and getting those extensions would've taken days or weeks. So I paid the price to fix the issue right then and there.
07-06-2011, 10:53 PM
#11
TECH Enthusiast
*According to Ted Jannetty, you should stick with the stock plugs and stock gap. Apparently, he's had a ton of trouble with NGK plugs (especially the TR6 series). Apparently, all of his 700-900 RWHP cars are running OEM plugs with stock gaps.
Weekend #6
1. Replaced OBX straight pipes with Kooks high-flow cats (fixed misfire issue)
2. Installed Hawk HP+ brake pads
3. Took car to Jannetty Racing for tuning.
Weekend #6
1. Replaced OBX straight pipes with Kooks high-flow cats (fixed misfire issue)
2. Installed Hawk HP+ brake pads
3. Took car to Jannetty Racing for tuning.
NGK plugs are good plugs. There's no reason to knock them. They've been proven time and time again in many different applications. N/A and boosted. I don't care who the tuner or shop is or what they say about them.
Still have no idea how replacing a straight pipe with a high-flow cat will fix a misfire issue. That makes no sense at all.
If anyone thinks I'm being a hardass or a dick, try posting this kind of tripe on MiataTurbo.net ...
If you decide to do the magnacharger or cam, I sure hope you drop it off at a shop next time after reading your posts related to your last round of mods...
Other than that, the car looks decent :shrug:
-meaty
Last edited by meatyCTS-V; 07-07-2011 at 09:38 PM.
07-06-2011, 11:08 PM
#12
^^^ Wrong, there are plenty of heads/cam LS1's running TR6 plugs just fine. Is a TR6 more of an FI plug.... yes, but with a highly modded lsx TR6 plugs show no negative effects.
For instance I ran TR6s on my SS for two years even though I only sprayed the car once a month or so and it didnt chaneg a thing.
I also run TR6 in my V right now and spray a bottle every couple of months and it hasnt had any effect on performance. I run the TR6s gapped at .032.
For instance I ran TR6s on my SS for two years even though I only sprayed the car once a month or so and it didnt chaneg a thing.
I also run TR6 in my V right now and spray a bottle every couple of months and it hasnt had any effect on performance. I run the TR6s gapped at .032.
07-07-2011, 09:46 PM
#13
TECH Enthusiast
^^^ Wrong, there are plenty of heads/cam LS1's running TR6 plugs just fine. Is a TR6 more of an FI plug.... yes, but with a highly modded lsx TR6 plugs show no negative effects.
For instance I ran TR6s on my SS for two years even though I only sprayed the car once a month or so and it didnt chaneg a thing.
I also run TR6 in my V right now and spray a bottle every couple of months and it hasnt had any effect on performance. I run the TR6s gapped at .032.
For instance I ran TR6s on my SS for two years even though I only sprayed the car once a month or so and it didnt chaneg a thing.
I also run TR6 in my V right now and spray a bottle every couple of months and it hasnt had any effect on performance. I run the TR6s gapped at .032.
Would I run a colder plug with a lot of mods? Most likely.
I run a colder range plug than stock in my boosted miata *shrug* Hell, when I change the plugs, needed or not, I sometimes end up using them in my lawn mower
-meaty
07-26-2011, 05:50 PM
#15
Yes, you have to cut about a foot (hard to estimate--it's curved) off of the stock exhaust. Try using a sawzall with a metal cutting blade (the higher the tooth count, the better)--if you're careful, you can do it from under the car. Be conservative--if you cut too much off, you won't be able to fit the cats or straight pipes (whichever you have) over the end of your OEM exhaust.
