Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Are these stock?

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Old 12-13-2011, 06:15 PM
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Default Are these stock?

Can you tell if these are stock, just by looking at them?

The person who installed my cam said he put new valve springs in, but I wanted to double check while I had it apart for the maggie install

I hope I dont get really pissed off after I get some answers; haha


Old 12-13-2011, 06:32 PM
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Look like stock yellow springs to me. Of course I'm no spert.
Old 12-13-2011, 06:42 PM
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ouch man, if you were lied to.
Old 12-13-2011, 06:45 PM
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those look like single beehive ls3 springs. whats the lift on your cam? if its not crazy, those single beehive springs will work.
but if you are installing a maggie, for insurance and durability i would install dual valve springs.
Old 12-13-2011, 07:30 PM
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If he replaced them, he installed the stock LS6 springs again. If he put a cam in there, I hope it isn't over .550" lift with a Maggie or you are asking for trouble.
Old 12-13-2011, 07:54 PM
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DMM--great timing with that comment.

I was hoping to install a cam and a MP112 in my CTS-V (2006 LS2) this spring, and the kit that I was looking at was the G5X3, which you can see right here.

Obviously, I'm new at this, but I wasn't planning on running straight out and buying all of this stuff without doing a whole bunch more research (as you'd expect from someone getting his M.S. in electrical engineering). Can you shed some more light on why a lot of lift + maggie = bad, or point me in the right direction to understand this better?
Old 12-13-2011, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
DMM--great timing with that comment.

I was hoping to install a cam and a MP112 in my CTS-V (2006 LS2) this spring, and the kit that I was looking at was the G5X3, which you can see right here.

Obviously, I'm new at this, but I wasn't planning on running straight out and buying all of this stuff without doing a whole bunch more research (as you'd expect from someone getting his M.S. in electrical engineering). Can you shed some more light on why a lot of lift + maggie = bad, or point me in the right direction to understand this better?
A lot of lift is not necessarily bad with a forced induction (FI) motor, but it needs to be taken into account that boost may act upon the back of the intake valve to hold it open if the valve springs are at or near their limits, changing valve timing. Grand Nationals picked up 30 hp back in the day just by swapping small block springs for this reason.

The factory Yellow "LS6" springs are rated to .560" lift I believe (or somewhere near there) so if you add boost to the .551" lift of the LS6 cam you are actually cutting it pretty close...for me anyhow.

I think "Raven154" on here runs the g5x3, so you may want to speak with him about it. For street cars, the general rule is to maintain a moderate lift and let the boost do the work with a duration bias towards the exhaust...something on order of the G5 cam (since you are looking at LG). It would be much easier to tune and a much better driver in exchange for a few ponies...but i'm getting old (35) and like my Caddy to ride like a Caddy now, so not everyone would like my advice, lol.

Best of luck on your build and getting your EE!

Edit: If you want some additional feedback, or help making a decision...I would copy your post into the GEN III section. LOTS of good feedback there, Predator Z (Mark) is very knowledgeable in this area and is usually willing to help if you listen to him and don't try to argue, lol.

Last edited by DMM; 12-13-2011 at 08:38 PM.
Old 12-13-2011, 09:13 PM
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Wouldn't the springs in the kit (Comp 921 Dual Valve Spring) help compensate for that, though?

Edit: Went out, did more research, came back. What about the GT2-3 Lingenfelter kit as a blower cam for the MP112?

Bonus: it's 1/4 the price of the G5X3, assuming that I don't have to buy anything else.

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-13-2011 at 09:28 PM.
Old 12-13-2011, 09:24 PM
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you just need a good dual spring, look at the prc line thought texas speed.
Old 12-13-2011, 09:34 PM
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They are definetly stock springs, whether they are ls6 or ls3 i cant say for sure. No one makes aftermarket yellow springs that I have ever seen. Throw some dual springs with titanium retainers in there.
Old 12-13-2011, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzyLog1c
Wouldn't the springs in the kit (Comp 921 Dual Valve Spring) help compensate for that, though?

Edit: Went out, did more research, came back. What about the GT2-3 Lingenfelter kit as a blower cam for the MP112?

Bonus: it's 1/4 the price of the G5X3, assuming that I don't have to buy anything else.
All you need is a good valve spring rated higher then the cam that you intend to run..if you have a .585" lift cam, get a .625" spring....if you have a .600" lift cam, get a .650" spring...that's really all you need to do for boost on the safe side....with the correct length hardened push rods of course.

The GT2-3 cam is 1/4 the price of the G5X3 b/c it is almost the same damn cam as the factory 02-04 Z06 cam that comes stock in our cars. You will not see any benefit to installing that cam at all. None.

There are a lot of variables that go into cam selection, and I can see you are beginning to weigh them now. What are your goals? Daily driver or max effort ultimate bad ***? Truth is, the 112 will max out before 500 whp so getting a donkey dick cam will not really provide you any benefit over something more moderate. You can usually expect around 425 whp with a Maggie and headers, a moderate cam might get you another 25-30 whp, and a donkey dick might get you 40-50. You have to decide what you want and are willing to live with.

Sorry OP for the hijack....
Old 12-14-2011, 12:53 AM
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I got my answer in the first response, lol. I was busy anyways making molotov cocktails. It's all good. bahahahahaha
Old 12-14-2011, 06:24 AM
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DMM, I've only got 21k on my CTS-V and I want to keep it past 100k. When all is said and done, I don't want to lose more than 2 or 3 mpg, and I don't want to blow up the engine.

This is a daily driver, but I'm willing to slightly push the definition of that (for example, I just ordered 700/750 springs to go with my GC kit, LC855 wheels, and I'm thinking about replacing the swaybars).

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 12-14-2011 at 06:29 AM.
Old 12-14-2011, 08:27 AM
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Im thinking stock too...
Old 12-14-2011, 08:55 AM
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if you are switching to dual valve springs on a stock cam/low lift cam, make sure you don't get one with too high seat pressure. i went with the CRANE 144832-16, 112lbs seat pressure.

Last edited by Onefast V; 12-14-2011 at 09:25 AM.
Old 12-14-2011, 11:10 AM
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my lift is only .566 .568
Old 12-14-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
my lift is only .566 .568
Get new springs. I would strongly recommend duals...stay away from the COMP 918's, they have a history of coming apart and destroying motors.
Old 12-14-2011, 04:39 PM
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do shops charge a boatload to put springs in? I'm gonna have the shop that did all my fix work and work after this other guy put them in. I think they are actually a vendor on here. CMS
Old 12-14-2011, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
do shops charge a boatload to put springs in? I'm gonna have the shop that did all my fix work and work after this other guy put them in. I think they are actually a vendor on here. CMS
I got my springs, ti retainers and new p-rods installed for about $450 in norcal.
Old 12-14-2011, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by wcryan
do shops charge a boatload to put springs in? I'm gonna have the shop that did all my fix work and work after this other guy put them in. I think they are actually a vendor on here. CMS
Do it yourself. There is a guy on here that sells a tool for $40~. It will take you a while but its not hard to do. Just make sure you have the piston at TDC and take your time.


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