B&M shifter
#123
11 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't know that i would call the home depot bushings a "perfect fit" They are a great start but you need to trim the length of the smaller ID down, and sand the outside face to make them fit. I believe i also had to open up the ID a little to make the stock metal sleeve fit. If you have a dremel tool you can make most of the modifications, but realize you will have to cut and sand to fit. (Be careful when fitting as well, the outside lip of the transmission is just a cast aluminum piece that is relatively thin, there should not be any forcing it in (hence a good reason to have some spare spacers in-case you sand too far and it gets sloppy again)
Don't get me wrong, the modification is worth while, and not complicated, but i want you to know they don't just drop right in.
I doubt you can do it with the trans in the car, it would be a very tight fit. It may be possible, but i am not sure it would be a fun experience.
Don't get me wrong, the modification is worth while, and not complicated, but i want you to know they don't just drop right in.
I doubt you can do it with the trans in the car, it would be a very tight fit. It may be possible, but i am not sure it would be a fun experience.
#124
11 Second Club
iTrader: (19)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Your shifter is super tight. I did all of the same mods you did and I still have a small amount of play but it's 100X better.
Replacing these bushings was one of the best things I've done to my V. I had a shop put them in while they were swapping the clutch and they didn't complain too much about getting the pvc ones to fit. I pre-cut them to length for them though. Everyone should be doing this.
#125
#128
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This thread is amazing. Combining everyone's contributions including Cadzilla's in-depth bushing research & photos along with 07CTS-V's (PISNUOFF) shifter & brass linkage bushings has lead to unbelievable results. I still can't believe I'm driving the same car.
Last edited by KamaSutra; 02-12-2013 at 11:06 PM.
#129
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Had the trans out last weekend. The JB weld had maintained it's integrity and 'fill' of the void, but the bond seemed to have let go around the outer edge. It was still tight clockwise/counterclockwise, but laterally there was a bit of play...so I just took it to an exhaust shop and paid them $10 to tap it 3 or 4 times. It's pretty solid now.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![](http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/shiftweld_zps67eab289.jpg)
#131
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Had the trans out last weekend. The JB weld had maintained it's integrity and 'fill' of the void, but the bond seemed to have let go around the outer edge. It was still tight clockwise/counterclockwise, but laterally there was a bit of play...so I just took it to an exhaust shop and paid them $10 to tap it 3 or 4 times. It's pretty solid now.![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![](http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/shiftweld_zps67eab289.jpg)
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
![](http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/shiftweld_zps67eab289.jpg)
#134
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i cropped mine down to the "notch" and it seemed perfect. that was a long time ago but if i recall it was about 3/4 inch.
more recently i cropped off another 1/2 in or so, and it became a bit too tough for my liking. not unbearable, just over the threshold of what i considered perfect. i now have the **** situated a bit higher up to compensate.
i have a gto **** too which is heavier. any heavier **** makes a big difference vs stock esp with short shifters
more recently i cropped off another 1/2 in or so, and it became a bit too tough for my liking. not unbearable, just over the threshold of what i considered perfect. i now have the **** situated a bit higher up to compensate.
i have a gto **** too which is heavier. any heavier **** makes a big difference vs stock esp with short shifters
#135
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i would like to get a nice uuc shifter those things are supposed to be nice and heavy, one step at a time though i get out of school may 10th then im dropping the trans and doing those mods and ill probably cut an inch off .
#136
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anyone have any trouble getting the isolator cup bushing to fit over the shift selector ball end? My car is up on a lift and the trans is out of the car late on a sunday night and the mechanic says it doesn't appear to fit. The original Cadzilla install post mentioned a few taps from a hammer. Anyone else have to use force like that?
![](http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_7184.jpg)
#137
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Anyone have any trouble getting the isolator cup bushing to fit over the shift selector ball end? My car is up on a lift and the trans is out of the car late on a sunday night and the mechanic says it doesn't appear to fit. The original Cadzilla install post mentioned a few taps from a hammer. Anyone else have to use force like that?
[IMG]http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_7184
[IMG]http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_7184
I never had problem with my brass isolator cup fitting inside shifter.
I did cut the edges to fit inside the transmission.
![](https://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y332/memphisctsv/IMG_7108.jpg)
#140
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm starting to think that as well as nothing has loosened up with repeated movement. After having all shifter related bushings changed and the pivot pin welded to the selector shaft, the only two causes that I can see would be binding caused by the tack welded pivot or an overly tight pivot bolt at the bottom of the shifter. I don't recall anyone else who welded the pivot report back with travel issues. The shift stalk moves pretty smoothly in forward and reverse travel, but I feel like it may be requiring more force than before. I guess I'll try and get under the car tonight and back the nut off the pivot bolt half a turn.