New CTS V owner with rear suspension question
 

I just last night picked up a 2005 CTS V. There is a clunking noise coming from the rear like the drive line loads and unloads with every shift. Is there a fix?

My buddy says he's seen some CTS V's at road Atlanta with some kind of rear-end stabilisation kit on them. Where can I find such a kit?

Thanks

that is the infamous cts-v cluck you're hearing. It's partly caused by a worn rear diff mount bushing. Replacing with a new one will only fix the clunk for a short period of time. Aftermarket bushing is better. Try creative steel for that.

Ding Ding Ding...winner winner, chicken dinner.

There will still be some weird noises that will come out the ass end of the car...most are "fairly normal". If you start here really loud whines, then you will have a problem. Which that will be your rear end going out. Start looking into some of the rear end/wheel hop band aids (i.e. axles, CVs, braces, and supports) just to be on the safe side.

You'll need the following:

https://creative-steel.com/store/ind...ct_detail&p=31
https://creative-steel.com/store/ind...ct_detail&p=48
and this if you're doing it yourself:
https://creative-steel.com/store/ind...ct_detail&p=95

Budracing,

Thanks for the links.

Those parts will stop the dreaded cla-clunk...or just taming it down would be good if that's all they do. It's so hard to drive slowly and control that sound.

I've been driving standard shift cars for over fifty years and it's all I can do to control the clunk. It's a damn shame that GM Cadillac Motor Division would engineer such a poor design and then offer no solution.

Thanks again, Bert

They will fix part of the problem, the oe dual mass flywheel will also add to the clunk if it's shot.

I had that same problem when I bought my V. Creative steel bushing fixed it.

Thanks for the tips and info guys I appreciate it.

I sure hope it cures it without having to do the clutch.

Next on my list of things would be the "skip shift" fix. I'm not too crazy about going from first to fourth when trying to drive slowly, deliberately. I just wonder what the engineers were thinking...it's aggravating to me.

Its always been said that its for fuel economy. In reality, skip shift does nothing so I'd guess its on paper. I bought an eliminator for my Z but made my own for the V. There's a write up on how to make your own with parts from Autozone/O'Reilly's/etc. Cost is about $8.

With regard to the skip shift feature, that's something that can be tuned out if you plan on having the car tuned in the near future. If you don't have tuning plans the above is your best option.

Buy the CAGS eliminator off of ebay, it was $10 and it uses the same GM weatherpak connectors as everything else.

Thanks again guys for the tips.


Ordered both the bushing and the other dog leg looking urethane piece they recommended at Creative Steel. I'll call Monday to rent the tool.

I found the skip shift cure DIY instructions online and I'm heading to the Zone and Radio Shack today.

None of the automotive chain stores have the connector after driving several places. So I ordered one from ebay.

What I should have done from the start.

or just have your tuner turn the cags off and you dont have to install anything. Guys I have a similar q. I get the majority of my clunk at startup when i am granny shifting and it sounds like its coming from the front not the rear. Engine mount or flywheel???your thouhts??? My buddy was looking at the block as I gear revved it and said it seems like it is stable so I'm thinking its the flywheel especially since it tames down a bit after the car is running for a while. Still audible during granny shifting at 2k rpm but not nearly as audible with the same shifting as when the car first starts up

I want to stay stock as possible. It already has a K&N cold air induction. I'd like to find the original air filter system just to have in case I want to go completely stock. If I can find one complete and cheap enough.

Had the same thing with mine, the stock dual mass flywheel is spring loaded. When those springs lose their elasticity you will have alot of lower rpm clunking. Single mass flywheel is the way to go, I love my LS9X clutch/flywheel combo from katech. The V has much better throttle response when you cut out 30lbs of flywheel, twin disc makes rev matching and downshifting effortless. If you're running around on motor mounts that are shot, you should be able to tell when you shut the engine down if you have a diesel like shutdown.

to be honest man you dont lose out on anything by getting the car tuned. Better performance and mileage since its tuned perfectly based on graphs. Only thing you have to lose is the few hundred bucks it will cost.

As far as my issue I do think its the flywheel. In fact that fkr is so loud in low gears w granny shifting that I've noticed that people turn around outside in my neighbourhood when I pass by and clunk. And not only can i hear it I can feel it. I still havent replaced my diff bushing but that sucker sounds like its coming from under the front passengers feet rather then the rear making me think its not the dif bushing.

This X2...after my tune, I gained more power (modded) and better fuel economy. On long highway runs I have made in the past, I was getting 25-27 mpg at 65-75 mph.

That's most likely the Kars Kit. Not readily available now, but, considering that you said you wanted to stay as stock as possible, I'd assume that won't be something you'd be looking at anyway.

I have the complete stock intake set up. PM me if you want it.

Bertbart the kars III kit is now pretty rare to find. If thats what you really wan't PM cobra98 he's got one FS. Also since then there are many anti hop kits such as gforce and BMR. The Kars III kit also requires some welding just a heads up. I just sold my BMR kit to swap in the gforce axles here in the next month or so. This is the way to go imo since the stockers are problematic and break on people anyway. Kill two birds w one stone.