SSmokd U

So I just bought Pacesetter ceramic LT's with extensions, CS motor mounts & have a new (used) driveshaft & diff block to put in on Saturday. Of course I am doing plugs as well. This is being done on jack stands by a couple of fairly competent guys (myself included lol). Anyone think it can all be done within a roughly 36-hr time frame?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Yes, but you'll have to work like a dog. So long as you have the tools to get the spark plugs, O2 sensors, and headers off in a couple of hours, you should be fine. Here's a seat-of-the-pants brain dump:

1. Your old O2 sensors will be too short to reach the new headers. You'll need sensor extensions or new sensors with longer harnesses. You'll also need a long 7/8" box/gear wrench to remove the old sensors. Make sure it's very long--otherwise you won't be able to generate enough torque to loosen it.

2. All 1-7/8" headers will require you unhook the steering linkage--undo the bolts and push the steering wheel side toward the car to unhook it (it's spring loaded, and may require more force than you realize). You'll also have to put a dent in the side of the headers in order to get the steering linkage back. Measure twice--then put the headers on the ground, cover the spot with a thick towel to blunt the impact, and hit it a couple of times with a hammer.

3. Buy extra gloves and SEVERAL bottles of Liquid Wrench to help unstick bolts. It'll make your life infinitely easier.

4. If you haven't done it before, change your differential fluid. You won't believe how good the car feels afterwards. Oh, and by the way, if you haven't done it yet, taking that fill bolt off is a $#@%ing [censored]. If it hasn't been broken free, you'll almost certainly need to remove the exhaust to give yourself enough room to put sufficient torque on it. I had to lay on my back, jam my feet in the jacks, and pull with both hands to free it. Do NOT remove the drain plug until you can turn this bolt.

odthetruth

iTrader: (4)

Motor mounts take about 4 hours, headers about 2-3 hours. I haven't done the driveshaft on these cars, so idk.

I think within 36 hours, you should be able to get most if not all of this done, assuming the driveshaft isn't a tremendously huge job.

You got a lift, or putting it on jack stands? That makes a pretty big difference IMO.

SSmokd U

Jack stands. I will also have use of air tools. I have changed the diff fluid before so that wont be a problem but the exhaust will all be off anyway to make room for the driveshaft swap. However, I had not thought about the O2's so I'm gonna have to order them today & hope the wife doesn't kill me. So far I think I've spent all of my bonus money and then some lol!

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

I have been where you are, and will be tearing mine down again tomorrow to do the G-Force 9". Exhaust drop is easy, use a little WD40 on the rubber hangers at the mufflers and they will come right off. Be sure to have the front of the exhaust unbolted already.

The headers are not so bad, but I only did Kooks 1 3/4. Cutting the exhaust was easy, there is a bend mark that is exactly where you will have to cut the cat back. You will probably break atleast one of the wires, so might not hurt to have a set or a few new ones ready. They are a pain to get off, and If I had to do it over knowing I was putting new plugs in, I would have just taken the coils off in the bracket, left the wires on the plugs and taken the manifold out then taken the wires off, I know it sounds backwards, but with less fenagling than it takes to get the wires off, it should be faster, especially with help to hold the manifolds and untangle the wires. Clear as mud?

As for the mounts, they were relatively quick as well, especially since you will have the headers out of the way anyways. One bolt on the bottom, one from the top for the bottom mount in the front, and 4 bolts on the driver side, 3 on pass side bolting mount to block. Long extension and swivel makes short work of all of this. I found it helpful to remove the starter to gey to the back bolt on pass side faster. Once the mount assembly is out, it just takes two nuts coming off the mount. Oh and hold the mounts upright over a drain pan, they are probably going to leak. THe mounts can only go in one way. I reused my stock heatshield along with the shield Max provides, the stock shield wont fit perfect, will likely need some persuasion and proper aligning to get betweent eh munt itself and top bracket, make sure it dosent pinch between the two.

I would suggest new OEM or reusing your exhaust gaskets, the MLS GM gaskets are the best I have ever used.

As far as the driveshaft, be careful when turning it over to install the 6 bolts through the rear CV to the differential, you can (I did) cut the CV grease boot on the steel collar of the forward CV housing. Use a second guy to hold it up, or put it on the trans first and put in the carrier bearing bolts loosely and see if it will go in that way, it might, I dont know cuz once i cut my boot I pulled it back out and ordered a 2 piece driveshaft. Id say with the exhaust out of the way this can be done in 20 minutes, probably less with more than one person, even on the ground (sliding out for tools takes more time than someone handing them to you)

As far as timeline, I would say 3 competent guys can get it done in one day. If it werent for wiating for new parts or re-machined axles, I would have been done with alot more than this by myself in two days, on jackstands. I do have a large compressor, airtools and alot of special wrenches, extensions sockets etc, along with 7+ yrs turning wrenches.

Good Luck, PM me if you got any quesitons.

SSmokd U

Thanks man! Have a question: are the o2 extensions for our cars the same as on an LS1 Camaro? Found some from Pacesetter but it just says for LS1 long tubes. Connections look the same but wanna make sure.

garrettg

iTrader: (1)

Notes from recent install:
1 7/8 kooks- didn't need o2 extensions and also didn't need to dent any pipes to clear the steering shaft. The forward o2 sensors connections needed to be relocated by pulling a plastic wire plug from behind the engine. These can be released in this spot as well if you prefer to transfer them after the stock headers are removed from the car. I did break some plug wires as well and this is the most time consuming and frustrating part of the tear down.

SSmokd U

So will I need extensions on Pacesetters? Their website says they are made to fit all stock sensors in stock locations.

SSmokd U

Went ahead & ordered the extensions from Maryland Speed a min ago. Hopefully now I should have everything needed for the install.

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

Do you have the catted mid sections or offraod catless pipes?
I put kooks hi flo cats in and the rear 2 sensors hooked right back up.

The front will have to have some plastic removed from the center of the plug. I will be back under mine tomorrow, and can send pics, will post if I can ever figure out how to. And yes you will probably need the extensions, which is why the connectors require slight material removal, the ones I got from Kooks looked OE but there are slots and holes in the middle of the connector that dont match up.
Unless the pace setters move the O2 bung way up the pipe (where they would likely only read one cylinder, in which case you might have check engine light fun) you are going to need them. My pass side reached, but was tight, and driver side was about 3" short with out the extension.

wheres an online etcha sketch when you need it.

kl2onik

iTrader: (3)

Bro you just wasted your money you dont need extensions for the o2 sensors I have the pacesetters. Since they have offroad pipes the second set/rear o2 sensors remain unplugged. You only can plug in the fronts and they reach just fine. Hope you can still cancel your order

slowlaneblues06

iTrader: (2)

Where is the O2 bung on the pace setter headers? Does the wiring harness have to be undone a bit to reach? Kooks moves it down just far enough to make the extension necessary only on the driver side.

SSmokd U

Hmmm, well someone else to me I had to have them & my friend with a GTO said he had to have them with his pacesetters. I believe they already shipped them (btw, WOW thats fast!) so I may just hang on to them till I get everything done. If I don't need them I think I can return them for credit. Surely they sell something else I may need

SSmokd U

ok guys, quick update. The cats were a bitch until we figured out the manifold would come out without taking the cats off first lol. Got everything out including the SHOT factory motor mounts. They were bad, REAL BAD! So I assembled the new CS mounts, got them loosely bolted back to the block and started bolting the bottoms up. The passenger side dowel slid right into the subframe but the drivers side is a good 1/8 inch or better off. We have tried raising and lowering the motor as well as the subframe. Even loosened the lower bracket of the mount so that it could be clocked a bit but it will not line up. Any ideas or tricks to this? Trying to get this done tonight.

veee8

iTrader: (40)

Both sides should be left loose until you get them down on the dowels. Then tighten everything up.
Creative steel has a video on the install on their website.

SSmokd U

So even though I have the passenger side that slid right in, I should keep it all loose? I have watched the video.

**EDIT - I watched the video again and now see where I went wrong. I had the passenger side bottom bracket tight so when it went in we tightened the subframe on that side. I am gonna loosen them up and try again. I can't wait to get this thing done.

SSmokd U

Also when we started I decided to swap the driveshaft first. I have experienced the clunk since I've owned the car and even after a CS diff bushing it was present. OneMeanZ asked why we were swapping it so I pushed up on the cv joint at the rear. To his & my surprise the entire diff moved. A lot! It was as if I had not tightened the bolts in the carrier or the one thru the bushing. I can't understand how they loosened up but I am sure without a doubt that's where all of my clunk is. I was so worried it was in the diff. We will button all that up after the headers. Should those bolts have loctite on them?

NOLAG05

Did you take pics of the install? I picked up some pacesetter 1 7/8's last friday. Did you wrap them or not?

NIKDSC5

iTrader: (10)

Am I missing something? or does pacesetter actually make am 1 7/8 header now? Last I knew they are all 1 3/4. I know I was confused at first because I saw them on line advertised as 1.75 which due to my awesome burnt out brain (college) I interpretted as 1 7/8" headers but 1.75= 1 3/4. So unless pacesetter has changed very recently i believe you have 1 3/4 headers bud.

SSmokd U

Sorry, NOLAG05, I did not take any pics. We had some trouble getting the driver's side motor mount in so today we were just trying to get it done. In all honesty, if all you are doing is swapping in headers then its a piece of cake. I didn't wrap them. Installing the pacesetters was the easiest thing we did all weekend.