V1 Header Install Checklist
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V1 Header Install Checklist
Not my first set of headers, but I get all paranoid about forgetting something. Install day is a week away, and I want to be sure I've got everything I need.
KOOKS 1 3/4" Coated Headers
OEM Manifold Gaskets
Thermo-Tec Sleeves
KOOKS High-Flow Cats
Anti-seize
PB Blaster
EDIT:
Spark Plugs ✓
Wires ✓
Motor Mounts ✓
Should I worry about replacing bolts/studs with OEM or ARP?
I have tools too. So, I've got that covered.
KOOKS 1 3/4" Coated Headers
OEM Manifold Gaskets
Thermo-Tec Sleeves
KOOKS High-Flow Cats
Anti-seize
PB Blaster
EDIT:
Spark Plugs ✓
Wires ✓
Motor Mounts ✓
Should I worry about replacing bolts/studs with OEM or ARP?
I have tools too. So, I've got that covered.
Last edited by dudesweet; 04-29-2012 at 02:37 PM.
#3
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Kooks should come with bolts. You will need a saw to cut the stock pipes to make room for the cats. Plug wires also good idea as its easy to break the stock ones. Removing stock wires and plugs most time consuming part IMO.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
I used the bolts that came with the kooks, and I had horrible luck with OEm gaskets. I bought Felpro gaskets from autozone and they finally sealed after 3 sets of other gaskets.
Put new plugs in it while your there. And just be easy ont he wires they shouldnt need to be replaced. Hell I had mine on and off abotu 12 times over the 3 years I had it from swapping plugs for spray and never once broke one.
Put new plugs in it while your there. And just be easy ont he wires they shouldnt need to be replaced. Hell I had mine on and off abotu 12 times over the 3 years I had it from swapping plugs for spray and never once broke one.
#5
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good advice, guys. I've always used OEM gaskets, so I went with it. As far as studs/bolts, I wanted to see how often they snap. Seems like most guys didn't have any issues using the stockers.
Some threads that I found helpful:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...ers/index.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...headers-d.html
Some threads that I found helpful:
http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...ers/index.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...headers-d.html
Last edited by dudesweet; 04-29-2012 at 02:38 PM.
#7
TECH Regular
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Cypress TX
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I always use anti seize on the stock bolts and oem gaskets. Use a torque wrench, its a bitch to get it on all the bolts, but I think its key in preventing exhaust leaks.
Yes, i know anti seize skews TQ readings.
Yes, i know anti seize skews TQ readings.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Definitely thinking about it...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-v1-poll.html
Leaning toward the RevShift since there are two options, and they generally make good products.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-v1-poll.html
Leaning toward the RevShift since there are two options, and they generally make good products.
#10
i reused the OEM gasket and OEM bolts.
DEF do the mounts while the headers are off. dont make my mistake assuming OEM warrantied replacement would be good for a few years.. the lasted all of 6 months
Who has actually installed the rev shift mounts?. any threads out yet
Definitely thinking about it...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-v1-poll.html
Leaning toward the RevShift since there are two options, and they generally make good products.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/cadillac-...s-v1-poll.html
Leaning toward the RevShift since there are two options, and they generally make good products.
Who has actually installed the rev shift mounts?. any threads out yet
#13
I've never had a prob with OEM gaskets.
Definitely do the MM's while the headers are off. I'm putting the RevTech's in next weekend. They look and feel legit. Plus I feel like the Bimmer guys.....I'm getting rid of the UUC's and going RevShift.
I would get new header bolts also.
Definitely do the MM's while the headers are off. I'm putting the RevTech's in next weekend. They look and feel legit. Plus I feel like the Bimmer guys.....I'm getting rid of the UUC's and going RevShift.
I would get new header bolts also.
#14
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
If you are going to become a "mod junkie", I would suggest ARP studs and nuts.
You don't want to be screwing and unscrewing bolts into the head.
I have had the headers on and off my car so many freaking times I have lost count.
However, replacing a 12 point ARP nut is not cheap, and they do seem to "rattle" loose.
I am now using some locking nuts.
You don't want to be screwing and unscrewing bolts into the head.
I have had the headers on and off my car so many freaking times I have lost count.
However, replacing a 12 point ARP nut is not cheap, and they do seem to "rattle" loose.
I am now using some locking nuts.
#15
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Makes sense. I don't anticipate taking them off ever again. I'm doing headers, intake manifold, and that's it. Saving the $ for a V2, but want to have a little fun while I've got the V1.
#16
TECH Enthusiast
If the kooks didn't come with hardware (which they should) then get new stuff. I too had a stock bolt broken off before we ever touched it. Mine, however, was the rear drivers side. We had to use two nuts on it to back it out.
Oh and maybe this is a given but don't waste time trying to remove the stock cats from the manifolds as they will slide right out together. We were following a write-up I found online that told us to. After fighting a stuck nut forever on the passenger side we figured it was worth a shot. Pissed doesn't even begin to describe how we felt when it all fell right out lol.
Oh and maybe this is a given but don't waste time trying to remove the stock cats from the manifolds as they will slide right out together. We were following a write-up I found online that told us to. After fighting a stuck nut forever on the passenger side we figured it was worth a shot. Pissed doesn't even begin to describe how we felt when it all fell right out lol.
#17
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im pretty sure it did come with some hardware. And thanks for sharing the experience. One of the write-ups I read does exactly that...remove the two together, which I have to do anyway.
Just picked up some NGK TR55IX plugs. Pretty sure I'll pick up a new set of OEM wires unless anyone knows of something better...and not super pricey.
Just picked up some NGK TR55IX plugs. Pretty sure I'll pick up a new set of OEM wires unless anyone knows of something better...and not super pricey.
#18
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Most headers don't have a 2nd port for the rear O2 sensors. Most tuners running EFI Live or HP Tuners will be able to turn off the rear O2's so you don't get a CEL.
#20
We put that exact same set up on my son's V...with the Corsa exhaust. I would have sworn Kooks sends new MLS gaskets with it. They did send bolts, but I believe we were happier with the factory bolts. Either that, or I ran down to the fastener store and bought new flanged bolts. Can't remember...too many sets of headers ago...
By the way, be sure and use anti seize on ALL the bolts. You want to be able to take it back apart some day. I always tighten everything, run the car to temp and retighten hot. Then let it cool and tighten again. Do that a couple of times...then check them again after about 500 miles. I have never, ever had one come loose after using that sequence...and that's with anti seize.
By the way, be sure and use anti seize on ALL the bolts. You want to be able to take it back apart some day. I always tighten everything, run the car to temp and retighten hot. Then let it cool and tighten again. Do that a couple of times...then check them again after about 500 miles. I have never, ever had one come loose after using that sequence...and that's with anti seize.